ball join and tie rod replacement
Well, my ball joints and tie rod ends are not exactly happy so i thought i would replace them while i had my suspension all apart. My ? would be what brand is worth getting that is not honda? Im trying to not spend a **** load of money to get my car back on the road for now and i want to get something that will hold up for a pretty good while. any sugestions?
-thanks for the help
-thanks for the help
i only recommend OEM.
maybe you can get the same quality directly as aftermarket. but i wouldnt know. i hear those ebay full kits wear out quickly. shrug.
maybe you can get the same quality directly as aftermarket. but i wouldnt know. i hear those ebay full kits wear out quickly. shrug.
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Don't buy the Ebay ones they suck. I tried them and the rubber boots ripped after 3 months. And you should not buy cheap brands for your suspension. Do it right and it will save you a lot of headaches later on.
gotcha, just thought i would see what peoples opinions on everything were before i bought my parts. i know oem honda is the best but ive allready spent 1k on suspension parts to put on my 500$ turd so im just trying to save a buck to get my dd project car back on the road for a little while
i wouldnt skimp out on buying OEM parts.
maybe its just me, but i were to spend $1000, i would not have an issue spending more money on the best quality replacement parts for vital functions of my car, far before buying anything aftermarket like swaybars or whatever else youve been asking about lately.
maybe its just me, but i were to spend $1000, i would not have an issue spending more money on the best quality replacement parts for vital functions of my car, far before buying anything aftermarket like swaybars or whatever else youve been asking about lately.
starting to run out of money after i already purchased everything is my only problem. got alot of the stuff ive been asking about because all of my other "upgrades" were pretty much replacements for the crap that has gone bad on my 274k mile car except the rear sway bar that was a christmas present. thats pretty much why im asking.
skunk 2 front and rear camber kit- $330
oem replacement for the same parts- $297.11 (within a dollar or so)
m factory shifter- $99.95
to replace oem shifter-$73.75 (yes my stock shifter wore out to the point i could move it to where it looked like it was in 5th when it was in 1st)
see what i mean?
skunk 2 front and rear camber kit- $330
oem replacement for the same parts- $297.11 (within a dollar or so)
m factory shifter- $99.95
to replace oem shifter-$73.75 (yes my stock shifter wore out to the point i could move it to where it looked like it was in 5th when it was in 1st)
see what i mean?
Last edited by specialized108; Jan 21, 2009 at 01:16 PM.
I got an ebay upper control arm with balljoint and it squealed like a pig. Im not sure if it was the bushings or the balljoint but either way it was money wasted.
I would recommend Napa. They seem like a good compromise between cost and quality. I got some new tie rod ends a couple of years ago and they are holding up well.
I would recommend Napa. They seem like a good compromise between cost and quality. I got some new tie rod ends a couple of years ago and they are holding up well.
starting to run out of money after i already purchased everything is my only problem. got alot of the stuff ive been asking about because all of my other "upgrades" were pretty much replacements for the crap that has gone bad on my 274k mile car except the rear sway bar that was a christmas present. thats pretty much why im asking.
skunk 2 front and rear camber kit- $330
oem replacement for the same parts- $297.11 (within a dollar or so)
m factory shifter- $99.95
to replace oem shifter-$73.75 (yes my stock shifter wore out to the point i could move it to where it looked like it was in 5th when it was in 1st)
see what i mean?
skunk 2 front and rear camber kit- $330
oem replacement for the same parts- $297.11 (within a dollar or so)
m factory shifter- $99.95
to replace oem shifter-$73.75 (yes my stock shifter wore out to the point i could move it to where it looked like it was in 5th when it was in 1st)
see what i mean?
you didnt need a camber kit. you just needed a new balljoint for the front upper. would have come complete as well.
you didnt need to spend money on a hole shifter, if it was just the bushings in the bottom that needed replacing.
noobs make mistakes in buying. i bought a few things i completely regret early on.
but im just saying dont skimp on whats more important now.
starting to run out of money after i already purchased everything is my only problem. got alot of the stuff ive been asking about because all of my other "upgrades" were pretty much replacements for the crap that has gone bad on my 274k mile car except the rear sway bar that was a christmas present. thats pretty much why im asking.
skunk 2 front and rear camber kit- $330
oem replacement for the same parts- $297.11 (within a dollar or so)
m factory shifter- $99.95
to replace oem shifter-$73.75 (yes my stock shifter wore out to the point i could move it to where it looked like it was in 5th when it was in 1st)
see what i mean?
skunk 2 front and rear camber kit- $330
oem replacement for the same parts- $297.11 (within a dollar or so)
m factory shifter- $99.95
to replace oem shifter-$73.75 (yes my stock shifter wore out to the point i could move it to where it looked like it was in 5th when it was in 1st)
see what i mean?
What are you going to be using this car for?
I would also recommend NAPA parts. I put my lower ball joints on (although i think they were from autozone) about 3 years ago, they have around 10k miles and 50 autocross events (about 300 runs) never had a problem. i replaced outer tie rods with NAPA last spring but one about 3k mi and 13 autocrosses (65 runs) without any problems
i know they switch around mfgers as needed. not just one for each part. but when i order from the dealer, i know im getting the best. sure, go ahead, anyone can debate it. quality can be subjective sometimes. but its a safe bet.
I recently replaced my inner/outer tie rod ends with moog and im very happy with them. especially for the reason stated above. i also bought moog lower ball joints and those seem to be well built as well. as for the upper balljoints, i went to honda for the complete UCA replacements.
we have moog on our racecar. havent driven enough to gauge it.
but repacking the grease is not a big issue... personally, we already had issue with one of the zerk fittings breaking off.
shrug.
but repacking the grease is not a big issue... personally, we already had issue with one of the zerk fittings breaking off.
shrug.
i know its too late now but if money is tight you should have just used the washer trick on the rear for camber correction. also you should have just got ES shifter stabalizers. that would have saved you over $200
What are you going to be using this car for?
I would also recommend NAPA parts. I put my lower ball joints on (although i think they were from autozone) about 3 years ago, they have around 10k miles and 50 autocross events (about 300 runs) never had a problem. i replaced outer tie rods with NAPA last spring but one about 3k mi and 13 autocrosses (65 runs) without any problems
What are you going to be using this car for?
I would also recommend NAPA parts. I put my lower ball joints on (although i think they were from autozone) about 3 years ago, they have around 10k miles and 50 autocross events (about 300 runs) never had a problem. i replaced outer tie rods with NAPA last spring but one about 3k mi and 13 autocrosses (65 runs) without any problems
-i have the energy suspension shift stabilizers and that was not the problem. my stock shifter was metal on metal for a very extreme amount of time, it ovalized the innards of it. so even after the es shift stabilizers it still would have not been any closer than before.
-as far as the rear camber kit, the parts are about the same to replace the parts with Honda as it is to get the camber kit
i guess i would say i will be mainly using this car in heavy daily driving, a lot of mountain and curvys/huge *** pot holes so i wanted to see what peoples opinions on parts were before i bought them
p.s. tyson, why would you spend a huge amount of money to just get oem crap when you can spend an extra $50 to get something a lot better(a.k.a aftermarket) ?
Last edited by specialized108; Jan 21, 2009 at 09:57 PM.
Parts stores don't care if the part fails and you have to spend your own labor time to remove, exchange, and replace it. Honda cares if they have to pay a technician double warranty time and give away free parts twice.
This is why I always look for the OE manufacturer of Honda parts. Sometimes they will re-box the Honda-spec part and sell it under their own brand name at a similar or slightly lower price (i.e. Aisin water pumps, Mitsuboshi and Bando accessory belts, Denso oxygen sensors and alternators, Sanden A/C compressors, etc.).
Very very few aftermarket replacement parts available through retail parts channels are "better" than an OEM Honda part, because they don't have to meet Honda quality and warranty standards.
Parts stores don't care if the part fails and you have to spend your own labor time to remove, exchange, and replace it. Honda cares if they have to pay a technician double warranty time and give away free parts twice.
This is why I always look for the OE manufacturer of Honda parts. Sometimes they will re-box the Honda-spec part and sell it under their own brand name at a similar or slightly lower price (i.e. Aisin water pumps, Mitsuboshi and Bando accessory belts, Denso oxygen sensors and alternators, Sanden A/C compressors, etc.).
Parts stores don't care if the part fails and you have to spend your own labor time to remove, exchange, and replace it. Honda cares if they have to pay a technician double warranty time and give away free parts twice.
This is why I always look for the OE manufacturer of Honda parts. Sometimes they will re-box the Honda-spec part and sell it under their own brand name at a similar or slightly lower price (i.e. Aisin water pumps, Mitsuboshi and Bando accessory belts, Denso oxygen sensors and alternators, Sanden A/C compressors, etc.).



