First off, it was a great weekend overall. Brinson and I had a great battle the last few laps on saturday when my car started going away. It was LOOOOOSE. Sunday's race started off well for me. I got a good launch, and the first 3 laps went okay, but around the 4th lap (I think), the car just wouldn't turn. AT ALL. I was going through some turns at 20-25 mph, uttering words that would make my mother turn white in horror.

After the race, Corey suggested that I look at my Skunk2 camber kit. No way, I thought. I loctited the crap out of them. Driver's side was good. Passenger's side was slid in almost to full negative. Craptastic.

Well. I just got him a little while ago. Me and my crew member, Chris Dodge, rolled the car off the trailer. Before it went into the garage, I looked at the camber up front. I'm guessing that I have at least 5-6 degrees of negative camber on the passenger's side, and the front is toed-in bigtime

I see JB Weld and a giant hammer in the near future.

Warren

 

Warren, I've actually been thinking about this situation after I chewed up a tire at Jefferson due to a kit that slipped full positive... and yes, loctite (red) was used. Maybe we should move up to an even higher-strength formula...

What about inserting bolts through the adjustment grooves and tightening them down. The idea is not so much to hold the thing in place, but to serve as a fallback in-case it starts slipping. They would fill the gap and, if sized right, allow minimum slippage... some probably, but a little is better than a lot. The thought just came to me this past weekend and I haven't had a chance to look at the arm to see if it's really feasible. If I'm having problems on Azenis, then god help anyone running race tires with them.

 

You know what really pisses me off, is that I didn't even go off track. I may have bounced off a curb or two... or three... but I never road the hellish CMP gators or anything.

Check the top of your wheel well to see if the a arm bottomed out. I'm going to clean the retarded *** powder coating off the seating area and then I'm going to bolt it down tight w/ loctite whatever color works like welding. Then I think I'm going to add some JB Weld around the bolt. **** this. I want my alignment at -2 static. No more. No less.

Warren

 

speed wire them bishes....

 

I dont think its the bolts that are coming loose, but the paint that strips, no?

*Matt, who is following this thread intently cause his "new" car came with Skunk 2 adjustable UCAs*

 

Use a Dremel and "notch" the area around the adjusting "slots"

That, and go get some BOLTS and trash those allen heads..


Worked for me so far.

 

*jots down*

 

Have Walt Puckett make you some slightly offset delrin upper control arm bushings. Install stock control arms.

That ain't slidin' nowhere.

 

Chit! and Acuraracer112 just bought a set of these... doooooooh.

 

Warren-
You should not need any JB weld or a pint of Locktite. Try replacing the little lock washers with the star type, they will bite into the metal and not allow slipping. I did not have any of these problems with the star washers and as far as I know Chris has not had any difficulties with them either.

 

and i thought it was just me seeing things, but you could see warren's wheel turned to the left going into T1 and the car not turning...

 

Warren, are the allens staying tight but still sliding in the slots? If so, I agree with others that you need to improve the clamping by removing the paint and using better washers; larger ones and/or the star type.


[Modified by Track rat, 1:28 PM 8/6/2002]

 

I'll look at mine... I didnt notice any slippage. I changed out to Skunk because King could get me any ball joints for their ones. However they look almost identical.
they were also a lot cheaper.

King RAT.

 

it seems to me that these adjustable upper a-arms are somewhat of an inferior design to begin with. Wouldnt some sort of design with a threaded fitting to adjust camber be better and less prone to slip? Trying to clamp down a part of the suspension that sees pretty big loads like that isnt the best solution, IMHO.

 

In some ways, yes it would be better to have them threaded. If you have $600 you can buy a set. I forget the name.

The disadvantage of those is you have to unbolt the arm to make an adjustment. I think Skunk probably opted for easier adjustment.

 

why would you have to unbolt the arm? I would think a setup like that could be made and adjusted like tie rod ends to adjust toe.

 

Maybe you could. Here's a picture of the only kit I've seen like this. It's made by A-sports. This is not an integra arm...(looks like a prelude front? maybe EK?)... but you get the picture. As you can see, they use a heim-style end meaning you could only adjust it by having it unbolted.

Maybe the integra arm is designed differently. I see what you're saying though, and it seems possible...




[Modified by JeffS, 11:42 AM 8/6/2002]

 

do you have to unbolt it because there's no clearance to adjust it?

At any rate... i should design a 'proper' adjustable A-Arm for those cars....

 

You have to unbolt it because it is threaded at one end only - to adjust it on the car, it would need to be capable of rotating at both ends (arm end and mount end).

 

The only way that this can be adjust while still on the car is if the bronze colored bolt rotates freely(floating). Thus spinning the bronze bolt can move the mount in or out.

 

They should make that like the steering rods where it can be adjusted on the car.

 

thats what i said...

 

any reason why you guys dont use camber plates?

 

 

Scoobie guys don't understand... Camber plate won't do anything for a car with Dual A arms...


[Modified by Honda318dx, 2:43 PM 8/6/2002]