Ok im having a little trouble making a decision here. Just wanted oyur thought, had an h22 swap in my ek last year, and spun a bearing ruining the crank, so im trying to decide on a swap. I dont know if I want to do another H22 or go with an F20B. Im gonna be using an H22 trans, but can alsways order a F20B trans later. Just wondering what u guys think would really appreciate it

 

I would just rebuild the H22 that's in the car right now; new crank and bearings and you're set. The F20B vs H22 argument has been asked several times here; here's my take on what's been said.

F20B is only useful or on par with an H22 in stock form if it's the manual transmission version. Most of the Accord SiR's I've seen have been automatic, so finding a manual longblock alone is likely very difficult. I'd only buy an F20B if it was the whole powertrain with the T2T4 coming along with it. If you're modifying the intake and cams, by all means get an automatic version. The EK is still light, so the extra torque given by the H22 over the F20B (15 ft. lbs peak) won't make much of a difference. Depending on which H22 you've got, the advertised peak HP number might be higher on the F20B, but you have to rev it to get the power out of it; something I have no problem with. Others might call me crazy because I'm trading revs and gutlessenss for low end torque. With a proper valvetrain, I'd guesstimate that the F20B has about 700-800 more RPM in it safely than an H22, due in part to the better rod/stroke ratio. Another benefit is that the F20B isn't as likely to burn oil due to the non-FRM liners. Basically, in a lighter Civic (hatch), I'd take the 197hp/200hp (whichever you prefer) version F20B over an H22 any day. The F20B is a very stout motor from the factory. I've heard that it has a lighter flywheel than an H22, but I have yet to confirm it. The T2T4's limited slip is also a MAJOR plus.

 

thanks for the input keep it coming

 

Yeah! Honda built the F20b for the 2 litre racing class. 8500 factory rev limit. As opposed to 7600 rpm on the H. Blue top, single stage intake, I dont think you can go wrong with the F20b. Besides everyone and their brother has an H22. I have an H22 euro r red top in my 92 EG. Dirty trans and all! (from hmotorsonline) But I almost got the f20b.

 

u both have great points but i would say H22....wat year is the motor???if its pass 1997 ur in the clear get f22 rods(which bumps comp lil more than the h23) or h23 rods and a f22 95mm crank. If u go with h23 rods get type s pistons with type s cam alone if im not wrong thats somwhere near 2.3l 12.1comp beastly 8200 rpm motor i have that same exact setup in my integra with a gsr tranny. its just my .02

 

First off. F20B motors DO NOT have single stage intake manifolds. None of them. Thats the EuroR or Accord Type R motors.

Second, as far as which motor to choose from (and this coming from someone who has owned both motors and a brother with an F20B manual swapped coupe with the T2T4 trans) i would tell you to choose the motor youre most familiar with. Think of it like this: can you for sure say that you can get the manual version (unless like F20B-CX said where you get an automatic and swap out cams valvetrain and TB)? Do you feel comfortable that you'll find the internal block parts if some thing does happen to fail? And at that pay its price? Im not saying not to get the F20B im just throwing out there the things most dont look at.

My brother swears by the F20B and he has gone through 2 H22 motors that have failed due to broken ringlands and the other spun a bearing. his F20B is quite a motor though. Im building my own personal F20B. b series rod bearings and H22a4 main bearings stock stroke with custom 88mm bore CP 12.2:1 pistons on eagle long rods and that PCB head in my avatar. its fun what i found out about this motor. But the H22 is great as well: torque on demand, readily available and strong. It ultimately depends on your view in the end

 

H22 displacement > F20B

H22 also has more aftermarket support and a lot more people have experiance with H22's

 

Try to get a f20b timing belt or other parts just incase you brake something or want to modify something...Good luck with the f20b if you are trying to modify it... Its just a lot harder than the h22

 

The ONLY stuff thats hard to get on the F20B because they are different from the H (and this is coming from someone who actually opened the motor and measured) are the following: pistons, rods, crank, oil pickup, IACV, head gasket, head, block, intake valves, outer upper timing cover and engine mount bracket and thats just off the top of my head.

You can use an H22 timing belt for the F20B as well as the h23 manual tensioning components. I know because ive installed them myself on my brothers F20B.

Best bet for you my friend is to decide what you want in your car. Even though i chose the F20B instead of another H, in your case since youre already in H land, might as well keep it that way. cause you'd already be up .2 in displacement and you'd have spare parts from your other motor as replacements.