HI all, I just signed up on honda-tech and I would like to appologize now for the supa-noob question I'm about to throw at you. Now I know this has been covered, and I've searched. I've been searching for an hour now, but I cannot find the answer to my question.

Here it is:

Will the manual timing belt tensioner out of an F22 work in place of the manual tensioner from an H23? I want to swap the auto adjuster out of the H22 in my accord over to a manual one since I'm in there and have 2 F22's sitting on the floor I can steal parts from.

I've searched the internet high and low. I've found many people asking the same question as me, but no-one got a solid response. I doubt I'll get one as well, but here's to trying.

Thanx in advance.

Hey also, since I"m here... Has anyone else had to replace the "case set" on their H22? This is why I had to do the t-belt. The pully siezed up snapping the balancer shaft belt. Does this part fail regularly?

 

Yes the F22 t belt tensioner works, but only if it has the hole on the backside with a bolt holding it in place. you also need a few more parts to make it all work.





This is from the H23. you need #20 and two #24, 1 #25 and 1 #26. I would recommend using the H23 tensioner because bolt #26 holds the back end of the tensioner. I cant remember if the F22 has that hole behind the tensioner but if it does, you can use it. It doesnt show in the pic below but that doesnt mean it isnt there. You'll also need washer #30.





This is the F22. If you have any questions on this let me know. Ill answer you other question in a bit.

 

As far as the case set (#2) and seizure problems, i for one have owned (3) and worked on several H22 motors (more than i can remember) and never seen this happen before. Unless someone chimes in with a similar issue i havent seen it happen before. Did any moisture get in there? How about the timing cover seal was it broken or was your car lowered and you went through some deep water at some point? is it rusted?

 

use the h23 setup

 

Thanx for the info, top notch.

The only rust I found inside the timing cover was a tiny bit on the crank nose on the key and keyway. Everything else was nice and clean. There was however a fair amount of rust on the crankpulley, I suspect it got there because the engine was sitting in a shop for 4 months and wasn't covered well. The seal on the t-cover is good condition. The seal on the case set housing was cooked into the block and it appeared to have blown; all the oil leaked out, this I assume happened after the belt snapped. I've replaced all of the seals under the cover just in case, but do you think there could be a larger problem further in? I don't understand what the case set drives, is it just a balancing shaft or part of the oil delivery?

I'll run you through what happened.

Everything seemed fine, there was a bit of a vibration during idle that started a few weeks earlier, but it wasn't anything bad. We were at a red light, it turned green, I hit the gas. Just when I got up to speed (60kmh) the oil light came on and I stopped. When I got it home I figured I blew out the crank seal, thats when I found the broken belt. I checked everything and the case set was siezed solid. The shaft it drives turns free and easy, it was just the pulley side that siezed. The set also sat at the same height as the oil, nothing above the motor mount was soaked.


As for my tensioner, I'll just put it back the way it was. I don't have the time to track down h23 parts.

 

I wouldnt suspect that there is a bigger issue. Maybe the seal behind it just gave way. It only turns the rear balance shaft, if it didnt turn the only thing that would happen is that balance shaft wouldnt turn and the motor would vibrate. Oil does squirt in there but the belt snapping wouldnt hurt it unless of course, and youre lucky, it didnt slap around and start knocking around on your timing parts.

At least you didnt suffer my brothers fate. On his H22 2 years ago the rear balnce shaft bearings (3 of them located in the block) came out and started breaking everything. In the end it took out the whole oil jet assembly, two rods and the bottom of two pistons, as well as tearing up the ENTIRE rear of the motor.

How long did you drive after you discovered it? Because i would check the upper end if it were dry. Just looking out for you bro

 

After she dropped the oil, I drove straight home. It was only running for about 15min after the prob. I also had a bunch of oil with me, I topped it off once on the way.. I'm pretty good a preserving my cars when they break, but thanks for the concern.

 

Just making sure No one would be that crazy anyways but then again here on honda-tech theres guys that would make you cringe

 

Crazyness. So hey, now I have a new problem... I just finished up the job, got it all together and as I was topping off the coolant it all started leaking out from the timing cover. Traced the leak back to the main bolt on the timing belt adjuster. It's pouring coolant out from where it threads in. When I pulled it all apart the coolant leaked out from that spot as well, I just forgot about it since all the other hassels I came accross. Is coolant supposed to leak from there or did I crack my block?

 

Nevermind, it's the waterpump. I cracked it during disassembly... grrr