Hello everyone,

After doing lots of search i've read mixed answers on

What the exact injector size is for the H22-vtec 2.2L PGMFI Engine?I'm having an issue starting it with s300 and the injector size at 310, but wanted to know if they are supposed to be 345cc instead.[/U][/B][/I've tried everything (adding and subtracting up to 80% fuel from stock Hondata s300 map.

I've got innovate lm-1 wired to d10 ELD for signal. Volts match stock primary o2 voltage).

Fuel pressure & pump is stock 98 Ek DX (chassis the motor is in) pressure (confirmed with helms that it's the same as a 1995 Prelude h22a1-vtec engine), however I will double check fuel pressure with the gauge later this week.

I'm wondering if you guys could also tell me


How many grounds do you guys have?

I have one ground from the chassis to top of tranny, one from harness to valve cover and then another from valve cover to drivers side chassis. Distributor has 4 wires only (internal coil) with the Brand being NGK for both wires and plugs. Plugs are gaped at .044 according to NGK site.

EVAP has been deleted w/ the evap hard line coming from the fuel tank being open in the engine bay (I had it caped before, but i removed it)

Moderators please move thread if this is the inappropriate forum.

I look forward to a response.

 

Check for:
1. timing
2. fuel
3. spark
4. compression

You said it has a 4 wire dizzy, I think that might be your problem... unless you are talking about 4 spark plug wires... Do you have an obd1 or obd2 dizzy on the motor? Jumper harness?

 

is your atf changing when u add 80% or - 80% fuel???

 

they are 345cc

but either way it will start, its not a big enough difference to matter.

 

Hey everyone thanks for responding

1) I cannot check timing without it starting, but the distributor bolts is aligned right through the middle of the holes. I have a timing light, but obviously i cannot change it without it starting. S300 shows -4 degrees ignition when cranking though and my part throttle/idle ignition table is set at 15 degrees as well.
2) Hear fuel pump prime and i verified early this morning that fuel pressure for the engine is similar to the fuel pressure on my EK (in stock form)
3) This is what i have not checked yet
4) I was told from hmotorsonline when i went to purchase the engine that the compression was 185 across the board, but i have yet to check on my own due to the install being recent (engine was purchased about 3 months ago)

The dizzy has 4 spark plug wires for it and is obd1. Conversion harness was made by rywire and obd2-obd1 conversion harness from phearable.net

Do you mean A/F? If you do, it doesn't crank enough to show a proper a/f ratio, but i do see the a/g gauge moving during cranking (due to power and ground going on and off while cranking)

Thank you!

I've attached a jpeg of the last low cam fuel values map. These values are 40% less then the stock h22 map on hondata.

 

so how many grounds are you prelude owners or h22 swap owners running and where are your grounds located?

 

grounds
valve cover to engine bay
tranny to engine bay
try a stock ecu and see if that works

you should check the compression for your self and do a leak down
is your firing order right?

 

All those grounds i have plus 2 more. I'll try out the stock p13 ecu for sure, but even if compression was off a bit, it would still turnover. Firing order is 1-3-4-2. How does the low cam fuel values look compared to your fuel low cam?

 

low cam looks good
3-4
1-2
that how it looks on the dizzy with your firing order?
did you try the stock ecu?

 

Yep, that's exactly how i have it on the dizzy. Haven't tried with the stock ecu,will try on saturday.

 

let me know how it goes and if you need a map for s300 I can send u one
and also tey the s300 on another car if u can just to make sure its not the ecu

 

I was told by John Vega of Phearable.net the ecu has been tested and is in good working order. I don't have any troubles of uploading maps &/or connecting to the ecu. Please do send the map to elitetuning@aol.com just incase so at least i can get the car started properly. I appreciate your help jeffrey.

 

1) When I say Timing, I mean is the timing belt on correctly. Not Distributor timing... make sure the belt is on correctly, not off by a tooth etc.
2) Just because the fuel pump is priming and you see the fuel rail has pressue, doesnt mean the motor is getting fuel. The injector has to spray for the motor to get the fuel... Best way to check this is to pull off the dizzy while the car is in the on position, and spin the rotor (the part that goes into the head) you should hear the injectors spray when you spin the rotor. If you dont, there is your problem.

3) you can check spark before you do the injector test...

4) I would do another compression check just to be safe IMHO.

Good Luck!

 

1) Motor has never been opened, but i'll do this although I am not willing to do physical work any more on this car (2.5 weeks straight get to you especially when it doesn't turn over)
2) Maybe what i'll do is just disconnect the fuel rail & injectors together off the intake manifold and put a pan under it to see if it sprays or do your method (i feel it will be easier for me to just take off the fuel rail)
3 & 4) These along with the stock p13 ecu is on the top of my list.

Thank you guys for all your help! I'll keep you informed in couple of days.

 

ok when i removed the plugs, they smelled like fuel.However, we didn't get any spark. I'm wondering if you guys know how to check a distributor to see if its working properly. Cannot be the plugs since they are brand new NGKs

I look forward to your response

 

Well, i was able to take apart the distributor and came to find out that it has its own little ecu/module. Had that tested and it failed 9/10 tests. I have the new one coming tomorrow (cost me over $100 here since they don't sell the 1990 2dr accord lx distributors anymore) so hopefully she'll turnover tomorrow. In the meanwhile, i've checked timing belt and that's proper. I have yet to check compression tough (will do that shortly)

Thanks again folks!

 

do you have a resistor box wired up for those injectors??? i had a problem starting a car one time. it was due to the cylinders being flooded with fuel... try swapping out new plugs... all you need is fuel air and spark..... check the basic things first and go from there

 

Yes, resister box is there.I checked compression last night but after reading about compression checks, my results are incorrect (they were off for every cylinder) and the fact that I probably flooded the cylinders doesn't help at all. I'm going to see if I can take some of that fuel out since it doesn't evaporate.

Regards,

Mike @ Elite tuning

 

take the plugs out and diable the igntion and fuel and crank the motor, the fuel will come out.


i though that h22 injectors were 240cc?

 

i've taken out the plugs and removed the 15a fuse in the engine bay & the fuel pump fuse inside. Last night after 3 different compression checks, the hose end always comes out with fuel. I did add a lot so there's still a lot to be taken out. I'm waiting for a phone call from auto-zone that the part is in.

 

this is very frustrating. Installed the new ignition module and still no spark. Is there a way to test the ignition coil itself?

 

found out it was the whole distributor so i got her started now, but found another issue. I realized the h22a motor doesn't have the map sensor on the TB. I've researched and found out that it's wall-mounted map sensor. Anyone have the part number for the map sensor (or year and model of the usdm honda that uses the same part) or should i just order an omnipower one?

 

all the honda map sensors are basicly the same. you can take the one off the throttle body from your old engine and put a vaccum line to it.

 

the one from the d16 is on the throttle body. I know the obd1 ones are on the firewall.Are you sure i could use the one from the d16?

Here's a link to the civic part number (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/prelude...~ca13ss00.html), but i also found a different part number 37830-P13-003 (http://www.hondapartsnow.com/discoun...0-P13-003.html)

 

they are physicly different, but electricly the same.

if you take it off the throttle body you will see a little nipple on the bottom. connect a vac line there and everything will be fine.