JUST BOUGHT A 88 HF! whats the cheapest way to hit mid to low 12s?
well i have been in and out the scene and ive always wanted a white 88 hf and i finally got one! now i want to decide on what to put in it. i was thinking maybe a b20z/b16 head and trans?
i dont want to do any motor work, just a stockish swap with all bolt ons and hit the track!!
ANY IDEAS MUST BE ALL MOTOR!! NO MORE THAN 3 GRAND!
so im sure some of you guys know the perfect combos to hit 12 seconds without breaking the wallet. i know **** breaks, but until then, i want to keep costs down.
keep in mind 88 HF is around 1800 lbs.
im 5'9 150 lbs.
were not as heavy as EG, EK, coupes, sedans...
P.S. should i do a cable to hydro trans conversion? dont want to be breaking trannys left and right
i dont want to do any motor work, just a stockish swap with all bolt ons and hit the track!!
ANY IDEAS MUST BE ALL MOTOR!! NO MORE THAN 3 GRAND!
so im sure some of you guys know the perfect combos to hit 12 seconds without breaking the wallet. i know **** breaks, but until then, i want to keep costs down.
keep in mind 88 HF is around 1800 lbs.
im 5'9 150 lbs.
were not as heavy as EG, EK, coupes, sedans...
P.S. should i do a cable to hydro trans conversion? dont want to be breaking trannys left and right
how the hell did i miss that?????
thats it im going to bed!!!
yeah like the above poster b20vtec some driver skill and traction!
a short geared b16 trans should do the job and i dont think you will have issues with it breaking, cable will be fine, but you can upgrade to hydro if its within budget.
thats it im going to bed!!!
yeah like the above poster b20vtec some driver skill and traction!
a short geared b16 trans should do the job and i dont think you will have issues with it breaking, cable will be fine, but you can upgrade to hydro if its within budget.
Last edited by 93formula; Jan 13, 2009 at 11:32 PM.
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yea do the b20vtec and then go for some bad tires and lower and stuff to make u get better traction and u can run a small shot of juice thats what im guna do
lol. somehow...dont know how. i read his whole OP. and missed that part lol. my opinion on all motor would probably be over 3k. but ill try
okay i had to edit that one too because i started talking about getting headwork done...honestly i dont know what to tell you about b20/v setups because the only one i know of and have seen personally ran 14s. so...i dont know what to tell you on that one. however you could do an h2b swap for under 3k and it should be in the 12s somewhere. i ran 13.58 on on 205-50-15 falkens with a completely stock h22 longblock, modified DC header, an intake and open header. however my car weighed around 2500 with me in it at the time. hope that helps.
okay i had to edit that one too because i started talking about getting headwork done...honestly i dont know what to tell you about b20/v setups because the only one i know of and have seen personally ran 14s. so...i dont know what to tell you on that one. however you could do an h2b swap for under 3k and it should be in the 12s somewhere. i ran 13.58 on on 205-50-15 falkens with a completely stock h22 longblock, modified DC header, an intake and open header. however my car weighed around 2500 with me in it at the time. hope that helps.
swap to the si (d16a6) (if you want have the bottom end redone w/ diff pistons such as the vitaras) get a turbo kit slap it on - go ahead and get a tune before you turn the boost up
look at your suspension and into traction bars...at this point you should be at a max of 2g's before any suspension or traction
learn to launch and when to shift and then when you think you have it - add either a sneaky peat nitrous shot or shot of your choice you'll get where you want with no problem
look at your suspension and into traction bars...at this point you should be at a max of 2g's before any suspension or traction
learn to launch and when to shift and then when you think you have it - add either a sneaky peat nitrous shot or shot of your choice you'll get where you want with no problem
watch it. youll get yelled at too lol jk. he apparently wants an na setup. but like this fellow above me stated. you can easily go 12s on a cheap *** turbo kit. on your stock engine. would asking you to put headstuds in your car be too much to ask on the internals lol.....dude just turbo it. you'll have ALOT more fun.
swap to the si (d16a6) (if you want have the bottom end redone w/ diff pistons such as the vitaras) get a turbo kit slap it on - go ahead and get a tune before you turn the boost up
look at your suspension and into traction bars...at this point you should be at a max of 2g's before any suspension or traction
learn to launch and when to shift and then when you think you have it - add either a sneaky peat nitrous shot or shot of your choice you'll get where you want with no problem
look at your suspension and into traction bars...at this point you should be at a max of 2g's before any suspension or traction
learn to launch and when to shift and then when you think you have it - add either a sneaky peat nitrous shot or shot of your choice you'll get where you want with no problem
the stock bottom end is a little too weak
I'm gonna try to take my ls crx and when I get the turbo and such wanting to break 11's while still being able to daily drive it
well i see i got a lot of good responses!! so yeah i was thinking NA, cuz ive had y7/y8 turbo twice and sr20det s14 and **** ALWAYS seems to fukc up on a turbo car. its more **** to worry about, couplings, boost spikes, fmic, turbo going out, blowby...and NA is more basic. yeah **** fukcs up too, but less stuff to worry about breaking.
so far im leaning towards a b20v with headwork. anyone else have other suggestions i should take into consideration?
sohc nitrous?
so far im leaning towards a b20v with headwork. anyone else have other suggestions i should take into consideration?
sohc nitrous?
if you are willing to bring nitrous into the deal then your options open up
there is an all motor ls build around here you can do on a budget - get a tune for say a 65 shot of nitrous with some practice on driving it you will get there - all motor single with or without nitrous will be a lot more expensive to try to get into the 12's - going to a h/b or h2b is gonna give you a better start
h2b w/ a solid header and exhaust little heavy on pocket in some aspects but well worth it
there is an all motor ls build around here you can do on a budget - get a tune for say a 65 shot of nitrous with some practice on driving it you will get there - all motor single with or without nitrous will be a lot more expensive to try to get into the 12's - going to a h/b or h2b is gonna give you a better start
h2b w/ a solid header and exhaust little heavy on pocket in some aspects but well worth it
The cheapest way to hit mid to low 12s would be to do a couple months of research, before making any decisions.
my brothers crx with a full poly wings west kit, full Si interior ran a 12.7-12.8 with his b20vtec stock internals. basic bolt ons. we spend 1100 for the motor and built it ourselves. head work will definitely put you in low 12's why? my friend just ran his car last sunday in his crx, b20v with supertech valve train (at least i know that part) ran a 12.1
my sedan has full interior/system and previously had a b20vtec which ran a 13.6. not bad for a 4dr.
h2b is great..but hood fitment issues, hacking chassis parts to fix some of the h2b parts..think about it.
good driving skills and slicks helps alot.
my sedan has full interior/system and previously had a b20vtec which ran a 13.6. not bad for a 4dr.
h2b is great..but hood fitment issues, hacking chassis parts to fix some of the h2b parts..think about it.
good driving skills and slicks helps alot.
Question - Why are you doing headwork on an engine with a bottom end designed for low(er) RPM usage?
Wouldn't it make more sense to bulletproof the bottom end first so that you don't have to worry about everything going to **** when you're revving to 8k?
I mean, maybe I'm just thinking crazy here. You could get head parts for like $400 for valvetrain + some used GSR cams and adjustable cam gears and do better.
Wouldn't it make more sense to bulletproof the bottom end first so that you don't have to worry about everything going to **** when you're revving to 8k?
I mean, maybe I'm just thinking crazy here. You could get head parts for like $400 for valvetrain + some used GSR cams and adjustable cam gears and do better.
haa ****, forgot about the bottom end of a b20 block..ACL bearings arp rod bolts
block guard perhaps? ~$300?
(we ran my brothers b20vtec for 4 years and its still here today but in a EE wagon now)
block guard perhaps? ~$300?(we ran my brothers b20vtec for 4 years and its still here today but in a EE wagon now)
h2b is a no no.h22a,hondata s300, mfactory lsd,and 5.13 final drive.23x7.5x15 slicks.
this at least is an all stock way to start,and have the ability to tune.get comfortable launching the car,the 2 step,and full throttle shift will help as well as the reduction in gearing,and the ability to put that power to the pavement.
this at least is an all stock way to start,and have the ability to tune.get comfortable launching the car,the 2 step,and full throttle shift will help as well as the reduction in gearing,and the ability to put that power to the pavement.


