Replaced the timing belt with a kevlar belt (not because of a belt failure).
Done at same time as headgasket change.

Cam timing marks line up, and everything else is adjusted correctly, as far as I can tell.

Now the belt is tight at some points in rotation, and loose at others.

Any ideas why it would do this?

Is it possible that the tensioner spring is worn out,
or would that keep it loose all the time?

Also having idle problems, but i don't think its related.

Distributor is all the way toward the front of the car
Tried adjusting it, but car has trouble running.
Idles high (1800-2500 rpm), and can't get it adjusted correctly.
I think its because I had to remove the FITV because of my
skunk2 intake manifold. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

 

Did you tension the belt properly?

The spring itself does nothing when the tensioner bolt is tight. The spring is only used for the initial tension procedure while the bolt is loose.

But having said that, I always replace the tensioner pulley and the spring at every timing belt change.

 

Its actually my Car thats having the issue. How do you tension it before tightening the bolt

I read something like get everything lined up TDC while the adjuster bolt is loose turn the crank counterclockwise 3teeth on the cams? Wouldn't this make the marks not line up anymore???? Or do you do this with the 5mm punch pins still blocking cam rotation to keep the cams lined up and just make the crank 3degrees off? Then tighten the tensioner bolt to 33ft/lbs.

I did one of these belts 5years ago and it was tight all the way around (well snug like a alternator belt). Right now there is like a inch of deflection either in between the cam gears, on the front side in between the exhaust cam and crank or in the back by the water pump/intake cam. Basicly tight on 2 out of 3 sides at all times during rotation. The last side becomes a wet noodle. I am using a Gates Racing Timing Belt T184RB (is the correct belt for a B18A)

The marks line up during rotation but i did notice the the intake cam will jump a tooth at low speeds and then the belt/exhaust put it back in check.

Needless to say I need help with all this.

Thanks,
Steve

 

Ok problem with the timing belt slack is solved. Took it apart with better directions and results. The belt has normal tension on all sides, the tensioner wasn't on the stud on the block to "tense" up.

 

Good job getting it fixed. You should only tension the belt (turn it 3 teeth) with the bolt loose AFTER you finish rotating the engine several times to make sure everything stays lined up. Rotating the engine around and around should only be done with the tensioner bolt TIGHT.

Also you should always install the belt over the exhaust cam gear BEFORE the intake cam gear. If you go the other way around, it would be very easy to get the slack you were referring to earlier.

 

similar issues. Im having trouble even getting the belt on even with the tensioner loose.