my car is an 99 civic si. it wont start when its cold. when its was warm it did fine.
so when its cold i go out to start it wont start. cranks and everything but just dont start. i have to leave it on at cranking stage for about 5-10 mins. after the 5-10 min i step on the clutch and recrank it. it starts firing but it takes couple times to make it start. and when it starts its at low rpm and is about to die. if i step on any amount of gas it dies. any help will be fine. i just change the fuel pump to a gsr fuel pump because had it brand new lying around. and i just changed the fuel filter.

 

anyone?

 

1. Why are you cranking the car for 5-10 minutes? You'll fry starters like there's no tomorrow. If you have some cheap autozone lifetime warranty one, they'll reconsider their policies now.
2. Being a manual, you should have to have the clutch pressed in order for it to start.
3. what's the stock fuel pressure for your engine? What's the fuel pressure for the GSR?
4. How long does it run poorly before it starts right up and runs fine (it's implied as you said it did fine when warm)?
5. If warm and cold refers to weather, then check temperature related sensors, as they could be sending a bad signal to the ecu and therefore you won't be getting the right amount of fuel you need.

edit: Use capital letters once in a while. It really helps and makes your post easier to read. At least you don't type with all of the text message acronyms, for which I thank you. writn like ths txting crap n noys me n m portntly maks my bff bby jesus cry ftrot lol rotfl omfgtigii

 

No im not cranking it 5-10 mins. Its on for 5-10 mins at crank. When the vents and stuff works! I think the pressure should be the same for the fuel pumps or little differences. I seen people do Gsr swaps in their Si and don't change the fuel pump and they work fine. I'll look into the sensors if i can find them. LOL where are they?

 

your battery does not have enough cold cranking amps for the tempature outside go to the parts store and get the battery that fits your car with the most cold crank amps as possible it should fix your problem and run you about 60$ maybe

 

agreed... new battery.... i had a similar problem, but it was because my battery cable size was too small... your battery isnt relocated right?

 

No my battery is not relocated. Will this battery works fine for my other cars. I thought the same so i switched it but it still wont start. But ill still look into it. The car do starts i got in on now. but just some hassle be for it does

 

any other?

 

Is the CEL on? Whats the plugs look like? How does it run when its warm? How much gas is in it? Maybe the switch on the clutch is bad or misadjusted?

 

So are you saying that it still cranks strongly, but it won't start? or is it turning over slower then usual. if its cranking at the normal speed and its just having issues starting/holding idle, perhaps the fitv is to blame. it controls idle at cold startup. just a thought.

 

it cranking normal but wont start. and when starts it has idle issues. whats the fitv?

 

oh ok could be fitv iac or fuel pump. id say sounds like normal fuel pump symptoms... extended crank.... your fitv is under your throttle body bore. has some coolant lines running to it. i believe your car doesnt have a fitv though... but im not 100% sure on that. (assuming you have a B16a obd2)

 

I had similar issue a few years ago. It would get cold overnight (not as cold as where you're at) and when I would try and leave for work it would crank normally but not start. I would end up getting a ride and when I got home in the evening it would start right up. This went on for about a week and a half because I didn't have time to mess with it in the morning and it would start when i had time to mess with it. One morning I called in to work and told them I was going to be late because I had to figure this out. After about an hour of messing with it I had the spark plugs out to let the excess fuel evaporate out of the cylinders. When I looked at one of the plugs I said to myself "self that gap looks awful big". So I get my feelers and check and they are all around .065" so I regapped them to .040" and the shiz starts right up and never had another cold weather start issue till the following year. That second time was the battery.

 

good point. i didn't take note he had an obd2 b16a. so yea there isn't a fast idle thermal valve. in that case i'm not sure what the issue is :/

 

well i think the coolant line on the throttle body are blocked off. i dont know where they are supose to go now. my bro did it in the summer saying he read it off somewhere that it would make the car have +1 whp or some ****. now hes being an *** and saying i should of fit this in the summer and not now. summer was great now is bad.=( ill take some pics and show yall.

 

ill look into that. the last time i change spark plugs i didnt do the gap. my dumb bro said it dont matter and he is the so call mech in our family. ill do tomorrow sun is down now and its getting to cold. my car is in the drive way=(

 

you could check out the main relay on alot of older hondas this happens quite a bit after lots of weather and the power surging through the connections it weakens them and causes the fuel pump to sometimes not come on when hot or cold temps

 

where that?

 

That's probably your problem right there. If you have the coolant lines blocked off that are supposed to go to the IACV then the car is not sensing the temp of the coolant. When the IACV doesn't have coolant running through it it's unable to control the idle from a cold start properly. When the car is being started from a cold start the IACV will open and allow the car to idle high for the first minute or so until it warms up and lowers the idle to normal.

I had this same problem with my RX-7. The coolant temp sensor was broken and when I would try to start it in the winter the car would routinely flood itself out, or would start and backfire from too much fuel. In the summer though it would start fine since it had no issues starting with too much fuel and it was warm outside. The engine would not be able to sense the correct temperature and would overload the housings with fuel and make it unable to idle properly or start.

 

all of the hondas ive seen are down under the dash on the driver side by the fuse box it should say on it relay asymbly, main but all you do to check it is take the cover off of it and look at the points of contact and look at them close if it looks like they are cracked around them then you can resolder them if you can send me a good pic up close of it and i can tell ya if it needs to be resoldered

 

okay i got some pic of the plugs that are plugged.

does the plug go the the throttle body hear?

theres another side what plugs to that one? this one? comes from the back box on the firewall. to some parts on the intakemani

 

The coolant lines removed from the IACV will not keep the car from starting. Mine have been bypassed for 7-8 years, maybe longer and it has never been an issue. You can unplug the IACV and the vehicle will still start.

 

Pull a spark plug already!

 

click here for a better look

 

as you can see the ones for the idle air control valve come from the thermostat housing (there on the bottom left) and the other one from the throttle body (the one above that)