So I decided I NEED a turbo on my S. On a budget, my option was 1. buy a used Full Race manifold for around 1000. 2. Buy an IP manifold. But with the high flowing design of the s2000 head, power would suffer compared to a manifold with a decent collector. 3. Buy a spare engine to mock up on, and put my $4000 workshop to use. I think option 3 is best

So I Just threw in a few hours today.....almost finished fitting everything.
I ran out of Argon, so I need to get some more before I continue.
I made it similar to the Full Race design, bottom mounted, requires oil filter relocation.

Here are a couple pics i took real quick with my phone (sorry for quality)








Fitment is not as good as i wanted it, but there are no big gaps anywhere. It just seems that the sch 10 straight pipe I bought is a different OD than the sch 10 bends. So fitment there is slightly off, but not by much.

Still have to figure out a wastegate elbow, would like to have some sort of radius.

Any tips from you guys? I don't have a backpurge setup, I am going to make one within the next day or so before I weld.

 

man i wish i had a option 3 gl with your build

 

Looks good so far. Good luck with it.

 

Awww, top mounts or sidemount mani's are so much cooler on s2000's Looks great so far!

 

looks way better than my first manifold did.

get a stainless or brass wire wheel for your bench grinder (if you have one) and clean the piping before you tack everything together. it will help with cleaner welds and it will look nice and shiny too.

also, i weld the collector up before i tack anything together. it is a lot easier to weld without 4 elbows coming out of the top of it.

 

I only have a carbon wheel now, and a stainless hand brush. I was going to brush and wipe down with acetone before i welded it up.
I also wanted to get everything fitted, then I was planning on breaking it apart so I had just the collector welded to the flange, and then each individual runner. I was planning on welding everythin seperate, but only small amounts at a time allowing the piece to cool so it won't move (warp)
You can see I welded part of the collector, I started to run low on Gas and didn't want to have contamination in the welds.
The damn 80 CF bottle runs out too fast, I don't even have the gas set that high (around 20) I think I'm going to bite the bullet and rent a large tank from my LWS. I think they said $80 a year, 112 to fill it (300CF, straight argon)

Also, do you guys use seperate flow meters for your backpurge setup? If not, How are you controlling how much gas goes to the gun, and how much to the purge line?

 

Ohh yeah, one more thing. The ports on the s2000 exhaust flange are a bit larger than the sch 10 pipe. And they are not circular, more of an ellipse. What do you guys do about that? Do you crush the pipe to fit somehow, or do you just fill the gap with filler, then weld inside the ports from the backside of the flange?

 

You NEVER want the header opening to be smaller than the head opening. The other way around isnt too bad, but with the header smaller, youll lose tons of flow, and it will cause some weird turbulence in the primary tube.
Oval the header tube, and open up the header flange if you have to.

Kyle

 

i think you missed what he was trying to say kyle... the exhaust ports on the flange are LARGER than those on the head... the flange is size for size with the gasket.

i just squeeze them in a vise a bit to oval them. it shouldn't take much effort.

here is a budget back purge writeup:
http://www.homemadeturbo.com/forum/i...?topic=76877.0

 

Aaron, I think kyle got it. The headed tube is smaller than the head flange opening, so it is most likely smAller than the exhaust port.
I will try crushing it slightly in the vice to see how that turns out.

And I am still concerned that the backpurge will steal gas flow from the torch, but that looks like a nice cheap solution to buying another regulator.

 

my best guess would be to center the runner and fill the gap with filler? many manifold builders put a gap between their joints..

 

One thing that Full-Race improved on is clearance in installing the manifold. "RZProStreet" has been taking care of most of my turbo build, and he has my Full-Race manifold as well as another Full-Race S2000 at his shop right now. Instead of having the runners run straight down, they are actually "clocked" so that there is more clearance from the frame rails and you don't have to "notch" it like most other people do when they install the full-race kit.

 

so how many bends did you buy? and how many feet of straight? just wondering. i like the design alot man

 

Well my turbo isn't huge like some of the other turbos out there. I have to pull the header off my car and make sure the manifold/turbo fits in.


I forget how many bends I ordered, I bought a lot so I could build another manifold also. Didn't start the second one yet.

 

seems like the the turbo faces at a weird angel? like the downpipe would be aimed towards the frame rail? any pics of it in the car?

 

That's the way the turbo sits on the FR manifold. I wanted the compressor as close to the block as possible so I don't have to dent the frame.

 

Updates? Post some new pics! I'm doing the sAme with mine in a few weeks.. What are u using for e/m?

 

anything yet? plz tell me you finished already...

 

in for pics

 

havent had time to work on it, i didnt even finish the last runner yet. soon soon dont worry :D