Sorry to double post, but it was on the bottom of the 3rd page in tech, and no responses so i decide to come here. sorry!

This is the set up I’m thinking of doing, but I’m not sure if this set up will perform well or worth the money and effort. This will all be going into a 94 teg 2 door, daily driver. This is with an si tranny with 7.5lb flywheel. I will be doing most of the work by myself with firends.
Items I have or donated to me:
b18b with 103000 km
b16a2 head
b16a2 cams
b16a2 intake manifold
b18b ls rods with b16a2 pistons
b16a2 ecu
62mm LS throttle Body

Items I will buy
ARP Rod Bolts
ARP Head Bolts
ACL Engine Bearings
GSR Girdle

Should I buy Rods also, and put them with the b16a2 pistons? If so, which are the cheapest ones but still good? I heard something like wiesco?

No, I'm not boring or resleeving for the time being.

These items I have already or will be given to me. My friend was going to put a b16a2 head on his gsr, but later decide not too… He went turbo and called it a day (maybe I should do that too).

Well anyways, I was deciding whether or not I should just forget this, and either go
1)crv vtec or 2)turbo . The reason I can’t make up my mind is because doing ls/vtec will be a lot cheaper then the other options, but I believe the other options will provide a whole lot more power right?

I already own the b18b, and I have all the parts needed to do ls vtec, but if I do CRV Vtec or turbo, I’ll need to spend a lot more right? Its like spending 400 (w/o the rods) and have ls/vtec vs $2000+ for the other 2 options…

Well what do you guys think of that set up? Its like an OEM ls/vtec, and I read some guy in the classifieds is running pretty fast.

1)Well enough, rambling but what do you guys think of that set up?
2)How fast in the quartermile will that get me in a 94 teg?
3)Should I get rods and put it with the b16a2 pistons?
4)Do you think I’ll be happy with this set up? (i just want somethign faster then
5)what I have now, I'll be happy if this gets into high 13's, this has to be daily driver)
6)Is there anything that I should add or change to this set up?
7)Will this car work on pump gas?
8)Will this car pass smog (smog only, not visual)?
9)Will my 62 mm ported throttle body work with the b16a2 manifold?
10)I dont need a obdII-obdI harness do I?
11)Will everything plug straight up?
12)Is this a decent set up, and will be a reliable one? (assuming it is assembled properly)
13)suggestions?


And my budget, isn’t great, because I’m going to a new college in September, and I’m not sure how much more books and tuition will cost, so assume the avg joe saved up money budget…

Thank you for all your time my fellow ht members, and thanks to those who have helped me already…
Shamoo
Brothaboost (I forgot your exact nick) but you convinced me to get the girdle
Rocket
Just to name a few




[Modified by AzN_Flava, 3:26 AM 8/7/2002]

 

i would say do the best you can with what you got. finish getting what you need in order to put the lsvtec setup into your car and go with that for now, it is still going to be pretty nice.
however...
1) i think the "OEM lsvtec" as you called it will be ok
2) *shrugs*
3) you wont be making enough hp to worry about the rods; if you do use the a2 pistons, you will need to get them pressed onto rods
4) compared to stock ls...yes
5) 13's...?; daily driven...no problems with that
6) assuming this is for na, i would think about ctr cams and pistons, itr/gsr h20 pump & tb, itr/gsr oil pump; do you have your vtec plumbing and pcv stuff?
7) yes, no problem
8) *shrug*...i dont have to worry about smog tests where i live
9) ?
10) you are not using any obd2 components so no
11) if it is all obd1 then yes it should
12) should be reliable if you take care of it
13) as i have mentioned above
these are just my thoughts. i am not a professional.
next time you might want to shorten your post cause other ppl might not have the time to answer a big question. also, spread your questions over several different posts too that way ppl dont have so many options at once...i am just suggesting, it might help you get answers next time. good luck

P.S. if i have said something wrong, there will be flamers in here to correct me and that should get you more replies

 

jeff,

When yo say vtec plumbing and PCV stuff, what do you mean by that?

 

i am talking about the misc parts you need to get oil to a vtec head on a nonvtec block (earls fittings, steel braided hose, and brass plug
the pcv system on an ls motor uses a pcv valve on the valve cover, when you put a vtec head on the vtec block you loose the pvc valve hole so you have to rig up a pcv system for the ls/b20vtec setup. endyn sells a kit to do this but i pieced mine together.

 

thanks for the reply!
How do you do that?

 

read this...
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=237160
there are several threads on this in the archives too
i basically pieced together a kit like endyn's

 

thanks jeff

 

Thanks a lot Jeff, I really appreciate your input. I'm going to just work with what i have... it is the most affordable route for me.
thanks,
about how much hp should i start to worry about needing aftermarket rods?
as for the obd2 components. would the ecu, cams, head, pistons count as obd2? these are b16a2 parts from the year of i think was it 96-97...

Thank you for your time it has helped me make my decision...


[Modified by AzN_Flava, 10:01 PM 8/7/2002]

 

as far as rods...i have not heard a hp that stock rods can not handle so i cant give you an exact hp. i would make that part of your next list mods, definately before forced induction and if you have to tear down the block, say for new rings, that is another time when i would invest in rods, but not tight now.
as far as obd2 components...when you say b16a2 is that the SIRII (jdm) motor. if so, i am not exactly sure on jdm motors but that motor might be obd1 (92-95). however, the obd differences would be ecu, distributor and o2 sensor (the electronics not mechanical stuff)...at least that is the differences between obd0 and obd1 that i am dealing with right now.
no problem...it is easier to help other ppl make their decisions.

 

You have a pretty good list going... I'd stay with the LSVT setup you have planned.

You prolly won't be able to fit aftermarket rods on the honda pistons because of the wrist pin design, so just get the stockers shot peened and high speed balance the rotating assembly (pistons,rods,crank,fly, Press Plate and crank pulley) It really helps in an LSVT.... When I am an 7+, you can't tell w/o hearing the motor scream.

You'll also want to add:

a B20/GSR oil pump
ARP rod bolts <-------You NEED this
V-afc... this will REALLY help in tuning in the car.
You will also need a B16 or GSR distributor with an OBD2 connector to hook into your LS harness... the LS distributor will only work if you cut it.... which is never too good for placement.

X2

 

have you ever heard about anybody having problems with using stock head bolts on a frank motor? the reason i ask is because this is one of the only things that i am not doing to my motor and i kinda feel guilty...but it is still not too late.
his car is a 94 so it is obd1...so he shouldnt have to do this...right?

 

Stock headbolts will work fine. Just use "new" headbolts. Most of the time they are replaced with ARP studs because someone had the extra cash to buy them or they are turbocharging and spare no expense towards cylinder sealing.

If the car is a 94 it is OBD1 and the LS dist. would work after removing the leg that interfears with the Vtec solenoid. I have heard that an OBD2 Vtec distributor can be re-plugged to work with a OBD1 harness.....I have not seen this first hand so I can't be certain. I'd use the LS dist. until you save up enough to buy a OBD1 Vtec dist. if it bothered you that much.

AzN_Flava-->
Using a girdle in your set-up is fine. But it will be a waste if you don't do it correctly. It should be doweled to your main caps and the main bore alignment should be checked with the girdle installed/torqued in place. Otherwise you are wasting your time.

Add a Vtec water pump, Vtec timing belt, and a new B20/ITR?GSR oil pump to your list. Obviously a cylinder hone and new rings as well.

I'd think about your transmission choice. The Si trans has ratios similar to the ITR and will equate into some high revs during freeway cruzing speeds. Continous high revs = bad for LSVT such as you listed. I feel better going with a GSR trans instead.

1)Well enough, rambling but what do you guys think of that set up?
its a good start, you have put more thought into it than most people who have asked about LSVtecs lately, Good Job
2)How fast in the quartermile will that get me in a 94 teg?
Sorry, I never guessemate 1/4 mile times
3)Should I get rods and put it with the b16a2 pistons?
with aftermarket rods you will need pistons that use pin retaining clips, might as well buy forged pistons then. I think you will be fine using what you have as long as you replace the rod bolts and keep the revs reasonable.
4)Do you think I’ll be happy with this set up? (i just want somethign faster then what I have now, I'll be happy if this gets into high 13's, this has to be daily driver)
having a engine project come together by your own hands and work well.....yea I think you will be more than happy
6)Is there anything that I should add or change to this set up?
see above
7)Will this car work on pump gas?
yes, stick to premium higher octane rating fuel though
8)Will this car pass smog (smog only, not visual)?
Donno, I am not required to smog check, I can't give any input there
9)Will my 62 mm ported throttle body work with the b16a2 manifold?
I believe so, a GSR throttle body is another good alternative if you are worried
10)I dont need a obdII-obdI harness do I?
I don't believe so
11)Will everything plug straight up?
it won't vary much more than a usual B series swap, some minor alterations
12)Is this a decent set up, and will be a reliable one? (assuming it is assembled properly)
probably so, as long as you build correctly and keep the revs reasonable.
13)suggestions?
see above

Good luck on your project


[Modified by SLPR, 2:49 PM 8/8/2002]

 

You don't need arp head studs unless you go high compression or FI. You do, however, need to upgrade the rod bolts to ARP.
No, head studs are not NEEDED, they would be nice, but ROD BOLTS are more of a MUST.... YOU MUST USE ARP ROD BOLTS.... the stockers will give way at 7-8K rpm.

Your stock LS distributor can work if you hack off the leg as some say... but I personally wouldn't do that.... just yet another thing that would be prone to leaks. The internals of the obd I LS distributor will work, yes.... you can also purchase a distr. from an OBDI vtec car... not cheap, but from research I have done... the ICM in the vtec distributor is different from the non vtec, so the LS distr will work, but might kick out early, or give you erratic tach readings. But a number of other LSVT setups do this (LS distr.) Personally, my choice was to use the B16 housing on my B16 head with B16 distr. internals aside from the stator.

X2