HELP: I blew a motor, but I do have options...maybe.
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Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Nowhere'sville, No where
First off, i've searched days worth of incomplete threads and half *** posts as a means of trying to answer my own questions. No luck. So here is my own question thread.
I have a rod prob in my 00 GSR and I already have a 91 DA integra with an OBD0 B16 in it. The DA teg is a drag car, and the gsr is my school car. i know the dizzy, oil pump (or I can do the little crank sensor delete trick), and as much of the gsr stuff as possible, will need to be put onto the obd0 B16.
What am I missing here? I am wondering if the OBD0 motor can be made to not **** off the OBD2b GSR ecu. I mean, I think I understand how to disable the secondary throttle blades, and simply be able to use the existing manifold on my b16. I am assuming that my gsr's accessories (i.e., alternator bracket, a/c bracket, etc. will all bolt up to the B16).
This is my first gsr and unfortunately it has a rod problem.
Hey, just let me know.
I have a rod prob in my 00 GSR and I already have a 91 DA integra with an OBD0 B16 in it. The DA teg is a drag car, and the gsr is my school car. i know the dizzy, oil pump (or I can do the little crank sensor delete trick), and as much of the gsr stuff as possible, will need to be put onto the obd0 B16.
What am I missing here? I am wondering if the OBD0 motor can be made to not **** off the OBD2b GSR ecu. I mean, I think I understand how to disable the secondary throttle blades, and simply be able to use the existing manifold on my b16. I am assuming that my gsr's accessories (i.e., alternator bracket, a/c bracket, etc. will all bolt up to the B16).
This is my first gsr and unfortunately it has a rod problem.
Hey, just let me know.
Last edited by integrawow; Jan 19, 2009 at 07:42 PM.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
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From: Nowhere'sville, No where
OBD0 motor into OBD2 car
Method 1
1. Use OBD2-0 ECU adaptor harness with PR3 ECU
2 Use OBD2-0 distributor adaptor harness or swap plugs over from your OBD2 distributor to the OBD0's distributor
3. Add resistor box and solder the OBD0 injector plugs onto the OBD2 harness and use the OBD0 injectors
4. Use OBD0 B16A header and two 1 wire O2 sensors or OBD1/2 header and weld in two O2 bungs
5. If not an EX or Si run wiring for VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch and Knock sensor (you'll have to add knock sensor regardless what model it is)
6. Convert over plug on your OBD0 alternator to the OBD2 style (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/fobtions/alt.jpg)
Method 2
1. Use OBD2-1 ECU adaptor and use P28 chipped, P72 chipped, P30 or P72 for B18C/C1 motors
2. Use an OBD1 B16a or B18C distributor with an OBD2-1 distributor adaptor or convert the plugs from your cars distributor over to the OBD1 distributor
3. Use OBD2 injectors from your vehicle
4. Use a OBD1/2 B16A header
5 If not an EX or Si (99-00) run wiring for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor (you'll have to add knock sensor unless it is an SI).
6. If you have an auto car or a non VTEC model you will have to wire in for a 2 wire IACV as your's is a 3 wire.
7. Convert over plug on your OBD0 alternator to the OBD2 style (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/fobtions/alt.jpg)
Method 3
1. Use an OBD2 ECU P2T from a 99-00 SI
2. Use OBD2 distributor from a B18C1 or B16A2, or an OBD1 dizzy from a B16A/B18C1 either swapping over the plugs or using a dizzy adaptor, can't use OBD0 dizzys on OBD2 ECU's
3. Use the OBD2 injectors from your engine
4. Use an OBD1/2 header
5. If not an EX or Si (99-00) run wiring for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor (you'll have to add knock sensor unless it is an SI).
6. If you have an auto car or a non VTEC model you will have to wire in for a 2 wire IACV as your's is a 3 wire.
7. You'll also need to trick the CKF at the ECU so the ECU won't throw a code (http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/ckftrick.htm)
8. Convert over plug on your OBD0 alternator to the OBD2 style (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/fobtions/alt.jpg)
Method 1
1. Use OBD2-0 ECU adaptor harness with PR3 ECU
2 Use OBD2-0 distributor adaptor harness or swap plugs over from your OBD2 distributor to the OBD0's distributor
3. Add resistor box and solder the OBD0 injector plugs onto the OBD2 harness and use the OBD0 injectors
4. Use OBD0 B16A header and two 1 wire O2 sensors or OBD1/2 header and weld in two O2 bungs
5. If not an EX or Si run wiring for VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch and Knock sensor (you'll have to add knock sensor regardless what model it is)
6. Convert over plug on your OBD0 alternator to the OBD2 style (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/fobtions/alt.jpg)
Method 2
1. Use OBD2-1 ECU adaptor and use P28 chipped, P72 chipped, P30 or P72 for B18C/C1 motors
2. Use an OBD1 B16a or B18C distributor with an OBD2-1 distributor adaptor or convert the plugs from your cars distributor over to the OBD1 distributor
3. Use OBD2 injectors from your vehicle
4. Use a OBD1/2 B16A header
5 If not an EX or Si (99-00) run wiring for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor (you'll have to add knock sensor unless it is an SI).
6. If you have an auto car or a non VTEC model you will have to wire in for a 2 wire IACV as your's is a 3 wire.
7. Convert over plug on your OBD0 alternator to the OBD2 style (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/fobtions/alt.jpg)
Method 3
1. Use an OBD2 ECU P2T from a 99-00 SI
2. Use OBD2 distributor from a B18C1 or B16A2, or an OBD1 dizzy from a B16A/B18C1 either swapping over the plugs or using a dizzy adaptor, can't use OBD0 dizzys on OBD2 ECU's
3. Use the OBD2 injectors from your engine
4. Use an OBD1/2 header
5. If not an EX or Si (99-00) run wiring for the VTEC solenoid, VTEC pressure switch, and knock sensor (you'll have to add knock sensor unless it is an SI).
6. If you have an auto car or a non VTEC model you will have to wire in for a 2 wire IACV as your's is a 3 wire.
7. You'll also need to trick the CKF at the ECU so the ECU won't throw a code (http://www.ff-squad.com/technet/ckftrick.htm)
8. Convert over plug on your OBD0 alternator to the OBD2 style (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v130/fobtions/alt.jpg)
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,024
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From: Nowhere'sville, No where
Bump. I'm honestly in a bad position, and i'm not just faking this thread only to get the replies I need just so I don't have to search. I have searched and really need help with this.
Not sure about the swap. However, doesn't it seem more logical to rebuild or replace the B18C in your 00 GSR?
If you swap from the 93 you will not only have a car with no engine, but you will have a GSR with a undesirable swap.
You can buy a nice JDM B18C from www.hmotorsonline.com for around $1600.
You could probably do a budget rebuild for about the same if not less.
If you don't have the cash then I would consider selling the "race" car to get your daily driver sorted out.
If you swap from the 93 you will not only have a car with no engine, but you will have a GSR with a undesirable swap.
You can buy a nice JDM B18C from www.hmotorsonline.com for around $1600.
You could probably do a budget rebuild for about the same if not less.
If you don't have the cash then I would consider selling the "race" car to get your daily driver sorted out.
Thread Starter
Honda-Tech Member
Joined: Oct 2006
Posts: 1,024
Likes: 0
From: Nowhere'sville, No where
Not sure about the swap. However, doesn't it seem more logical to rebuild or replace the B18C in your 00 GSR?
If you swap from the 93 you will not only have a car with no engine, but you will have a GSR with a undesirable swap.
You can buy a nice JDM B18C from www.hmotorsonline.com for around $1600.
You could probably do a budget rebuild for about the same if not less.
If you don't have the cash then I would consider selling the "race" car to get your daily driver sorted out.
If you swap from the 93 you will not only have a car with no engine, but you will have a GSR with a undesirable swap.
You can buy a nice JDM B18C from www.hmotorsonline.com for around $1600.
You could probably do a budget rebuild for about the same if not less.
If you don't have the cash then I would consider selling the "race" car to get your daily driver sorted out.
The B16 always seemed to run good. The torque differences, from my perspective by the seat of my pants, are that you can definitely tell that there is a larger motor in the car with the GSR or even with the LS, but the difference is so minute that I don't really even bother to care. I can definitely see what everyone means when they say the B16 is a torqueless POS, but it's not like we're comparing apples to oranges.
We shall see.
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integrawow
Acura Integra
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Jan 19, 2009 07:44 PM




