im ready too build my intake system for my h22. 1st is choosing a manifold too start with. im currently running the JDM manifold (obd1 92-96) that came with tthe swap.

note: ITBs are out of the question.

plans are too get whichever manifold ported, polished/extrude honed and everything portmatched. i have friends who are smart with the b series, but they cant give me honest answers with the h series manifold because of the style of it.

should i start work on the skunk2 or jdm manifold? s2 manis i cant get cheap and itll be reworked on the insides anyways so im not worried how dirty it is as long as its not physically damaged. MY guess is ill get more power doing work too the jdm manifold.

i dont understand the "secondaries" or "butterflies". why not just take them out? whats with the blacktrax spacer? it adds volume too the maifold, but dont you want as much as a straight shot too the runners? throttle body spacers are **** from what ive read.....am i correct on that? any other tips or tricks? the euro r is out of the question also. the skunk2 is almost the same design, and bolts on......i can find them used for the same price.

the more i read i think the Blacktrax stage 4 is what im looking for. im almost sure itd put more power than a worked s2 mani.


also, is a throttle body a throttle body or are they're things too look for other than just size? i want a 70mm+ since i will be spraying. rather it be bigger than i need than smaller. im already runnin an intake thats .5" too small..


i also understand on a stock motor this wont add as much power as if it was built. i want too get this out of the way before i build the head and add pistons. portmatching and tuning is key.

my account is ****ed up and prevents me from searching. when it shows up with the search results it says too log in, and wont let me change my password. please dont flame on me for searching. ive googled what i can, but am finding post from 02 and 03. i want more up to date info.

 

So what does the rest of your build consist of? Everything has to work together, you can't just bolt on some highly modded intake manifold to a stock head and expect anything to happen (for example), or you don't want some IM with long runners for top end power on an engine that has a lower red line that what the IM is made for (also for example).

 

A high flowing intake helps any motor. If you can look up a Euro R manifold too. I've read here numurous times that it out performs all IMs. I would go with either manifold you choose, the blacktrax spacer/spacers, and the 70mm+ throtle body for sure if you can afford all of it.

Also you will likely want to tune your setup if you havn't already. You mentioned spraying but if you intend only to tune when you do that, than may as well wait untill than to tune. If your waiting a while to spray though get a tune up and running asap with your intake upgraded.

Especially seeing your an h22 you can squeeze out a few free horsies with a good tune on your stock setup actually (20hp is a number thrown out alot, not sure if its accurate, just from a stock setup). So with your intake and a tune you should net around 200+ no problem, whp.

If its just friends porting/polishing your IM/ etc, than make sure you flow bench periodically during the process(oh and if you flow bench they will have to take a reference reading from stock intake to compair to your modified versions) . If they arn't professionals or havn't worked with h-series they could be making things worse off. There are posts I believe in here possibly about porting/polishing in here, I'll try to find the posts and plant them here as you mentioned you cannot search. Also to other readers if you know of any information on porting/polishing of IMs / intake components please chime in here, it would be appreciated by me aswell. I'll likely be pulling my intake for cleaning and some other things so may as well pick this up now.

 

For the most part all you should really worry about is getting a nice port and polish job done on the head and have it port matched to the IM.

Stock IM's are great to work with, cause you already have one, no need to spend 500 bucks on a new one so that you can grab a whopping couple extra ponies. Just moddify your stock IM for a couple hundred bucks, and you will be good. ESP if your going to go N/A route.

 

If you are looking for a custom manifold, that will be the last thing that you want before you tune. If you are after some additional ponies from better flow, then you could either do some head work or swap out the intake manifold for a skunk2 or whatever. For the best hp for the dollar, do some port matching and a PNP.

As for the throttle body, it's only going to move as much air as your intake piping. Having a tb that is smaller than the intake piping can cause restriction, and a tb that is too large with cause poor throttle response.

 

right now im plannin my build for my income tax.
as of now the sketch book looks like:

arp rod bolts, head, main studs
mahle golds
hondata intake manifold
skunk valve train
havent chosen cams
headwork.

im doing my intake assembly untill then. i know tuning is a must. i asked a well known tuner (on here. rather not discuss names) about tuning my current setup (greddy header & aem short ram) just too get what i can out of the stock motor and have everything re-tunable and he wouldnt do it. "not enough mods. get a manifold, header, and cams". ive seen him tune a stock gsr and get 19hp from it. my motor runs extremely well for being stock. bigs cams on a stock motor wont work very well. not enough compression for what the cams were designed for. so pistons are a must. if im going too get cams, might as well get a valve train. if everything is going too be apart, might as well get it machined. its a domino effect.

i can built my intake assembly now being stock. i know it wont make much more power, but when i get my work done, itll already be finished. it has too help some.

about the bottle. it wont be a 100% nitrous motor. just "grudge" sprays everynow and then. a friend of mine had his car tuned with a "flip chip". not sure what company, but one tune was all motor, the other was a nitrous tune. i was looking at something like that. this is all the planning stages. my intake system is step one for me.


also i understnad about the intake piping. im using my old intake that was on my f22 and found out its 1/2 inch too small. sooo.....im doing some research on which intake too use cause ill be swapping my motor into an eg soon. they say the prelude intake works, but i want a cold air set-up for top end. Short ram is no big deal. ive just always prefered a cold air set up.

 

x100

Why is this not an option for you? Why try to re-invent the wheel?

 

i understand its a great design. BUT my reasoning for it not being at the top of the list is its almost the same as the skunk manifold. i can find a skunk manifold easier than a euro r. and the skunk will bolt up. new for new the euro r is slightly cheaper with the conversion components. i have the website booked on my computer.

the more i read, the more i kinda stand by mystatement that ill get more power out of my worked manifold than a worked euro r. this is a discussion, not an argument, so im not knocking anyones opinions, or i wouldnt have asked for them. all points are noted.

 

Well then I applaud your effort and wish you luck with your results, but I still firmly believe the proven results of many Euro-R users. I believe if there were something better out there, or if someone could develop something better themself, then it would have been widely documented by now.

P.S. Short ram intakes make more top-end power, and CAI's make better mid range torque. It has to do with fluid dynamics and sonic reversion wave theory.

 

Get the Euro R Intake! It gives increase in usable power band. There is dyno results posted on this.

If you get a skunk2 from what I have seen it works well with turbo builds and a very few fully built na setups

 

The only thing Skunk2 and the Euro R manifold have in common is that they are single runner plenum-style manifolds. Their designs are completely different and they make power in completely different powerbands.

There is more than enough information to determine that the euro r is generally the best choice, if between the two.

EDIT: That being said the euro r delivers a much more usable increase in efficiency for daily driving.

Butterflies/Secondaries are plates that block some air from going into each runner, cutting down the air that is crammed into each cylinder. When they open(usually at a certain high rpm like 5k) they allow more air to be added to the combustion chamber generating more power which offers a nice increasing power curve.

 

i found a post that 2point6 says hes dyno'd all 3 and his choice would be a worked jdm mani. it is a good point that if there was something better, it would have been documented by now. also i though cold air systems made better top end and short ram was lower, with better throttle response.....thats for a whole nother discussion. ill do a bit more research tonight when i get in from work and maybe i can better prove my reasoning. though the euro r is comming into focus.

 

ok. after hours of reading....and reading...and reading....i cant do it anymore. im crosseyed and im not comprehending what im reading, lol. time for a break.

the only conclusion is that the euro r is better than i thought. they all seem too have their perks. they all (to me) seem too make power at diffent times. im talking too my friend about where i want my power too be. im going too take a break and be on in a bit.

 

with cams and 11:0cr, I think a blacktrax stage 3 manifold is the best.

 

https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda-prelude-4/measurements-info-oem-h22-plenum-1837017/
i'm prolly wrong, but what i got from this is, large plenums are best for turbo applications and long runners are for top end. short runners give lower-midrange power with greater throttle response.....like itb's....am i on the right track? i was told that its best too have my power where i lose power when i shift.....so from vtec too redline (5200-7500ish). so i want my power in the upper rpms.

SOOOOO........
from my AMATURE conclusion:

the skunk2 makes the same if not less power than the euro r. the euro r has the long runners needed for higher rpms, smaller plenum (thats better for all motor and im trying too figure out why exactly) and other little perks (like injector angles).

the stock manifold with some blacktrax spacers would be ideal for turbo.....by adding volume too the plenum.


i retract my previous statement/decision. AS OF NOW im opting for the euro r.

 

Generally speaking, larger plenums are good for FI, smaller plenums for N/A. Longer narrow runners are good for mid-range power because they promote air velocity, and short wide runners are good for top end because they promote high volume air flow.

This is why dual runner manifolds with butterflies close off the short runners at low rpm, increasing velocity through the long narrow runners, then open up the butterflies to utilize the shorter runners at high rpm for maximum air flow.

 

your main problem

 

thats a whole nother thread. i havent even really looked. i did about a year ago....crower vs. skunk2. ive personally had great results with crower....for non vtec motors. and have seen the s2's in action in the vtec motors...

my friends is very knowledgable about cam choices, but i ahvent had a chance too sit with him and pick out one for me. the mahle 11.3 cr pistons are a sure thing. flat valves and head milled .010 too make sure its all straight. adj cam gears will make up for the resurfacing.

 

Don't mill the head unless you know something is wrong; there is no need if an engineer' ruler says it is flat.

Cam choices? Jun3. If you want a good known powerband w/o a lot of hassle. If you want to do some serious porting and maximize Skunk 2 Pro series.

 

jun cams are super expensive. i would go that route if it was just a drag car. skunk2, crower, or Brian crower are the 3 im looking at.

 

that logic doesn't make sense, and you can't really say you're looking at S2s crowers and BCs because for the S2s thats what, 6 different cams?

 

i meant brands. i should have clarified. im hoping too come too a decision this weekend.