wiring diagram and how to use volt meter please help
hey i have a 92 honda prelude and my parking lights and brake lights just whent out 2 nights ago, its none of the fuses i have checked them all and there all fine. i took off the light switch model and i saw on of the main power connecters is rather friend. but it still gives power checked them both and it read 12.5 and 12 flat with headlights on but nothing happens when i turn on just the parking lights. so what i wanna know is which wires to pintch to see if power is going out of the module for the parking lights. also my dimmer switch isnt working either maybe related to my headlight parking light switch module. need to know if its faulty so i can replace it. thanks for your help guys need an answer asap cant drive at night!!!
Sounds like a bad brake switch.
There is a switch under the dash attached to the brake pedal. If you measure across the switch wires, you will get 12v when the lights are OFF and 0v when the switch closes to turn the brake lights on.
There is a switch under the dash attached to the brake pedal. If you measure across the switch wires, you will get 12v when the lights are OFF and 0v when the switch closes to turn the brake lights on.
if it was a bad brake switch my brakes wouldnt work, and as for that they do work just my parking lights and dirving night lights dont work, nither does my dimmer, dash lights. i just need to know whats the wiring for the handle switch that turns on the parking lights and headlights. the headlights are working, but none of the parking lights are "small lights" and its not a fuse checked them all 10 times.
Headlights-Lo BLUE/RED (-) AT SWITCH
Parking Lights RED/BLACK (+) AT LIGHT SWITCH OR FUSEBOX
Brake Lights GREEN/WHITE (+) AT BRAKE SWITCH
The green/white will test +12v to ground when the peddle is pressed, ground when not pressed. I don't have an exact wiring diagram on hand, but one of the wires in the plug should also read a constant +12.
The parking lights and brake lights are on different circuits. That Parking light wire will trigger a relay, but if both just quit working, it's most likely a fuse somewhere, or a ground that's common between the two.
Parking Lights RED/BLACK (+) AT LIGHT SWITCH OR FUSEBOX
Brake Lights GREEN/WHITE (+) AT BRAKE SWITCH
The green/white will test +12v to ground when the peddle is pressed, ground when not pressed. I don't have an exact wiring diagram on hand, but one of the wires in the plug should also read a constant +12.
The parking lights and brake lights are on different circuits. That Parking light wire will trigger a relay, but if both just quit working, it's most likely a fuse somewhere, or a ground that's common between the two.
i dont know where u guys keep coming up with brake lights... MY BRAKE LIGHTS ARE WORKING MY PARKING AND TAIL LIGHTS ARE NOT!!! TAIL LIGHTS MEANING AT NIGHT WHEN U DRIVE WHEN THEY STAY JUST LIT UP, NOT BRAKE LIGHTS!!! MY BRAKE LIGHTS WORK FINE!!! NOTHING WRONG WITH THE PEDAL ITS THW SWITCH but before going out and buying a switch i wanna make sure thats what it is. so i need to know thw wiring diagram for the light switch so i can test 2 see if power comes out of it when i turn on the parking lights! if power comes out then the problem is elsewhere!!! once again... my BRAKE LIGHTS WORK FINE MY TAIL LIGHTS/ PARKING LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING!!! when i go 2 turn on/off alarm all the lights work but when i do it at the switch they dont cut on.
It is the brake lights...
lol just kidding.
I would tie the 12V to bypass the switch. If the lights come on constant, I would imagine it is the switch. The best option is to download the helms manual. All the electrical is in there.
lol just kidding.
I would tie the 12V to bypass the switch. If the lights come on constant, I would imagine it is the switch. The best option is to download the helms manual. All the electrical is in there.
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If you need the link for the helms manual let me know. Easiest way is to google " spoons helms manual prelude". takes you right to it.
"hey i have a 92 honda prelude and my parking lights and brake lights just whent out 2 nights ago,"
We were going off what you had posted.
Check the parking light wire I listed above and see if that's going to the correct voltage when you turn the parking lights on. If it's not, check for a voltage going into switch. If there is one, your switch is bad. If not, it could be a fuse, broken wire, or something along those lines
We were going off what you had posted.
Check the parking light wire I listed above and see if that's going to the correct voltage when you turn the parking lights on. If it's not, check for a voltage going into switch. If there is one, your switch is bad. If not, it could be a fuse, broken wire, or something along those lines
Where is the alarm's output connected to you parking lights at? I've seen several cases where the wire tap that was used to make the connecting actually broke the wire when it was clamped on, but was still contacting both sides at the time of install so all seemed fine. After a while, only the relay side of the tap was making connection, so the alarm was able to trip the relay, but the light switch could not because of the tap breaking the wire.
Just something to check.
Just something to check.
good advice but where did you get an alarm??? that was never mentioned so its only valid if he has an alarm. also make sure your grounds are good for the lights. it should be right in the middle if the trunk right below the latch bar.
EDIT: ok i see where he says alarm now. my bad
EDIT: ok i see where he says alarm now. my bad
"my BRAKE LIGHTS WORK FINE MY TAIL LIGHTS/ PARKING LIGHTS ARE NOT WORKING!!! when i go 2 turn on/off alarm all the lights work but when i do it at the switch they dont cut on."
T-Taps = the work of the devil. I've had to fix so many cars because of some other installer deciding to use them. Solder + tape or heat shrink is the only way to go if you want to make sure you have a *good* connection.
I would test the wire on both sides of the T-Tap as posted above to make sure the T-Tap didn't cut the wire. It does happen.
T-Taps = the work of the devil. I've had to fix so many cars because of some other installer deciding to use them. Solder + tape or heat shrink is the only way to go if you want to make sure you have a *good* connection.
I would test the wire on both sides of the T-Tap as posted above to make sure the T-Tap didn't cut the wire. It does happen.
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