I am rebuilding my motor and for the block i would like to replace the piston rings, the bearings, and get everything cleaned up. I have been told that the pistons can be removed from the block just as long as the wrist pins are not removed and that i do not bore out the cylinder walls.

My question that i now have is in regards to cleaning the block and all the burnt oil that may be inside it. Is it possible to hot tank the block once everything is unassembled without damaging the material? I would assume so since really it is just boiling hot water.

My second question is would i be able to have the pistons/rods and crank hot tanked as well without damaging them?

Sorry if those sound like noob questions but i am not to fond of putting dirty parts back together. Also please don't tell me to just sleeve the block and go forged or overbore and use mahle, i really don't have the funds for that right now. I just want to know if i can clean all these parts and slap it all back together with no issues

Thanks in advance!

 

Measure the bores to check roundness and taper. And also check the piston-wall clearances. If all those are within spec, you can reuse the pistons and rering.

Make sure you apply oil or WD40 to the cylinders immediately after hot tanking.

Not sure about the crank and rods, as they're steel and will be prone to rusting. The shop doing it will be able to give you a straightforward answer.

 

thanks for the quick reply. When you say apply oil or WD40 do you mean just rub it on (oil)? WD40 is also water based so between the two i would just use oil if it is suppose to be lubricated for a while.

I am also having alot of trouble finding a store locally where i can buy measurement tools and no one on the local boards seem to know because most of them just do swaps or pay shops to do the work for them. Is there a good online store i can order all the tools required? Also what specific tools will be needed? This is my first motor build and i would like to do it correctly the first time

I'll talk to the machine shop i am dealing with about the crank and rods.

 

You need a bore gauge and a micrometer to measure the cylinders and piston-wall clearance. Straight-edge and feeler gauge to check deck warpage. Plastigauge is good enough to check the bearing clearances. www.use-enco sells these instruments at good prices. Even still, it'd probably be cheaper and easier to just have the machine shop do the measurements.

I doubt WD-40 is water based since one of its uses is removing/preventing moisture. Oil is a safe bet.

 

From what i heard WD40 is indeed waterbased. Someone suggested a better product that is sylicone based but honestly i can't argue either since i have not personally read the ingredients. I will just use oil regardless :p

I know that it might be cheaper but i know that down the road i will be building more motors so i might as well buy the tools myself now, get a great learning experience going, and see if i can successfully build a motor by myself with the guidence of the forums.

Thank you!

 

Okay i have another question what kind of bore gauge should i be buying. There are a ton of them and their prices range from $100 to $1700. What kind of maximun, minimum range and gage depth should i be looking at? Actually, if it is not to big of a hassle for you could you let me know the ranges for all the tools you suggested? I know that is alot to ask but i have never seen a faq's article on any site that provides this information. If not then its all good. Looking at that website i really would not be able to place an order without knowing the answers to my question.

 

wd-40 is waterbased. Its junk if you ask me. Silicone based lubricants are the the bomb. For reassembly you'd use regular motor oil wouldn't ya to coat the pistons?

 

Larry @ Endyn coats the bores and pistons with WD-40 during assembly. He's probably one of the most meticulous engine builders you'll ever come across. Read this article:

http://theoldone.com/articles/badtothebone/

Experienced builders have told me the Enco brand gauges are fine. Look through the helms for what ranges you'll need. I can't be of too much help with precision measuring instruments as I don't have much experience with them. Rosko or PirateMcfred will be able to answer all your question regarding them; they're both experienced machinists.

 

Thank you very much vinuneuro. I'll give those guys a pm to see if they can help me out

 

as far as the measurement tools go, check these out:
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S...771_0006544748
and
http://www.napaonline.com/NOLPPSE/(S...769_0006544748
For the first one, you will also need a micrometer to go with it. If you do a search for them on there you will find a bunch of different sizes to choose from.

 

I now have a question regarding weather. Right now it is about -30ºc (not sure what that is in F) but it is freaking cold! Should i bring the blocks temp up to room temp when measured since the metal is probably contracted?

 

I am going to say that is probably a good idea, and -30C is Damn cold, its 17F here (-8C) and that is too damn cold for me.

 

hahaha yah i went to remove the headbolts today and i haven't bought a space heater yet. Needless to say i lasted just long enough to get half of them removed before i went jetting into my house and decided i no longer wanted to work on my motor until i buy a heater.

 

You can probably get away with using a "cheap" bore gage as long as it's repeatable. Mitutoyo is what I have access to but it's not very cheap. It just has to cover ~.100" range or less, but has to be able to operate in the diameters you intend to use (Say for instance 81mm-90mm or so) and should have accuracy to ±.0001" and resolution to .0001".

I use a 3-4" OD micrometer to "zero" the bore gage at a given piston diameter. Then I use the bore gage on the block and see how far from zero the bore is relative to the piston diameter (piston to wall clearance).

Enco is fine but a lot of Swiss, German or Japanese stuff will get the job done. Personally I avoid the Chinese stuff. Vinuneuro is right though. You can spend as much as you want but unless you intend to do a lot of engines it's usually more practical/cheaper to take it to a shop.

I would definately not set the PtoW clearances at -30˚C. Bring that block inside or warm up the garage to 20˚C or so to set your clearances.

-Pirate

 

No it isn't. It consists mainly of mineral spirits (same stuff as the Stoddard solvent you'll find in a parts washer) and mineral oil.

WD-40 is used to disperse water.

 

Thanks for the reply pirate.

I am going to have to buy these soon now

i pulled the head off my motor today to discover this. Scaring on cylinder 1. looks like i am going forged.

 

Why..just overbore .25mm and use oem OS pistons.

 

thats the plan, mahle gold series 87.25mm pistons 11.5 comp.

 

x2

Also I thought that all aluminum blocks and heads could not be hot tanked. They need to go in the pressure washer. Hot tanking i was told is reserved for cast.

 

many luders have had their blocks hot tanked to clean all the burnt oil away. Some have gone as far as acid washing them afterwards to get all the grime off the exterior.

 

actually im remembering this now. You can not hot tank aluminum. Your supposed to use only soap and water. If they just dropped it off at a machine shop they used this machine that basically just sprays hot water and spins the block around. It works well i used it on my block about a year or so ago.

http://www.goodson.com/technical_sup...k_solution.php

Have ppl done it...yes. Does that mean its correct ? No

 

That must be what all the machine shops have been doing and people have just been using that term. I have for years just heard that term being tossed around so i figured thats what it is called. I'll just call it a soapy bath now haha.

 

i think its called the jet washer

 

just wondering b/c i have heard this from other topics on here, can you get rid of the FRM sleeves on a H22A?

 

Yes, it's called sleeving. Next time if your question is unrelated to the thread topic, search to find the answer (and you usually will, such as this question). If you're not able to, make a new thread.