OK well i bought my crx about a month ago and its a fireball it has the SiR B16A motor in it with all the bolt-ons. it outruns alot of cars in my area and i beleive it does 14 in a quarter. yes i am a guy so of course i want to go faster, i know turbos can ultimately get u more horsepower than naturally aspirated can but turbos can get expensive after a while because i drive ABOUT 100 miles a day, my girlfriend lives in another town about 15 miles away, sometimes i pick her up for school so thats another 30 miles. anyway which setup should i go with. im thinking N/A would be alot safer on my car since im putting wear-tear on it

and if anyone says N/A could u tell me your setup and maybe some quarter mile times?

 

1: it don't matter if its NA or FI. its all in the build & the TUNE.
2: NA cost more IMHO. I've spent over 5k on my motor and olny 1/2 done.
I could of gone turbo and been faster and spent less by now.
3: just depends on how much money you have

as for "how fast will I be" take it to the track,and learn to drive it.
I had a stripped down crx witha B16 that mannaged a 13.7 on 20in slicks.

GL and do alot of searching & reading.

 

what about replacing the turbo itself? wont that rack up a bill or two?

im also hearing alot about individual throttlebodies...any opinions on ITBs?

 

a good turbo should run you anywhere from $600 up, unless you buy one used.

ITBs are cool, but unless you have a fully built motor, there is no need

 

Truelly i love both but to have a fast NA it costs more the turbo and ull make farless power.Turbo is in a poor mans buget like mine.I spent 5k on my b16 in 88 hf all i had was (endyn cams valve train) SK2 intake,single layer headgasket ,smsp header and a 50shot tuned by MASE on S300 180whp on motor (230whp bottle) went 12.5@115 Stock bottom end reving to 10k

 

Actually turbo's help with gas mileage, if you don't boost it. What are you planning to do with the car? Also what are you planning to tune with boost or n/a.

 

bump

 

me I'm staying away from ITB's. I havn't seen enought to see a major advantage over a good IM.
My freind has a 92hb with a 1cam in it on a home made turbo set up (vitera build). He has about 1500 into his build (motor/turbo/ect) and hit 12.9 this year on some bigass slicks (26's loaners).
It really just depends on your budget.

 

buy a beater and boost the mother EFer

 

Sweet, a bench race thread.

 

lol, but the real main point of itb's is THROTTLE RESPONDS. On top of that tuning each cylinder so it's safe. So, gotta know what the engine is set up for before trying to help you figure out your set up. Also money plays into a factor.

 

well ive been trying to keep from looking at Ebay turbo kits such as RevHard but i really donno. dont you think that with my excessive driving my turbo would die out on me? and if i were to boost the car i'd do a maximum of 8 pounds. but for the N/A build i would just do it because its safer/maybe cheaper.

 

Anything is safe with a tune, cheaper no. Because in the end you will spend more money on n/a trying to make as much power as a turbo'd car. It doesn't matter how much you drive the car, it's how you drive it. If your always full throttle it doesn't matter if boosted or not, it will damage the engine (If you keep on beating on it for long periods of time)

If you left the oil cool down every time you drive, you have nothing to worry about. It's the people who beat the crap out of there cars and just turn them off after a good beat down, where it really affects the turbo.

 

are ebay intercoolers,BOV, wastegates, manifolds worth their buy?
my dad has a bunch of turbo's off of other cars ( t3/t4 ) and i was just wondering if i should buy the rest of the kit off ebay?

 

I run a JRSC on my stock block CRX. Its dyno'd at 155 ft/lbs torque and 155 WHP. Instant torque and none of the turbo BS.

 

yeah i WAS looking at a supercharger but i need the gas mileage too. i drive alot of miles and i need the most out of my gas saver

 

i got both. n/a (for now?) winter beater and boosted summer (i don't like road salt) car.

To answer your question >> get yourself in a financial situation where you have enough to buy "quality" parts, because when you go with the "ebay" rep parts, should they fail (not saying they will, but if/when they do) you can be ready to be back on you feet.

that's the advice i got, as for the setup i would choose turbo over n/a just because of the cost. As for the mileage, a full n/a build would require a break in period, which is vital... so you have to take care of that, while a turbo setup can be thrown on the already broken in motor you have.

Above says it all though, no matter what n/a, supercharger, turbocharger it's all in the TUNE. goodluck

 

This has been answered about 1000000000 times. Prob should just do some research and read up on the advantages of both NA and Turbo. GL!

 

I'm now convinced this is a joke.

Do you want fuel economy and reliability at minimal expense, or do you want to bolt a bunch of expensive fragile crap on to make more power? Because these things are mutually exclusive.

If you have to drive this car 100 miles per day, leave it alone. That's the best advice I can give you. If you have to mess with it, buy a beater car to get around in first.

 

Are superchargers not for daily use?

 

If superchargers weren't for daily use, why would there be factory supercharged cars available from Toyota, Pontiac, Chevrolet, Buick, Ford, Chrysler, etc.?

 

My advice to the op, if you want good gas milage, and reliablity, then don't do anything to the car. N/a is more expensive imo. Turbo can be done for cheap, HMT setups are done all the time for under a grand.

 

OK guys. thanks for all your advice.

i'll just wait to do anything to the motor till ive got enough cash for backup

 

Ok... Wrong. Both n/a, turbo, supercharge, whatever. Needs to be broken in after being built. Just because you have a new turbo doesn't mean you don't have to break it in. YOU HAVE TO. So regardless, breaking in is just a given.

 

first start by stating your budget