Crazy revs
Happy New Year
Guys I have another problem.
My 90 Accord LX is acting funny. We had a long spell of frigid weather and perhaps its why.
In the mornings or when its cold my car starts up all right but after about a minute it starts to REV up going from low idle to about 3 1/2 and then back to low and up again. This goes on for about 10 minutes and then its okay.
I can smell oil burning and the temp seems to climb very gradually to a peak and then down to mid way.
I hope its not the engine or a major problem . I believe the fluid levels are okay not sure about the coolant Please help
Derek
Guys I have another problem.
My 90 Accord LX is acting funny. We had a long spell of frigid weather and perhaps its why.
In the mornings or when its cold my car starts up all right but after about a minute it starts to REV up going from low idle to about 3 1/2 and then back to low and up again. This goes on for about 10 minutes and then its okay.
I can smell oil burning and the temp seems to climb very gradually to a peak and then down to mid way.
I hope its not the engine or a major problem . I believe the fluid levels are okay not sure about the coolant Please help
Derek
You must be sure there is no air in the coolong system, this will cause fuel cut strategy as you are experiencing. Many items will cause fuel cut to occur, what is happening is the RPM goes up too high so the computer cuts fuel injection since the speedo is not telling the computer the car is moving. When the idle gets too low and near stalling, then the computer turns injection back on.
I am not home to give you my usual list of suspects but you throttle body should have two large holes just inside the entrence of the body, cover one hole with your finger and then the other, if the idle stops fluxing then that hole is bleeding air to a bad part, either the IACV or Fast Idle Control Valve, your FICV may be at a different location on the intake manifold so you would remove the cover held on with two screws and cover the top with a rag stuffed in the top section pretty snuggly, this type is adjustable but lets see what you find with your finger method or rag method.
I am not home to give you my usual list of suspects but you throttle body should have two large holes just inside the entrence of the body, cover one hole with your finger and then the other, if the idle stops fluxing then that hole is bleeding air to a bad part, either the IACV or Fast Idle Control Valve, your FICV may be at a different location on the intake manifold so you would remove the cover held on with two screws and cover the top with a rag stuffed in the top section pretty snuggly, this type is adjustable but lets see what you find with your finger method or rag method.
Thanks Duane
I did not know where to look. I'm so embarrassed to say
What I did find was that for some reason my antifreeze level was very low. I topped it up. It took about 2L. I let it sit for a while while I topped the oil. That brought the temp down and within a short while the revs stopped. It has been driving smoothly.
Except I get this squeaking sound as I first start up and when its cold or dry.
One more thing
Water has been running down my trunk each time I open it. It pours out from the PZ tail light assy. I replaced the seals ( new over the old) and ( new by itself ) but it still drips
What could it be?
I did not know where to look. I'm so embarrassed to say
What I did find was that for some reason my antifreeze level was very low. I topped it up. It took about 2L. I let it sit for a while while I topped the oil. That brought the temp down and within a short while the revs stopped. It has been driving smoothly.
Except I get this squeaking sound as I first start up and when its cold or dry.
One more thing
Water has been running down my trunk each time I open it. It pours out from the PZ tail light assy. I replaced the seals ( new over the old) and ( new by itself ) but it still drips
What could it be?
The old seals could be keeping the new seals from doing a good job of sealing. YOu will need to completely clean up the old stuff and reapply the new seals, give that a try and see what happens. There still may be a crack someplace that is hard to see???
Keep an eye on your radiator coolant actually in the radiator, not the bottle, for a little while to see if you can notice a leak, keep it topped up as there still may be air in the cooling system, once you are sure all the air is out then you can monitor the bottle level for signs of a leak.
Keep an eye on your radiator coolant actually in the radiator, not the bottle, for a little while to see if you can notice a leak, keep it topped up as there still may be air in the cooling system, once you are sure all the air is out then you can monitor the bottle level for signs of a leak.
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colecooper
Honda Accord (1990 - 2002)
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Aug 15, 2017 08:23 AM



