Lower Control Arm... Please help!!!
I started installing my new Neuspeed Sportline springs last night and I got the front 2 on without a problem but the back ones are impossible! I was trying to unscrew the bolt that connects the lower control arm to the shock and it looks like it has siezed to the bushing. Does anyone know how to get the damn thing out with out cutting it? I tried a socket wrench and a breaker bar and it just spins the bushing and bolt as if they are one, I tried Kroll's oil and WD-40, and now I'm thinking of torching it but my ABS line runs in between the shock and the control arm so I'm afraid to melt the damn thing with my torch. I'm thinking of cutting it but I don't know what kind of saw I can use to cut through that because it looks a little to strong for the stuff I have now. Please help.
SeArCh
Get a socket......put it on and start spinning to where you can get your fingers around it.....keep spinning and pulling at the same time.....I hated this part.
Bolt....can you get at least a little gap between the LCA and the bolt?
If not try pushing the bolt from the other side while spinning with a screw driver until you can get your fingers around it and pull......
If not try pushing the bolt from the other side while spinning with a screw driver until you can get your fingers around it and pull......
No room at all. How would I use a screw driver on a bolt head?
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention... the bolt is not spinning on the other end. Like when I twist the bolt head, the part of the bolt that sticks out of the other side of the bushing does not move.
[Modified by MyWhiteCivic, 4:12 PM 8/6/2002]
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention... the bolt is not spinning on the other end. Like when I twist the bolt head, the part of the bolt that sticks out of the other side of the bushing does not move.
[Modified by MyWhiteCivic, 4:12 PM 8/6/2002]
Oh yeah, I forgot to mention... the bolt is not spinning on the other end. Like when I twist the bolt head, the part of the bolt that sticks out of the other side of the bushing does not move.
[Modified by MyWhiteCivic, 4:12 PM 8/6/2002]
[Modified by MyWhiteCivic, 4:12 PM 8/6/2002]
Trending Topics
Broken bolt.
Wedge a flat head screw driver between the freely-spinning bolt head and the bushing, and lever the bolt out while spinning the bolt head. It'll come. Then you've got to deal with the other end, and I can't remember if its a welded on threaded casting or just a big *** nut. If its the latter, you're ok, just buy new ones.
And remember.......ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS soak them in WD40 to START!!
Steve
Lemme make sure I understand you - When you try to loosen up the 14mm bolt that holds the LCA to the shock, the bushing in the LCA turns with it? When you loosen it does the head of the bolt come away from the shock, I mean is the bolt actually coming out? If it is, just keep turning and it should come loose of the bushing.
The nut on the other side is welded to the shock, that's why it's not turning.
If worse come to worse, you could always remove the LCA with the shock/spring attached. Thats what I had to do because the bolt was seized(couldn't even get it loose with a impact wrench). Once you have it off, just replace the spring like normal.
Hope that helps and is not too confusing
Mike
[Modified by slowexcoupe, 9:27 PM 8/6/2002]
The nut on the other side is welded to the shock, that's why it's not turning.
If worse come to worse, you could always remove the LCA with the shock/spring attached. Thats what I had to do because the bolt was seized(couldn't even get it loose with a impact wrench). Once you have it off, just replace the spring like normal.
Hope that helps and is not too confusing
Mike
[Modified by slowexcoupe, 9:27 PM 8/6/2002]
when im doing springs or changing the lca is it a good idea to just soak the bolts in wd40 for a week before? thats something i heard about doing.
Also, when you are turning the bolt, look around at the nut that's welded to the shock and see it the tapered end of the bolt is spinning as well. That'll let you know if you have a broken bolt or not.
Mike
Mike
Also, when you are turning the bolt, look around at the nut that's welded to the shock and see it the tapered end of the bolt is spinning as well. That'll let you know if you have a broken bolt or not.
Mike
Mike
As far as soaking in WD40 for a week...that may be a little extreme, but for sure the day before. I guess you just have to try it. I haven't had any siezed problems (touch wood).....but its just a matter of time as the cars get older......
Steve
time to swap to poly bushings in the LCAs now too....
EASY STEPS TO REMOVE AN OEM LCA BUSHING AND REPLACE WITH A POLYURETHANE BUSHING THAT DO NOT REQUIRE A HYDRAULIC PRESS-
1) remove LCA from car (if needed- cut or drill out the bolt ends, only drill as deep as needed to remove the LCA from the car)
2) place end of bushing "inner collar" in a vice (so the LCA is sitting on top of the vice with the half inch of collar that protrudes from the bushing IN the vice clamps)
3) rotate the LCA around this collar- that should separate the collar from the bushing by tearing the aged rubber.
(this works because the rubber piece has a low resistance to twisting -good for us here, yet the rubber maintains a very high compression strength -good when in the car-)
4) lift off the LCA from the inner collar, use a unscrewing motion, use a screwdriver against the vice as leverage if needed.
5) using a hacksaw, run the blade through the new hole present in the rubber bushing in the LCA
6) cut through any remaining rubber and also through the bushings metal "outer collar" (this collar is not very thick so be careful to avoid cutting into the LCA)
6) when the outer collar is cut, that relieves its ability to maintain its hold inside the LCA, so now it can be pounded out with a blunt-driver or chisel and a hammer.
7) sand the hole in the LCA to remove any burrs, rust and rough edges
8) using the vice, squeeze in the new polyurethane bushings per instructions, be sure to lube 'em up as directed (any poly surface that contacts metal should be lubed)
9) repeat for each bushing to be replaced
10) go drive hard and enjoy life with polyurethane bushings in part of your suspension… life is good
1) remove LCA from car (if needed- cut or drill out the bolt ends, only drill as deep as needed to remove the LCA from the car)
2) place end of bushing "inner collar" in a vice (so the LCA is sitting on top of the vice with the half inch of collar that protrudes from the bushing IN the vice clamps)
3) rotate the LCA around this collar- that should separate the collar from the bushing by tearing the aged rubber.
(this works because the rubber piece has a low resistance to twisting -good for us here, yet the rubber maintains a very high compression strength -good when in the car-)
4) lift off the LCA from the inner collar, use a unscrewing motion, use a screwdriver against the vice as leverage if needed.
5) using a hacksaw, run the blade through the new hole present in the rubber bushing in the LCA
6) cut through any remaining rubber and also through the bushings metal "outer collar" (this collar is not very thick so be careful to avoid cutting into the LCA)
6) when the outer collar is cut, that relieves its ability to maintain its hold inside the LCA, so now it can be pounded out with a blunt-driver or chisel and a hammer.
7) sand the hole in the LCA to remove any burrs, rust and rough edges
8) using the vice, squeeze in the new polyurethane bushings per instructions, be sure to lube 'em up as directed (any poly surface that contacts metal should be lubed)
9) repeat for each bushing to be replaced
10) go drive hard and enjoy life with polyurethane bushings in part of your suspension… life is good
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 331
Likes: 0
From: If ignorance is bliss... I am in the happiest, place on earth.
just cut the nut off the back of the shock and replace the whole thing with SS nuts and bolts. I do it to everyone of my cars, it has gotten to where I do not even try and remove that f0ker, just cut it.
later
matt
later
matt
Owen....
That's pure bitchin'......I've needed to do my poly bushings, but couldn't figure out how to get the old ones out without a press. Do you think that there's any problem with new OEM LCA bushings?? I put on new LCAs when I installed my ITR rear anti-roll bar. Does the twisting action have the same effect or is it a lot harder with new rubber bushings?
TIA!
Steve
That's pure bitchin'......I've needed to do my poly bushings, but couldn't figure out how to get the old ones out without a press. Do you think that there's any problem with new OEM LCA bushings?? I put on new LCAs when I installed my ITR rear anti-roll bar. Does the twisting action have the same effect or is it a lot harder with new rubber bushings?
TIA!
Steve
When this happens to me, I take the LCA and strut off the car while they're still connected, then I run them down to a machine shop to have them take it off. Usually the machine shop ends up breaking the bolt and ruining the bushing, thus having to replace them for free.
come to think about it. that just happened to me today when i was installing my sway bars. the bolt was seized up on the bushing and ended up ripping the bushing totally out. ended up cutting the two ends of the bolt off to separate the shock from the lca. sucked ***. had to go buy a new lca and bolt. i wouldve got the poly kit but it costs more than the lca and there wasnt one in stock. it pissed me off so bad.
are the poly bushing recommended? im doing a rear disc swap here soon(go all parts and motor from IAS), and those steps seem fairly easy, is it really recommended?
Lemme make sure I understand you - When you try to loosen up the 14mm bolt that holds the LCA to the shock, the bushing in the LCA turns with it? When you loosen it does the head of the bolt come away from the shock, I mean is the bolt actually coming out? If it is, just keep turning and it should come loose of the bushing.
The nut on the other side is welded to the shock, that's why it's not turning.
If worse come to worse, you could always remove the LCA with the shock/spring attached. Thats what I had to do because the bolt was seized(couldn't even get it loose with a impact wrench). Once you have it off, just replace the spring like normal.
Hope that helps and is not too confusing
Mike
[Modified by slowexcoupe, 9:27 PM 8/6/2002]
The nut on the other side is welded to the shock, that's why it's not turning.
If worse come to worse, you could always remove the LCA with the shock/spring attached. Thats what I had to do because the bolt was seized(couldn't even get it loose with a impact wrench). Once you have it off, just replace the spring like normal.
Hope that helps and is not too confusing
Mike
[Modified by slowexcoupe, 9:27 PM 8/6/2002]
no need to remove the LCA or strut.
Undo the top 2 bolts inside car, lower the assembly and LCA, swing top of spring/strut outwards, swap springs, reinstall.
Undo the top 2 bolts inside car, lower the assembly and LCA, swing top of spring/strut outwards, swap springs, reinstall.
Broken bolt.
Yup, that's what it sounds like to me. You're SOL. Sorry
Wedge a flat head screw driver between the freely-spinning bolt head and the bushing, and lever the bolt out while spinning the bolt head. It'll come. Then you've got to deal with the other end, and I can't remember if its a welded on threaded casting or just a big *** nut. If its the latter, you're ok, just buy new ones.
And remember.......ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS soak them in WD40 to START!!
Steve
Yup, that's what it sounds like to me. You're SOL. Sorry
Wedge a flat head screw driver between the freely-spinning bolt head and the bushing, and lever the bolt out while spinning the bolt head. It'll come. Then you've got to deal with the other end, and I can't remember if its a welded on threaded casting or just a big *** nut. If its the latter, you're ok, just buy new ones.
And remember.......ALWAYS, ALWAYS, ALWAYS soak them in WD40 to START!!
Steve
I ended up putting in Energy Susp. bushings rather than risking having the same thing happen again. People say that an impact wrench and a lot of WD40 will get them out but I think that if they are more than 6 or 7 years old and you are in an area with cold winters (road salt) they are going to rust solid no matter what you do.Good luck. We have all been there
Mike
Not enough room to pull it down but I finally figured it out. I used a torch and started torching the end of the bolt while my friend started turning the bolt and it broke loose. Since the bushing was siezed to the bolt, it started ripping the rubber inside the bushing so I had to use a tap on the end of the bolt and smacked the damn thing a few times. As it turns out, the bolt was actually twisting inside the bushing. It looks really nasty, I wish I had my digi cam with me. Now I need to figure out how to press in new bushings
.
.
Just been through this **** tonight with my 93 Civic HB.
Oh my God what a disaster
I and my good friend non-VTEC
have tried this just last weekend and ended up ONLY doing my fronts, not the rears. We can already see I would be needing 2 rear LCA's and 2 new shock bolts. okay well. TONIGHT..
we do the passenger side rear spring/shock combo install right..no problems all bolts come off except for the shock bolt which we knew about. so we did that in like 10min, BUT now comes to the driver's side...what a BIATCH that was...**** my buddy could not budge that outer bolt near the brake assembly that holds the LCA so it finally just broke. Well, he ended up drilling out the whole entire bolt for like 1.5hrs it took..finally that darn LCA came out..so we finally install the new LCA'S with ES polyurethane bushings incl new OEM shock bushings..what a day!!
Oh my God what a disaster
I and my good friend non-VTEC
have tried this just last weekend and ended up ONLY doing my fronts, not the rears. We can already see I would be needing 2 rear LCA's and 2 new shock bolts. okay well. TONIGHT..
we do the passenger side rear spring/shock combo install right..no problems all bolts come off except for the shock bolt which we knew about. so we did that in like 10min, BUT now comes to the driver's side...what a BIATCH that was...**** my buddy could not budge that outer bolt near the brake assembly that holds the LCA so it finally just broke. Well, he ended up drilling out the whole entire bolt for like 1.5hrs it took..finally that darn LCA came out..so we finally install the new LCA'S with ES polyurethane bushings incl new OEM shock bushings..what a day!!
Just been through this **** tonight with my 93 Civic HB.
Oh my God what a disaster
I and my good friend non-VTEC
have tried this just last weekend and ended up ONLY doing my fronts, not the rears. We can already see I would be needing 2 rear LCA's and 2 new shock bolts. okay well. TONIGHT..
we do the passenger side rear spring/shock combo install right..no problems all bolts come off except for the shock bolt which we knew about. so we did that in like 10min, BUT now comes to the driver's side...what a BIATCH that was...**** my buddy could not budge that outer bolt near the brake assembly that holds the LCA so it finally just broke. Well, he ended up drilling out the whole entire bolt for like 1.5hrs it took..finally that darn LCA came out..so we finally install the new LCA'S with ES polyurethane bushings incl new OEM shock bushings..what a day!!
Oh my God what a disaster
I and my good friend non-VTEC
have tried this just last weekend and ended up ONLY doing my fronts, not the rears. We can already see I would be needing 2 rear LCA's and 2 new shock bolts. okay well. TONIGHT..
we do the passenger side rear spring/shock combo install right..no problems all bolts come off except for the shock bolt which we knew about. so we did that in like 10min, BUT now comes to the driver's side...what a BIATCH that was...**** my buddy could not budge that outer bolt near the brake assembly that holds the LCA so it finally just broke. Well, he ended up drilling out the whole entire bolt for like 1.5hrs it took..finally that darn LCA came out..so we finally install the new LCA'S with ES polyurethane bushings incl new OEM shock bushings..what a day!!
I just cut mine. Went to the junk yard and got some GSR control arms. They are nice because they have the eye-lett for a sway. Cheap too, $50 for the arms and springs.
-Jake
-Jake
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
PabloDiablo
Honda Civic / Del Sol (1992 - 2000)
6
Apr 21, 2004 05:05 PM





