Can anyone tell me why the throttle position sensor is riveted to the throttle body? Does it make a difference if a dumbf#$k mechanic (not naming any shop in Buffalo Lake MN) drills out the rivets and bolts in a different throttle position sensor?

I'm getting the revving during warm idle. The RPMs bounce from 1K to 1.5K steady. The shifting is a bit jerky sometimes like the throttle's not all the way closed when you are decelerating and then start to accelerate again. It's an automatic tranny just for everyone's info. The car's got 145k on it, and the motor is an original honda build with 30k on it. The engine's a 2.3L H23A1. I'm unsure of the year of the motor that was installed, but the

I've replaced the idle control valve, cause I took it to a buddy at a local Honda dealership. He's the head mechanic there so I trust his diagnosis. He said the trouble codes show that the fast idle valve and the idle control valves should be replaced. He removed the idle control valve and the fast idle valve and tried plugging the holes with his fingers and the idle went down to around normal, so he said they both seem to be leaking or bad.

Can anyone give me some advice? I'd like to repair this so I can sell the car soon. I'm kind of in need of the money.

 

If it's adjusted right and the throttle position sensor itself is good then no, it's not a problem. It's riveted to make sure it doesn't get adjusted from the factory (Honda sells the whole TB as an assembly at great cost for TPS replacements).

You can check to see if things are in order with a multimeter.

A vacuum leak would be what I'd imagine is wrong. Which could very well be a bad FITV or IACV, or something else. What check engine codes are you throwing?


If I was in your situation I'd make sure the TPS was outputting what it should, then I'd block off the FITV (fast idle thermo valve, which is mechanical based on coolant temp), and at that point consider replacing the IACV (idle air control valve, which is controlled by the ECU) if I still had a problem.

 

yeah its because he moved it. if u dont have a multimetter. just move the tps around tighten it and start the car to see if it starts to bounce. im 100% sure thats ur problem.

 

another way to see is unplug the tps sensor plug and see what happens u might have to shut the car off and then start it up again or rev it a little bit. if it stops then thats ur tps also.

 

Anybody have some quick instructions on how to test the throttle position sensor? I'll search the posts for some instructions. I have a multimeter and understand its basic use, so... I'd like to try that first before I sink any more parts money in to the problem.

Thanks for the fast reply!

 

There are a lot of posts about regarding how to test it, and the voltages you want to see at 0% throttle and 100% throttle. I haven't had to do it, Neptune basically just tells me if I need to adjust it or not.

 

just try this. im guessing there isnt any rivets on it now and just screws or somthing right?

loosen the tps. and say if u were standing in front of the car turn the tps all the way clockwise. until it stops cuz there is room for it to move around cuz of the slits. tighten it down. start the car. see what it does. if not u can move it around other places and try it. just to see if this is the problem then afterward test it..

or search there are tons of threads. ur going tto want to probe the middle wire on the tps while its plugged into the sensor. there is a reading for when its WOT and when its idle. id ont know the specs of my head but they are easy to find.

 

tizzakowack's suggestion will work. If you have a volt meter there is another way thats more accurate and faster than trial by error. At each posistion of throtle the sensor is like a variable resistor that when rotated will change resistance and than alter voltage output. This varrying output is read by the ecu and responds by adding or subtracting fuel. You have to read up on what voltage you are suppose to get at wot and perhaps at idle as a referance ( I believe, I haven't actually read the TPS troubleshooting) I do remember .47 volts but I don't remember if that was at wot or idle. Someone else chime in with the values please. I read all day pretty much (electrical code book, prints, shematics at work , than **** loads of automotive tech manuals after work) so I'm not gonna read up for it.