I have an obd0 b16 with a itr manifold.

1) i need to replace my coolant sensor. What usdm motor has the same sensor? I'm thinking 90-93 integra but i dont know.

2) Since my iacv is from an obd2 car will it work properly on my obd0 crx?

I am having high idle problems(stays @1500 unless i cut the lights on then it goes down to 1000), and im going through the standard checklist. When i unplug the IACV the idle does not change, but i know the IACV works because i took it off my 99 si and it worked properly before i took it off. Any help is appreciated.

Things i have done so far:

Get the engine completely warmed up. Turn off all the electrical stuff, lights, AC, stereo. Unplug the electrical connector of the IACV valve (back of intake manifold). Adjust the idle screw to get 500 rpm. When you plug the AIC valve back in, it goes up where it belongs. Then reset ECU.
I did this and the idle would only go up, the screw is tighten all the way down.

Leaking IAC- (Idle air control valve) Disconnect IAC connector. Idle speed should decrease. With the connector disconnected, block the hole or pinch the hose to the IAC valve. If the idle speed decreases the valve is leaking. May not set a code and may not be a codeable circuit on all models. The upper port in front of the throttle plates feeds the
Idle Air Control (IAC) valve and the base idle screw. If
the IAC is unplugged and the base idle screw is turned all
the way in and there is still airflow through the upper
port, check for a stuck open IAC valve.
Idle speed does not decrease, I blocked the hole with the sensor unplugged and there was no vaccum. I also cleaned the IACV before putting it on.

Vacuum leaks- a loose vacuum hose or leaking intake manifold gasket can cause high idle speed and/or fluctuation. Also check for bad PCV valve.
I replaced the pcv valve and sprayed the whole manifold and throttle body with carb cleaner and found no leaks.

Fast Idle Valve- (if equipped) a fast idle valve that is sticking can cause high idle speed and fluctuation. Check it by removing the steel cap on the top and putting your finger over the hole in the middle of the seat under the cap or block the port just inside of the throttle body opening, when the Idle is fluctuating or staying high. When the engine is warm this valve should be closed. You can tighten the seat but it will also change the idle speed warm up values (closing).
I dont have a FITV

Throttle valve- throttle position sensor voltage should be .5 volts with the throttle closed. Make sure the throttle valve is fully closed and voltage is within spec.
I fully adjusted my TPS and the lowest reading i could get was .58 volts. It is also a brand new TPS.

ECU-If all else is good, if you reset the ECU and the problem goes away temporarily, the ECU may be defective.
I replaced the ECU and nothing changed.

Verify that the cooling system is full of coolant and
there is no air in it.
There is no air in the cooling system, i did bleed it to make make sure.

Remove the air boot from the throttle body and cover the throttle body with something that will stop the airflow
(your hand, tape) with the engine running. With the
throttle body covered and no air going into the engine, the
engine should stall. If the engine does not stall, look for
a vacuum leak.
I put my hand over the throttle body and the car died.

Verify that the base idle screw was not turned way out on
the top of the throttle body. If it was, set the base idle
and see if the problem still occurs.
The idle screw is tightened all the way in.

If you have anymore ideas please let me know
Thanks in advance

 

Any thoughts?

 

ttt

 

adjust the cable? maybe not sure tryin to help

 

Try this:

Put the meter on to your red TPS wire and adjust the throttle return screw so the throttle closes a wee bit more. Hopefully this will get you down to the voltage you need. The throttle return screw is what the spring loaded throttle rotor snaps down onto when you release it.

Hope that helps!

 

That is a really good idea, thank you. That thought never even crossed my mind.

 

I checked the cable and it is adjusted correctly, thank you for your suggestion.

 

My TPS was at .50 and I couldnt manually adjust it "fine enough". But when I used the screw instead, it only took about a 90° turn to get it to exactly .45.

Use a 6mm socket or wrench to do it IIRC. You might need to re-do your idle setting afterwards via the screw, and reset your ECU.

 

So I should set it to .45 and not .5? Or should i just change it what ever voltage (between .3 & .5) it takes to get the idle back to normal?

 

with the throttle return screw, you can easily fine tune it to the 100th... so whatever is the spec for your particular IM/TB setup.

 

Try replacing (or cleaning) the 3-section rectangular o'ring with screen behind the IACv. (I think the o'ring assembly is called a Filter Spool Valve) May sound trivial--but I start out simple minded before going high tech.