2000 Accord Coupe V-6 Start-->Die
Hello everyone. This is my first post and I am looking forward to picking all your technical know how. My girlfriend and I have a 2000 Honda Accord V6 Coupe. About 1 year ago it started with a very intermittent annoying problem. When the car is warm, when you go to start it again, it will sputter and then die right away. The only way to overcome this for me is to hold the gas at higher rpm to "clear it out". If you just get driving it will clear out next time you stop at idle, and most always be cool after that. Sometimes the check engine light comes on when this happens. Her mechanic, said he changed the "idle control sensor" I have been looking around some forums, is the "idle control sensor" aka the intake control valve. I have heard of someone talking about how you can clean out a screen that can get full of build up. Just had it smogged and it passed very clean. Any idea what to check, apparently when the mechanic checked he did not get any solid leads by checking the computer for codes. I really appreciate some feedback.
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
Ok, thanks will do. I just check with her mechanic and he said that he changed out the idle air control valve, so that did't fix it. I will work on getting those cel codes is their any way I can get them myself by doing the light count or something.
i signed up because of this thread :p.
anyways, i've actually come across the same problem. except that my CEL doesn't come on when this happens.
right now my CEL is on, but i think it may be due to tranny issues. not sure, my mechanic's OBDII reader kept giving "error" codes, which makes me believe that the ECU is not communicating with the OBDII reader....
anyways, i've actually come across the same problem. except that my CEL doesn't come on when this happens.
right now my CEL is on, but i think it may be due to tranny issues. not sure, my mechanic's OBDII reader kept giving "error" codes, which makes me believe that the ECU is not communicating with the OBDII reader....
Trending Topics
it could be the EGR valve. Thats probably what you heard of being clogged up.
Its really simple to install the "kit" that honda sells. They sell around 70-80 dollars online. Takes about 45 minutes to take care of.
If you get the CEL code it would help a lot. The only other thing I can think of is the Main Relay Assembly, but thats usually associated with cold start problems, not warm start.
Its really simple to install the "kit" that honda sells. They sell around 70-80 dollars online. Takes about 45 minutes to take care of.
If you get the CEL code it would help a lot. The only other thing I can think of is the Main Relay Assembly, but thats usually associated with cold start problems, not warm start.
it could be the EGR valve. Thats probably what you heard of being clogged up.
Its really simple to install the "kit" that honda sells. They sell around 70-80 dollars online. Takes about 45 minutes to take care of.
If you get the CEL code it would help a lot. The only other thing I can think of is the Main Relay Assembly, but thats usually associated with cold start problems, not warm start.
Its really simple to install the "kit" that honda sells. They sell around 70-80 dollars online. Takes about 45 minutes to take care of.
If you get the CEL code it would help a lot. The only other thing I can think of is the Main Relay Assembly, but thats usually associated with cold start problems, not warm start.
TBH, it's so random occuring, that there isn't any real way of troubleshooting this, especially since it doesn't give off the CEL.
however, what does occur frequently when i start up my car, is the idle RPM goes down below normal. i'd say around 600 RPM where the norm appears to be closer to 900 according to the tachometer. this only happens whenever i start my car but not once i get going and i stop at a light or something.
I had the exact same issue on my 2000 Accord V6. In my case, it was the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) causing the issue. I removed and cleaned my IACV, and the issue went away. I would double check to make sure that mechanic actually did replace it for you since you are still having the same problem. The part is not cheap (about $150), so if your mechanic did in fact replace yours, I'm sure the repair bill would be hefty.
If you definitely have a new IACV, other two things to check would be throttle position sensor (TPS) and Mass Air sensor. Both are located on the throttle body.
If you definitely have a new IACV, other two things to check would be throttle position sensor (TPS) and Mass Air sensor. Both are located on the throttle body.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




