H22 Cam intall help
SO I was anxious to get the head out to the machine shop, so I took out the cams and removed the head in about 3 hours yesterday. Everything was going well utill I realized that I had not set the engine to TDC before removing the head. Other that the flywheel marking or taking the balancer belt pully off to look for the mark on the crank pully I dont know how to find TDC. I often get myself psyched out and over complicate things like this, but tell me if this would work. Put the car in gear and roll it forwad untill the #1 piston (the one farthest from the crank) is up as high as it will go? Then I'll be at top dead center and I will able to install the cams with the gears both pointing up, right? Before you guys say anything about a manual, my Haynes got covered in oil and is unreadable, last week
Thanks for the help guys!
Here is the set up btw
Brian Crower stage II all motor cams
Brian Crower dual valve springs and steel retainers
Unorthadox racing cam gears
Stock valves...Im a little worried about this part :/
Unorthadox racing alt&ps pullys
Removed butterflys in the im plate
Ferrea valve seals
Skunk2 cam seal
ARP head studs
Cometic head gasket
KMS egr blockoff
removed cruise control and ac
AEM CAI
Maxbore 65mm tb&im
Hondata im gasket
Megan header
2 1/2 mandrel bent, hi-flow cat, resonator, vibrant flat black muffler
p72 tuned with ectune
It should be tuned in the next couple of weeks if everything goes ok so keep and eye open for a new thread with Dyno results
Thanks for the help guys!Here is the set up btw
Brian Crower stage II all motor cams
Brian Crower dual valve springs and steel retainers
Unorthadox racing cam gears
Stock valves...Im a little worried about this part :/
Unorthadox racing alt&ps pullys
Removed butterflys in the im plate
Ferrea valve seals
Skunk2 cam seal
ARP head studs
Cometic head gasket
KMS egr blockoff
removed cruise control and ac
AEM CAI
Maxbore 65mm tb&im
Hondata im gasket
Megan header
2 1/2 mandrel bent, hi-flow cat, resonator, vibrant flat black muffler
p72 tuned with ectune
It should be tuned in the next couple of weeks if everything goes ok so keep and eye open for a new thread with Dyno results
there is a mark on the oil pump. Line the mark from the gear that drives the timing belt with that mark. There is also the method of just pulling a plug and using some type of rod or something to find TDC but the first method is easier in your case since you already have it apart.
Don't worry Ive gotten myself nervous and frustrated with things much more simple than that. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Don't worry Ive gotten myself nervous and frustrated with things much more simple than that. Take your time and you'll be fine.
Uh, if the head is off the engine, just set the #1 piston to the top of the stroke (you can easily see it since the head is not on the engine). That would be TDC on #1!
Now, once the head is on, then there is a difference between TDC on the compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke, but with no head, TDC is TDC.
Also, it seems you have the piston numbering backwards. Cylinder numbering starts at the timing belt. #1 is closest to the timing belt and #4 is furthest.
Why bother rolling the car? Just install the woodruff key and the crank pulley (without the bolt) and turn the engine over by hand. Obviously, only turn the engine CCW.
I wouldn't worry about the OEM valves. Have them checked at the machine shop to ensure that they're not damaged. Have a proper valve job done, and you'll be fine. I would also stick with an OEM headgasket. I've never seen one fail on an NA engine (actually I've never personally seen one fail at all). Unless the Ferrea valve seals are much cheaper, I'd stick with OEM there as well. You can buy an entire OEM engine gasket kit that will save you a bit of money.
If the head has a lot of miles on it, have the machine shop check the valve guides. It seems that every high mileage H22 head I've come across needs new guides...
One other bit of advice. **** can the Haynes and buy a Helms manual.
Now, once the head is on, then there is a difference between TDC on the compression stroke or TDC on the exhaust stroke, but with no head, TDC is TDC.Also, it seems you have the piston numbering backwards. Cylinder numbering starts at the timing belt. #1 is closest to the timing belt and #4 is furthest.
Why bother rolling the car? Just install the woodruff key and the crank pulley (without the bolt) and turn the engine over by hand. Obviously, only turn the engine CCW.
I wouldn't worry about the OEM valves. Have them checked at the machine shop to ensure that they're not damaged. Have a proper valve job done, and you'll be fine. I would also stick with an OEM headgasket. I've never seen one fail on an NA engine (actually I've never personally seen one fail at all). Unless the Ferrea valve seals are much cheaper, I'd stick with OEM there as well. You can buy an entire OEM engine gasket kit that will save you a bit of money.
If the head has a lot of miles on it, have the machine shop check the valve guides. It seems that every high mileage H22 head I've come across needs new guides...
One other bit of advice. **** can the Haynes and buy a Helms manual.
Last edited by 117; Jan 16, 2009 at 08:15 AM.
There is also a timing pointer on the flywheel. there is a square hole on the block just below the upper radiator hose outlet. sometimes there is a rubber plug sealing it. look inside, youll see a pointer on the block, line it up with the white "T" on th e flywheel. thats top dead center. I hope you locked down the tensioner. Otherwise it may have fully extended. youll have to remove it and compress it manually before you can reinstall the cams.
I got helms manuals haha.
Are you gonna be running stock pistons then? And it may be wise to take this oportunity to do the manual tensioner swap so you don't have to worry about the auto tensioner as those seem to have problems on motors that get beat on alot for some reason also.
Are you gonna be running stock pistons then? And it may be wise to take this oportunity to do the manual tensioner swap so you don't have to worry about the auto tensioner as those seem to have problems on motors that get beat on alot for some reason also.
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