currently doesnt start, i tried earlier and it sputtered a bit but wouldnt start. it was recently easy to start cold and ran fine cold but it started to sputter and bog once it warmed up.

tested good-
spark plugs, plug wires, fuel pressure, fuel pump, iacv, tps, map, iat, and fixed the engine coolant temp cel. so no cel's. i noticed that the plug for the vehicle speed sensor was screwed up and the speedo doesnt work but its not throwing the VSS cel.

i also replaced the icm and coil with good one i had but i didnt switch the complete internals because the other distributor was obd2. the ignition control module, coil, rotor and cap are good.

 

Maybe it's caused by the P28 ECU which has maps for the D16 engine. You can chip the P28 with a program for B16 or switch to a P30.

It runs good cold cause the ECU is in open loop. When it warms up the ECU switch to closed loop and try to correct the fuel to get lambda 1 (at idle and low load).

Do you have a Wideband? It would tell you whats going on (fuel whise).

VSS error just come after a while of driving.

 

ecu is chipped and ran good with this engine before. ive had this engine in my hatch for about 1 year now and its always ran good hot or cold... ever seince i changed my thermostat its been acting up

 

followed trouble shooting procedures for fuel, spark and checked the cel's but this **** has me stumped... no cel, and runs good in open loop, ran good in closed loop before. any suggestions.

 

if it is sputtering then it is fuel related....getting too much or too little...from my experience

 

if there was air in the coolant system from not pressurizing correctly. could it cause a problem like this??

 

it sputters and bogs very bad, it runs fine cold with no problems at all so i dont think fuel or spark is bad but ill have to double check everything again.

only changed the thermostat and coolant temp sensor and it started acting up. i thought for sure it was because i switched coolant sensors so i put the orignal one back in but its still givin me trouble. doesnt throw any cels and its getting spark and fuel to every cylinder because it runs good cold. could my ecu **** out all of the sudden like this?

 

after i replaced the coolant temp sensor with the orignal i did bleed the coolant system and i reset the ecu after so it was good to go.

 

didnt bog much at all this morning after it warmed up so i filled it up with some fresh gas and it seemed to be fine... i let it warm up good and drove it a lil while and it ran good.

shut it off for about 10 min and when i came back out it was still warm and i could hardly get it started. eventually got it running and it was having the same problem.

ran perfect cold, was running rough warm (sputters and bogs with to much throttle, still drives but i have to just barley give it throttle to keep it from bogging)

any ideas on where i should start trouble shooting? already checked the timing, fuel, spark,thermostat, antifreeze and coolant system. everything looks good and the engine runs fine cold. should be something minor or an easy fix.

 

Check for a vacuum leak.. Also check the TPS sensor.

Maybe your Idle intake air control valve is all dirty .. Make it act funny. ?

 

yes your ecu can start to act funny...im sure its fuel related because your coolant will not make your car sputter....try switching your ecu....even if your getting spark and fuel it does not mean your car wont run funky...i've had this problem before...so its my advice but its up to you since your the one with the problem

 

no vacuum leaks and i unpluged the tps when it was running just to check it and it wouldnt rev past 2k so the tps is working. doesnt throw tps cel when it is pluged in (also runs fine cold so tps, iacv, spark, and fuel should be good) i was thinking it might have something to do with the fuel, or spark but it runs fine when its cold so they should be good.

any ideas on what could be causing this if there is no cel

 

when your car is cold your ecu is in limp mode....once it warms up thats when it starts to function and reads everything...take my word and pop in a different ecu for your car...then tell me afterwards...

 

could it possibly be the o2 sensor considering it runs fine cold but like **** warm? maybe the ecu happen to **** out?(runs good in open loop but like **** in closed loop, always ran good cold and warm before) also know that my vehicle speed sensor is not working but it wouldnt cause this.

reason i was saying the coolant had something to do with it was because it ran perfect before i changed the thermostat and when i changed it i also switched coolant temp. sensors.. i read up on a different thread with a guy who had similar problems and it turned out to be his coolant temp sensor. i went out and switched the sensor with a good one off my ls and still no luck. thought that might be it because thats the only thing that changed in between time but its still having the problem.

 

then just put your old stuff back on..switch and thermostat

 

Bump for i'm having the same problem and haven't been able to figure this **** out!!

This is the stupid little sensor right below the distributor correct? if it is i've read that at cold its suppose to read 2.5 - 4.5 volts also for the Intake air temp!!

Well mine is reading without the car started just ke turned 16.7 volts and the IAT is at 4.9 volts which is correct, so what's up with this **** can someone confirm this..........

 

so is yours running good cold (open loop/base map) or just running like **** when it warms up and switches to closed loop? if so then its similar to mine because once it gets warmed up and switches to closed loop it looks for sensor input and starts running like ****. has to be a bad sensor were gona have to trouble shoot and maybe unplug ea. sensor seperately and see which one make a difference on how its running.. im going to see what i can find out later on tomarrow.. ill keep it updated

 

Mine is:
at start up idles like at 850rpm for about 4 minutes then it stall out, start it back up idles the same maybe 950rpm and will not stall out. after 10 minutes of warming up temp about 160 it idles at about 950rpm - 1050.

Go for a drive around neigborhood 15mph- 25mph it buckles like crazy( just light throttle) if i step on it it's all good except for all the black smoke and my eyes tearing from running so dam rich!!

 

if your running rich then its your ecu....it controls your fuel system...black smoke means your feeding your motor too much.....

 

lol... Their are alot of other things that can make your car run rich, it doesn't neccesarily means it's the ecu. I for one have hondata s300 and know for sure it's not the ecu. I'm also on the hondata forums trying to figure this out, so far i've gotten feedback from their to check my vaccum, grounds, map sensor because on the datalog i've posted it's all over the place.....

 

gona test a buddies ecu today but this ecu has never had any problems. it was actually running pretty good this morning, i took it out for about 40-45 min and ran fine untill i pull in the drive way. it started boggin and sputterin then i turned it off and could barley get it to start again. need to get this fixed asap.

 

LOL good thing im not the one with the PROBLEM!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

my car kind of did this and it turned out to be my O2 sensor. it would run fine cold but when warm it would run like crap. try unplugging the O2 sensor and drive around and see if it runs better when warm.

 

will do, hopefully thats the problem but i havet touched the o2 sensor. do they just **** out all the sudden like this???

 

cleaned that o2 sensor up and re installed it, still no luck.. im going to try it without the o2 sensor and see if it makes a difference.