How many of you have ever swapped the front subframe on a 99-00 Civic hatch?

I am interested in any pointers and experiences.

How long did it take? etc.?

Thanks,

Nick

 

I am assuming you are talking about the front sub-frame that holds the steering rack?
And you are needing to swap with another factory sub-frame for some reason or do you have some after-market sub-frame that i don't know about where fabrication or some kind of cutting could be required?

Whats the reason for the swap could be helpful as well ?

 

yes I am talking about the front subframe that holds the steering rack. A few years back I ran over a parking lot concrete divider during a rain storm on a flooded street while trying to get out of a hail storm.

This resulted in an smashed oil pan and my driverside front LCA being crimped inside of the subframe. I am in the process of setting up my suspension for Autox and can not get my front LCA out of the subframe, hence why I am swapping it.

That is the long and the short of it I am afraid.

Nick

 

Sounds to me like a bent subframe.
Buy it from Honda, it should cost around 230 dollars without shipping.

To actually change the subframe, get ready to spend a dedicated weekend or week depending on your mechanical skills. The way I have seen it done it in the past was to remove the engine w/ tranny axles and everything, remove anything that will get in your way, remove original subframe and reverse.

I have not actually done this, but my subframe is slightly bent, so i need to do this as well. G/L

 

Why would you have to remove the engine just to get the subframe down? Could you not just unbolt the rear mount from the T-bracket?

 

I have a portion of my subframe that is bent around the front LCA's. I knew that it was bent that is why I have a spare one sitting in my garage.

You do not have to take all of the motor out, just unbolt the reat T-bracket.

I was just wonder if anyone has done it before. I guess I will jump into it next week.

I know that you have to unbolt the steering rack from inside the car, that is the only part that I am iffy about being that I have have never messed with it.

Oh well, any personal experiences/pointers would be very helpful.

Nick

 

Steering rack is easy to unbolt from inside the car. Getting it back in isn't too bad either, just put a jack under it and move it up slowly so that you can line up the steering linkage.

An impact gun makes the subframe removal a breeze. I'd suggest replacing any bushings while you have everything apart too.

 

Ok, sounds good. That is what I was thinking about doing as well.

Thanks!

 

It's not very hard to swap, just takes some time.

The only thing you need to unbolt from the inside the universal joint. Just unbolt the end that attaches to the rack, not the steering column. Be sure to pull the bolt all the way out since the steering rack shaft has a detent. Just unbolt the LCA, the rear mount bolt, and I think 4 subframe bolts. 2 of the compliance bushing bolts go through the subframe to the unibody IIRC. Use a jack to lower and raise the subframe.

Also if there's a cross brace on the subframe, you might have to remove it. I was swapping in an Integra subframe and it kept on getting in the way so I just removed it.

If you have power steering then you'll have to disconnect the lines. I recommend disconnecting them at the resevoir and pump. It's alot easier to connect them up there than it is on the rack.

 

Cool. Sounds like it is going to be pretty straight foward.

How hard is it to disconect the clips from the body? You know the boot that is attatched to the floor board that covers where the steering rack and the steering column connect.

What is the best way to remove the clips on the floorboard?

 

they are correct this is a very easy thing to do.
i would recommend swapping the rack into the new subframe while its off the car. makes things a whole lot easier.
also, the factory service manual says you should replace the bolts when you do this.
not sure exactly why, they aren't under much torque but just to be safe i did that as well.

 

When we did it, we removed the whole motor because it made things SOOO easy. Being as how we had never done this, and we did not really know what we were doing, we removed everything. While we were at it, we changed the leaking rear main seal, and a whole bunch of gaskets, so it turned out as a win win situation

 

It's definitely easier with no motor but if the OP doesn't have any motor problems, there's no need to pull the motor.

Definitely drop the subframe and steering rack as a unit. There's no need to remove the rack from the subframe in the car. And put it back as a unit as "Confidence" said.

There's no special trick to removing the clips. There are 3 or 4 black push clips that hold the boot to the firewall. Just shoved a panel remover tool under them and pry. A screwdriver works in a pinch also. Then there's 2 metal snap clips that hold the boot on the column. Just give those a tug and they pop right off. Then just pry the boot off.

 

Then from there I just unscrew the two screws that are holding the rack to the steering column. Correct?

 

This is a link from a user on HT. His u/n is "monaco" or something like that. I've used his guide to successfully install my power windows and much more. Here is a link to what you're looking for. This is for the 96 civic hatch but it shouldn't be too different.

http://repo.jackmoves.com/v/erik/album106/album139/