Welding road block
I have a Millermatic 140 115V an i have a road block when im welding. I can only weld only about an inch down an then the breaker kicks. Now im extreamly stupid with wire's an eletric crap but wanted to know what do i need to not have the breaker kick anymore?
Last edited by Blackcatn2o; Jan 23, 2009 at 02:54 PM. Reason: damn spelling
Over heating the circuit causing the breaker to pop, pick up the maunal over at www.millerwelds.com , see what the requirements are.
my lincoln precision 185 says 50A breaker in the manual
depending on the gauge of wire in the wall you might just be able to upgrade the breaker, cuz some contractors just throw in what theyve got
depending on the gauge of wire in the wall you might just be able to upgrade the breaker, cuz some contractors just throw in what theyve got
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I have seen 25 amp breakers a very long time ago but 20amp is the largest in that voltage you will find. But you cant just get a larger breaker you have to get wire that can handle the amperage that the breaker is set for. I believe you need at least 12 gauge wire for a 20 amp circuit.
OK. With that being said, as breakers get old they become weaker and trip at less than 80% of their faceplate, which is where they are designed to trip with continuous use.
You have stated this is a 120V machine, so i can tell you if your running this on a normal outlet, the machine is NOT going to be 30A, but 120V 30A outlets do exist.
Basically, you machine IS 15amp 120volt, i can tell you this by understanding your plugging it into a normal outlet, if it was 20amp the cord would not be 2 vertical prongs with a ground pin, it would be a vertical and a horizontal. However, they do make a combination outlet, which is called a 15/20amp 'T'Slot Receptacle. Which needs to be wired with #12AWG wire, and uses a 20amp breaker.
However.. You can just replace your current receptacle with a Tslot 15/20, shut off the power first, and the silver screw gets the white or identified conductor, and the brass screw gets the identified or black conductor. You probably just have 14AWG wire now which according to our code book is only good for 15amps.. However, you will be fine running up to ~16amps though it (Over current devices are designed to trip and/or break down if run past %80 of their faceplate for continuous time). Welding typically isn't a continuous load.. Your welder dosent run for 4 hours straight, on/off etc.. pulsing almost.
I know im telling you to do something illegal, which is use #14awg wire on a 20amp breaker, but trust me it will be fine, unless its easy to replace the wire and you feel ambious than you could. Over in Europe, everything is plastic in their electrical rooms, and they have higher ampacity ratings than us for the same size conductors IE. #14 wire is good for 20amps, #12 wire is good for 30amps and #10 is good for 40amps.. seems weird wiring a stove with #10. Our electrical rooms cost 10x more and are built tough enough to drive a tank though.. Sadly enough our injury rate is probably higher than theirs.
Anyways.
If you have any other specific questions, feel free to PM me if i don't reply to the thread.
I have seen 25 amp breakers a very long time ago but 20amp is the largest in that voltage you will find. But you cant just get a larger breaker you have to get wire that can handle the amperage that the breaker is set for. I believe you need at least 12 gauge wire for a 20 amp circuit.
You would never see larger than a 20amp breaker in a typical residential application, at least not in a single pole.
However, 120V to ground, they do have breakers up to 500amps.
Maybe you had a dream about a 25amp breaker? They don't exist on this planet.. Well atleast not in Canada.
You would never see larger than a 20amp breaker in a typical residential application, at least not in a single pole.
However, 120V to ground, they do have breakers up to 500amps.
You would never see larger than a 20amp breaker in a typical residential application, at least not in a single pole.
However, 120V to ground, they do have breakers up to 500amps.

http://cgi.ebay.com/SQUARE-D-25-AMP-...21154003r20797
i'm sorry i didn't read the whole post
i thought you were talking about a 225v tig
i've got a 30 amp breaker on a dedicated line going to a single outlett in my garage
ive got a cornwell 115v mig (same as a miller tink its a 130A) and i've never had a problem with it
Nope I didnt dream it dude. It may not be practical in a residential setting but there are 25 amp single pole(120v) breakers
http://cgi.ebay.com/SQUARE-D-25-AMP-...21154003r20797
http://cgi.ebay.com/SQUARE-D-25-AMP-...21154003r20797
Nope I didnt dream it dude. It may not be practical in a residential setting but there are 25 amp single pole(120v) breakers
http://cgi.ebay.com/SQUARE-D-25-AMP-120%2F240V--SINGLE-POLE-CIRCUIT-BREAKER_W0QQitemZ250360719545QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ 20090121?IMSfp=TL090121154003r20797
So all i need is this an it will cure my problem?
Having a professional electrician do the job wouldnt be a bad idea, atleast you wont have any electricity related fires...
I have 3x 16A breakers on my 3 phase 380V tig... each for one phase. For my 220V mig I use 16A breakers.
I have 3x 16A breakers on my 3 phase 380V tig... each for one phase. For my 220V mig I use 16A breakers.
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