I am getting ready to do a put an H22a motor in my 1989 CRX si (ED9) once i replace the crankshaft and rods and change all the seals and look it over but i have alot of questions that i need answers to in order to help me with the swap.

First off, if anyone can direct me to a really detailed thread with pictures of the swap being done that would be extremely helpful and save me some time and troubles hopefully, but so far all i know i am getting for sure is the motor in running condition, ESP H22 EF mounts with the traction bar system, and rywire to make me a good motor harness ....

1) what transmission is suggested for the swap?

2) do i have to get custom axles made?

3) What ECU do i need and do i need to get hondata or anything or just leave the ECU unchipped?

4) what fabrication do i need to inticipate on, like exactly because i keep hearing different things?

5) what suspension is suggested to hold that motor and oil pan off of the ground, i am wanting some D2's for now, will they do the job?

Please feel free to make any suggestions if you think the parts im considering are not adequate for the swap or if you believe i have overlooked a crucial part of the swap and its possible i left out vidal questions so i beg that you all tell me anything and everything you can.

 

There is a some good info if the search is working. If not use google, Explicit speed has a good write up. I suggest going and searching out some detailed info for yourself it will be more valuable that way. Only you know what details you are looking for.

 

true true, and i have been looking into it, but i want more peoples suggestions incase they found something better, easier, more simple, more power, or more cost efficient than just checking ESPs write up, i have glanced over it but haven't really had a lot of time to sit down and check the whole thing out. i was hoping that people could just give me quick simple feedback, because when i do research ill find one place that said one thing and another place that said another thing so idk what to do

 

Very worth it, look for a H22 trans, preferrably one with a LSD. I had a M2B4 trans on mine, non LSD, but great gear ratios. As far as ECU's, I would use a OBD1 GSR ECU. It will enable you to continue to use your IAB's, but will virtually eliminate the EGR. Make sure you keep your resistor box, too.

 

use a b-series lol h is junk.... and heres some info that might help.....
HONDA EF 88-91 H-SERIES SWAP INFORMTION

(IF YOU UES THE H-SERIES TRANSMISSION) (Axles use)
if you the h-series tansmission you have to use the 1989 Integra axles whit the drivers side innter cv swapped out whit the Prelude one to make ues of the Prelude I.S. only no the drivers side

( ADAPTER PLATE FOR THE H-SERIES TO B-SERIES)
if you can find one or make one.
you can use b-series mount's on the transmission

(Wiring ) you can use the hasport converion guide from O.B.D.0 to O.B.D.1 you can use the stock CRX si hariess.most of theplugs work on the h22 whit the exception of some of the sensors which were all rewired to the newer O.B.D.1 plugs .the ecu was all hardwired . so im tell you that the hardest part of this swap is going to be the WIRING.at lest four me i suck at wiring

(ECU)
you can use p13,p28

( FRONT CROSS MEMBER)
you have to get a front cross member you can get a place racing one or jim fab will work as well.

( MOTOR MOUNT'S)
you have to make comtostom mount's or get some hasport mounts

(CLUTCH CABLE )
you have to make a bracket and use the stock ef clutch cable

(comtostom cuting work that has to be done)
you have cut the frame near the crank pulley and the tranny side .
you have to cut the left headlight bracket to give the alternator clearance
and run a smaller belt .

(STRUT FORKS)
you have to swap the strut forks from side to side to give the axles more clearance .
it makes about 1/2 "of more room

(shiftter assembly and cabless)
same as doing it in an eg/ek

(the driver side tie bar)
the front lower cross member to the lower control arm
you just heat it up and bend it

 

i dont have to make custom motor mount or make a bracket for the clutch cable or cut the left headlight bracket because ESP makes the whole package with all of the relocation brackets made already and i can get it with the TBS which replaces the front cross member. I'm just gonna get Rywire to make me a "race" harness so its cleaner and i dont have the messy stock harness with useless old plugs hangin everywhere, and a friend of mine already talked to them about it so thats taken care of and so are the mounts i guess enless somebody knows of something better.

but i want to know more about which transmission, axles, and ecu i SHOULD use. b16, b18, h22, h23 tranny, p13 p28 or what kind of ECU, which axles

 

H22A trans usdm or jdm gears are same. p13 for start up or if going to dyno tuner asap p28 crome/ectune and a knowledgable tuner.

There are a few tuners on here that will sell you the ecu/crome or ectune h22 basemap all ready to go for under $150. p0 ecu's work as long as 4 wire o2 is added and vtec which they all seem to know how to add on here.

 

I am using a jdm h22 tranny that came with the engine (with lsd).
You can use a accord trans or use the b series plate. I like the prelude trans with the lsd, the ratios are good to keep it in vtech, so thats what I would reccomend. I bought the upgraded hasport axles because I wanted no problems with them breaking.

I am using the stock ecu (p28) but you would be better off gettin one chipped with either crome or a hondata setup (yea $$ I know) but having it shut off at 120 is a real pain as well as having to mess with the EGR system (unless you need it to pass smog).

The hasport kit is worth every penny and the manual to hydro portion is a really slick unit. With any kit you will need to have the car up in the air and pull the engine in and out a few times to get the clearences correct. Its a lot of work doing this swap but sooooo worth it.

 

You're right about that

The b series trans setup would be the way to go but that would put the h very very high in the engine bay.

Run a chipped p28 setup, get it tuned to get the most out of it.

 

I went h2b with mine. Which ever you decide to go with h22 or h2b be ready to have the motor in and out a lot. Lots of measuring for welding and cutting depending which you choose. That is how high my motor sticks above the fender with a qsd kit.

 

Holy crap thats sticking way up there!!!
My intake isnt even near the hood...just the front of the valve cover needs clearance.

 

That was the only way i could get a hood on it. I have got more crap for that hood then anything else in my life but it was that or nothing. Didnt want to cut my valve cover down

 

well im not doing an H2B swap so thats irrelevant in my opinion..... i got a whole bottom end with a good crank, good pistons, good rods, an exedy clutch and some other goodies yesterday for free from a friend and he is hookin me up with the P28 ECU and imma run s300 Hondata on it

so hasport makes axles for the swap? are they the only ones?

and where can i find a new single pully crank pully so i dont have a messed up lookin one that i had to cut the AC belt pully off of

 

lol i've heard its either the engine stiks out of the top or almost drags the bottom.....

 

some of my friends keep tellin me thatll be fine , just get it as low as i can so i dont haveto cut the hood but as high as i can for clearence and then just get a really nice stiff set of coilovers and do all my suspension work and it should be an alright all-motor track car...so imma give it a shot

 

from the pics over Explicit Speed, you shouldn't have any problems with clearance under the hood or under the car...

http://explicitspeedperformance.net/MyH22ACrxHF.html

 

that **** is ugly.
thats why u stay b series

 

b series is too common for me, i think....but you do what you want to do dude, im asking for answers about the h swap NOT a b swap

i checked out the explicit speed performance site again about their swap, im not worried about the motor clearing the hood or sitting to low anymore, ill deal with whatever comes i guess but i see they used a ESP front strut bar, will my password jdm strut bar still fit?

 

Because a H will tear a B apart. My car was build for drag racing so of coarse im not going to want a B

 

The esp kit from what I have seen is a top notch kit. He lists what you need to do for axles on there as well. 86-89 teggy axle needs to be cut down but raxles can do it for you. As for the pulley I had to have mine turned down my a shop.

 

o alright, well i might just get axles from hasport to handle a little more power anyway but thats undecided....so i have to machine the pully, nobody just makes a pully for the swap?

 

and what about my front strut bar question? anyone know?

 

dont listen to this jack off...first of all m2b4 trannys have LSD and Second you cant use a factory P72 to run an H22a...a Stock P72 is for a gsr and for a gsr only. If you want to run the motor stock a P13 would be adequate, or you can run a chipped p28 or chipped p72, you could use a chipped p72 to control the IAB's Just dont remove the honda pcs valves..those are wat control the iab's

 

Drive shaft shop also makes them. Contact me for a price if you need to.

 

If you are using esp's mounts, use whatever axles they recomend. I wouldnt use hasport axles because their axles are made for their mounts, esp and hasport position the motor in different spots, therefore you might run into some binding issues. If you are using esp's mounts, just contact them, they will help you with what you need exactly rather than using people's opinion on "what they have heard".