post all h22a into civic info here please
i know there are alot of posts about this swap, i myself and many others are doing this swap currently
if you could post all the info you know, what you went through, what parts you used in your swap(axels, mount kit etc..) what stuff you didnt like and why
this would be greatly appreciated
if you could post all the info you know, what you went through, what parts you used in your swap(axels, mount kit etc..) what stuff you didnt like and why
this would be greatly appreciated
****, this isn't your lucky day. i just had a ****** business report on this swap 3/4 finished and i lost it........i'm not typing it again.
if you have any single questions just IM me.
if you have any single questions just IM me.
here it is. if anyone asks about this swap again, i'll lose it!
Car: 92 Civic CX
Motor: 95 H22A
Mounts: Hasport
Axles: I used 90-93 Integra with a 90-93 Accord Int. shaft. (Haven’t had any problems with fitment or breakage)
Mounting the motor: it doesn’t matter whether you put it in down through the top or up through the bottom of the car. People say it’s hard to put it in from the top of the car, but they’re stupid. I put it in by way of the top. Just keep the transmission mount off until you get the transmission under the passenger frame rail, then bolt the mount on. The rest will be easy to bolt up. Just follow the instructions that come with the mount kit.
Linkage: use Prelude linkage. You’ll have to cut a hole in the “tunnel” under the car to feed the linkage into the passenger compartment. When you get to this step you’ll see what you have to do. It’s pretty self-explanatory. Just make sure you hold the linkage taught (tight) in the car while setting up your shift box. Then drill the holes and bolt the box down.
ECU and wiring: use the same ECU as the motor and distributor for best results and less headache. It will be easiest to get someone to make you a custom wire harness (hasport). Don’t try it on your own if you have to use these directions. To wire up the knock sensor, you’ll have to pull the wire out of the ECU wire harness in position (i forget should be red), and plug it into the empty space in the D3 position of the ECU wire harness. The VTEC wires should be included in the custom harness. There should be instructions included with your harness.
Misc: be careful to hook the plugs to the correct sensors. Many of the plugs have the capability of plugging into different sensors. MAP, TPS, and EGR are the same. IAT, Knock and IACV are the same. Even though knock is only 1 wire and the IAT and IACV are 2, they can still be plugged into one another. VTEC oil pressure and ECT are also the same. You should be able to distinguish though because VTEC plug should be green. You’ll also need a better radiator and a slim fan. You need the slim fan because the slave cylinder is all up in the fan. I’m using fluidyne for both. For hoses, a 94 Accord EX lower hose fits perfect and a 95 Prelude upper hose with about 1” cut off will fit good. Then get heater hoses for an H22 to go to the heater box.
Exhaust: I’m using DC header for H22 and a Thermal cat back for Civic w/no cat. You’ll have to get the flanges cut off and put identical ones on to match so you can bolt the downpipe to the cat unless you have a cat from an H22.
[Modified by Salvatore Leone, 3:18 PM 8/8/2002]
Car: 92 Civic CX
Motor: 95 H22A
Mounts: Hasport
Axles: I used 90-93 Integra with a 90-93 Accord Int. shaft. (Haven’t had any problems with fitment or breakage)
Mounting the motor: it doesn’t matter whether you put it in down through the top or up through the bottom of the car. People say it’s hard to put it in from the top of the car, but they’re stupid. I put it in by way of the top. Just keep the transmission mount off until you get the transmission under the passenger frame rail, then bolt the mount on. The rest will be easy to bolt up. Just follow the instructions that come with the mount kit.
Linkage: use Prelude linkage. You’ll have to cut a hole in the “tunnel” under the car to feed the linkage into the passenger compartment. When you get to this step you’ll see what you have to do. It’s pretty self-explanatory. Just make sure you hold the linkage taught (tight) in the car while setting up your shift box. Then drill the holes and bolt the box down.
ECU and wiring: use the same ECU as the motor and distributor for best results and less headache. It will be easiest to get someone to make you a custom wire harness (hasport). Don’t try it on your own if you have to use these directions. To wire up the knock sensor, you’ll have to pull the wire out of the ECU wire harness in position (i forget should be red), and plug it into the empty space in the D3 position of the ECU wire harness. The VTEC wires should be included in the custom harness. There should be instructions included with your harness.
Misc: be careful to hook the plugs to the correct sensors. Many of the plugs have the capability of plugging into different sensors. MAP, TPS, and EGR are the same. IAT, Knock and IACV are the same. Even though knock is only 1 wire and the IAT and IACV are 2, they can still be plugged into one another. VTEC oil pressure and ECT are also the same. You should be able to distinguish though because VTEC plug should be green. You’ll also need a better radiator and a slim fan. You need the slim fan because the slave cylinder is all up in the fan. I’m using fluidyne for both. For hoses, a 94 Accord EX lower hose fits perfect and a 95 Prelude upper hose with about 1” cut off will fit good. Then get heater hoses for an H22 to go to the heater box.
Exhaust: I’m using DC header for H22 and a Thermal cat back for Civic w/no cat. You’ll have to get the flanges cut off and put identical ones on to match so you can bolt the downpipe to the cat unless you have a cat from an H22.
[Modified by Salvatore Leone, 3:18 PM 8/8/2002]
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the tone is kind of annoying now. it got a little higher than it was when it was new. i can't tell how good it is performance wise because i didn't have anything before it. it looks nice though; high quality.
As for that I have asked and asked but no one seems to really know and I dont want to be the first ginea pig. I for now use my Shortram from my previous swap.. And yeah its a little dirty..
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291712139
http://www.imagestation.com/album/?id=4291712139
oh any aftermarket intake (hot air) for a civic will work. i don't know which cai will work. i've heard ITR would but i dunno from experience.
anyone used the place racing wiring kit, or shift linkage kit, they told me that i wouldnt have to cut the hole for the linkage with this kit????
kinda off topice but is there a site i can go to, to browse the place racing site cause their site is under construction. Also, who makes the Auto to manual rear tranny mount ? Is it hasport or place racing. Thanks.
http://www.teamdelsol.com/howto/coldair/diycoldair.htm
works great for my car have a small bit of info on my site about intakes
works great for my car have a small bit of info on my site about intakes
wow.....i'm seriously considering an H22 swap now. it seem pretty straight forward. I have seen all of the pros of the swap addressed on this thread, but how about the cons? I have heard something about the engine rotating the wrong way or something, and i also have heard that the weight throws off the handling pretty bad, is this true? and can it be counteracted with some suspension mods. For example....If i wanted to auto-x my H22'ed eg coupe, and i added a fat rear sway bar and adjustable shocks and stiffer springs, would i have any chance of bein competitive? or should i just stick with a B-series swap? thanks
Well Newman made a post about this a while ago. Having a h22a/civic swap myself I see no real weigh interference on the handling of the car. As with any car you want to stablize all four corners and well as have a stiffer sway bar in the rear. Newman had only tokico struts and some springs and handling was good, may have not been the best but it was good.
I will have more to tell on this subject soon as I will be finishing up on the fine details with everything and provide a serious all inclusive write up about the swap..
I will have more to tell on this subject soon as I will be finishing up on the fine details with everything and provide a serious all inclusive write up about the swap..
sweet it seems that people are scared of this swap.......if the handling is good then screw a B20 or any Bseries......sure they are great, but an H22 is mo' betta', at least if you're not wanting to mess with the internals......looks like i will be buildig a H22 powered coupe.....unless they handle bad....cause i gotta auto-x it.....but i would give a little to get a little, cause i do'nt have the cash-flowage to build up a motor to get the same performance as the H22. Well if anyone has done this swap and it totally wacked out their handling let me know.......thanks for info...peace
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