Engine building Questions
I'm building up a D15b7.
Head: stage 3 exospeeds cam, supertech valve springs, si valves, port&polish.
Bottom end: APR head studs&rod bolts, acl bearings, MABY stock rods i don't know(ppl say that that stock D rods can be spun with no problem to 8,500rpms, then theres ppl that break them all the time) and p29 pistons.
another question is that will a stock crank do? im not wanting to hold my breath every time i get on it. I wanna feel comfortable going to 7,500rpms. I never hear of any one swaping out there cranks for something better...any suggestions would be appreciated. And yes i searched......
Head: stage 3 exospeeds cam, supertech valve springs, si valves, port&polish.
Bottom end: APR head studs&rod bolts, acl bearings, MABY stock rods i don't know(ppl say that that stock D rods can be spun with no problem to 8,500rpms, then theres ppl that break them all the time) and p29 pistons.
another question is that will a stock crank do? im not wanting to hold my breath every time i get on it. I wanna feel comfortable going to 7,500rpms. I never hear of any one swaping out there cranks for something better...any suggestions would be appreciated. And yes i searched......
Last edited by hondaluver12; Jan 22, 2009 at 05:52 PM.
You do not want the stock rods in there if you plan on revving over stock redline. definitely go with something that is h-beam and/or forged. i was reading the other day if you widen the crank journals you can run b18a/b ls rods and that would also suffice. you have to have wrist pin bushings as well though to accomodate d-series pistons. kind of a pain in the dick compared to just getting aftermarket stronger d-series parts, but it is an option none the less.
ninja edit: here's the thread talking about using ls rods on the d-crank.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/ls-connecting-rods-d16-2420829/
ninja edit: here's the thread talking about using ls rods on the d-crank.
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-crx-ef-civic-1988-1991-3/ls-connecting-rods-d16-2420829/
true. sorry i didn't catch that. i knew the stroke was different to cause the 0.1L increase but i didn't realize the rod/crank journal widths are different between the two. in which case just go with aftermarket stronger d15 compatible rods. or since the price of a d16 bottom end isn't exactly expensive, you could always pick one of them up.
Do you know where too find any aftermarket rods for a d15? All the rods ive found was only for d16's.... and you think i would need to have the crank balanced?
they dont make them, crower use to but stopped because not much demand for them, the stock rods will be fine for what your doing, the motor prolly wont make power up to 8500 maybe 8k but still i wouldnt worry i would just change the rod bolts out for arp's or new honda ones. Im almost positive you cant use the p29's in a d15, i cant remember why off the top of my head its been awhile but ill have to look it up and get back to you. You may be better off using a d16 block, or you can stick the 1.5 and just mill the head a bunch to raise compression.
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they dont make them, crower use to but stopped because not much demand for them, the stock rods will be fine for what your doing, the motor prolly wont make power up to 8500 maybe 8k but still i wouldnt worry i would just change the rod bolts out for arp's or new honda ones. Im almost positive you cant use the p29's in a d15, i cant remember why off the top of my head its been awhile but ill have to look it up and get back to you. You may be better off using a d16 block, or you can stick the 1.5 and just mill the head a bunch to raise compression.
The arp's are worth the extra insurance there what only $60 and yes they can handle it much better then the possibly stretched stockers, The D15's actually rev better then the d16's because of the shorter stroke and better rod/stroke ratio, I think the p29's sit to low in a d15, Have you installed them yet? I'd like to see them in there but im almost positive there gonna sit to low in the bore, but lmk.
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