Just got done with the first round of tuning, was on 12 psi spring, creeps a little to 13.

I was thinking close to 370ish with my mods.







timing is conservative at 15 degrees, gas is 93 octane.

major mods

motec ecu
gt35r .63 housing
82mm ls vtec 9.1 comp
gsr cams
victor x
sls t3 ramhorn 44 tial gate
1000cc
b16 trans
COP
msd dis2 plus

 

have you done a leak down test to check compression
that seems about 100whp to me

 

it's about right. You are not really running alot of boost. That turbo's efficiency goes up as boost goes up, but it seems right about right. What's so special about your mods besides the ignition setup?

 

[QUOTE=ABK;36871328]it's about right. You are not really running alot of boost. That turbo's efficiency goes up as boost goes up, but it seems right about right. What's so special about your mods besides the ignition setup?[/QUOTE
+1 aucally its not ot bad for only 12psi

 

compression seems to be the culprit.power seems good just fell short of plans.i would say a set of skunk2 st 1s and youll see those numbers move up.9.5:1 cr and 12 psi would have been closer.

 

Your set-up needs cams. Tuner 1's or Pro 1's will probably pick up 40-50whp at the same boost level. Pro 1's will give you faster spool by 300-400 rpms, but have slightly rougher idle compared to the tuner 1's.

 

Seems kinda low to me - sorry its just my opinion dude - I am running a much smaller than yours, Garret T04B at 8 PSI, stock H22A Block and car puts out like 300Whp...

Tuned on Crome with a P28 Get it checked out dude - you should make more!

 

who tuned it?

I agree with upgrading cams.

 

Why are you cutting it off at 7800?

The power isn't dropping off substantially yet.

Also did you try running anymore timing in the motor?

 

Why does everyone say just throw cams in it? You can make plenty of power with stock cams. Theres easier ways to make power.

I still run stock cams in my car. I havent changed them because I havnt reached the peak of the stock cams yet. Theres more power to be had with them. IMO Max your set up out before you change parts.

 

you just need to rev higher , i bet it will make over 50 more whp before it peaks

 

man, thats pretty low compression.

my numbers are 329/224 sae. bone stock b16 with peakboost ftw ramhorn + e85 + 12 psi + crome pro. i got dyno to show if you would like to compare.

 

nothing is special about it, was just thinking it should make more

also .4 more displacement.

I did

i dont want to run more timing yet becuase i do not have a knock sensor wired in nor do i have a knock sensor, i have a knock box, basically a set of head phones setup to hear knock.

cutting out at 8k, just so happen to stop recording at 7800.. stock springs and gsr's.. dont want to really rev it much higher

 

CTR/ITR cams

 

Ah. Those stock springs/retainers are going to limit the potential of this setup. That is probably the first thing I would replace before anything.

With that turbo and IM you should be able to make power to 8800-9000 without a problem.

Also have you pulled the plugs? It won't hurt to add a degree at a time and keep an eye on the plugs.

 

the plugs looked normal from the couple times i pulled them during the dyno session.

at this moment, im just happy its running, last time it ran it was on crome and a ssac turbo manifold in june 08,

 

Those are decent numbers not low. The turbo and intake manifold will work better at higher boost levels. As far as H22 coment, come on you got a smaller turbo (works better at small boost) and bigger motor, totaly different setup.
Motor is built for way higher boost levels, you can't expect it to put down crazy numbers at low boost. BTW is it sleeved? Never really seen a 82mm stock sleeve boosted motor.

 

man scared to run past 7800 on stock valvetrain? i set my b16 to 8400. stock valvetrain can take a lot. itr even more. ive seen some setups go up around 9000-9400.


heres my stock b16. still makes decent power in the upper rpms, but kinda falls off a little. b16 cams own me. i want itr's


uncorrected. it was a bit on the cold side.




sae

 

stock sleeves crower rods wiesco pistons.

the car feels strong, is wanting to break them loose in upper rpms of fourth

 

is it cold there? variables have a big affect on what it actually makes. as you can see i made 351 under uncorrected. it was about 56 degrees out. **** rips when its cold.

 

that first dyno you are flirting with danger

 

like high 30s on dyno, under 30 while driving later on

13.0 under boost untill 6k is a really lean...

 

there both the same dyno. 3 runs. ones uncorrected and the other is sae.

also, the afr needs to be fixed up in the midrange. under wot and full boost afr is about 11.7-11.9. btw i dont get full boost til about 5k.

its safe.

 

I'd take your afr's closer to 11.50's under boost. Step your vtec crossover point up a few hundred rpms as your low cam is still making power when it cross' over. Looks like a bit of det. at 7500.

Why is your boost falling off at 7600 revs?

I say take your afrs to 11.50's, coming from a guy that tunes WRX's because you never know how great the gas your going to get is. Its not worth a new set of pistons to make an extra 10whp.

I would about imagine you should be able to run at least 1 more degree of timing. Honda's combustion chambers are better than sex, added timing (within reason) will drop egt's until you've reached mbt, which you have not and probably wont on anything <94 octane.

 

like i said, im on e85. approx 105-106 octane. what makes you think its detonating at 7500? ill make less power by "taking" my afrs to 11.50.

and its not the boost thats falling off, i see full boost from 5k til redline. my power is falling off due to the shitty b16 cams that are in there. if i had some cams like itr's that had more lift and duration, id keep making power.



oh and to this guy (turbociv910) i think you need a little more tuning. graph looks a little bumpy, so does the afr graph. and whys it spike up like that around redline?