i have cleend checked wires and put 12 volts to the silonoid and it works i get the cel code 14 could my ecu be fuked and still throw the code also is there a way to check the iacv other than the way i did it thanks. the car is a 93 hatch with b18a boosted and im runing a p28 with ectune pro and i know i can turn off the cel but the idle wile cold is **** and i want to fix it

 

When the engine is running, uncouple the EACV 2P connector. You should measure 12V from the Yel/Blk wire of the connector. If not, check for an open between the EACV and main relay.

 

eacv witch one is that i got iacv tps

 

EACV is just another name for the IACV.

 

thats what i thought and i have 12v at yellow what is blue and yellow suposed to reed i know its ground but its controled by ecu

 

The Blu/Yel ground wire running to the ECU should read 0V. The ECU controls the EACV by serving as a ground source. Therefore, check whether the Blu/Yel wire between the EACV and and ECU has either an open or short.

 

no short in it thats y i thought it might be ecu but if it was wouldnt it not show the code

 

A bad Blu/Yel wire or ECU could throw code 14.

 

i put power to one end of the blue/yellow and tested other end at ecu and it was good and yes the ecu was unpluged is there a way to test the iacv other than actuating it with 12v and a ground

 

The fact that it clicks when given power suggests it may be okay. Can you swap in a known good IACV?

 

im trying to find one

 

Have you ohm tested the sensor yet?

 

no what should it read

 

i was hopeing some one would know the answer to that

 

Oh god, let me get my Hayne's manual out for another person that's too cheap to buy one:

Resistance should be between 8-15 ohms between the middle terminal and each of the outer terminals. Also, check for continuity between each terminal and ground. There should be no continuity. You should see battery voltage at the middle terminal also.

I believe that's right anyways. I know the EG's IACV is different from the EK's IACV though. Not sure about the Integra's, but I'd imagine the values should be the same.

 

The EACV of 5th generation Civics has a 2P connector.

 

Yea, I figured that when I looked at the pictures in my EG's Hayne's manual. The EK's IACV is a 3P connector though, but I'm too lazy to run out to the garage and grab my EK Hayne's manual. Those should be the correct numbers and pinouts though.

 

ok i got 0 betwen the two pins

 

what should the meter be set on 20m ohms or like 2k ohms

 

is there a way to check out put of ecu ground

 

Meter should be at lowest setting, that way you can see minor changes in the resistance readings.

How many pins does your IACV have?

 

2 and it should resd 11.5 on the lowest setting i only get .000 so it should be set to read 00.00 right

 

Usually you have 20, 200, 2,000, 20,000, etc. Set it on 20. That's if you don't have an autoranging multimeter though.

If yours is two pin, then it's like my EG one.

Measure the voltage between the positive (yellow/black) wire on the connector and body ground. You should see battery voltage. Then using an ohmeter, measure the resistance between the two terminals on the actual valve itself. It should be 8-15 ohms. Then, check for continuity between the terminals on the IACV and ground. There should be no continuity.

Taken directly from the Hayne's manual.

 

iv got 20m ohm 200k 20k 2k 200 ohm so not sure witch of these dont use it much i have power on the yellow with black and no short between blue with yellow and ecu so its just the setting on meter for ohms on the meter for the valve termanals. at 20m ohm reading 0 at 200k reading 0 at 20k reading 0.01 at 2k reading .013 at 200 ohm reading 13.0 if that helps. what about reading the ground out put on blue with yellow from ecu

 

The setting at 200 Ohms is appropriate. This setting gave you a 13 Ohm reading, which is within specification. Try obtaining a known good ECU to swap in to look for a fix.