1996 Integra GSR 4 door, Green with tan cloth with 118,000 miles!

Body:
No rust
Has door dings all over the car
Front body panels don't line up perfectly which is odd because the car shows no accident on Carfax. Every body panel on the car has the VIN number except the passenger front fender. So, the only possible panel that could have been replaced is the passenger fender.
Passenger front door has some bondo in it that is starting to crack out. I have pics of that posted here.
Overall, it's a nearly 13 year old car so it's NOT perfect. However, I am VERY **** and it's not bad. I would rate the body about a 6 or 7 out of 10.
Driver side door handle is black.
Bumper cover, passenger fender, and passenger door have been painted on for sure. Bumper cover looks "dry sprayed" so it's not as shiny as everything else.

Interior:
Needs a little shampooing but it's not too bad inside as it is.
No tears in any of the seats
Has factory floor mats still and they are in good shape
No radio
Driver door panel cloth insert is torn off.
Some TINY cracks in the dash right above the glove box.
Windows, locks, and power moonroof all work just like they should.
Has crappy window tint job and it will need removed or redone.

Engine/trans:
Original engine and trans.
Engine has sticker on it from Honda/Acura and the timing belt/water pump/tensioner were replaced at 99,000 miles. So, 20k on a brand new OEM setup.
Low mile flywheel installed with clutch.
New OEM Acura clutch disc and pressure plate as of TODAY. Trans fluid I took out looked like new. Put fresh synchromesh in after the clutch was in today.
Cam seal was leaking so I put a new billet one in. Detailed engine compartment.
Engine is dead quiet. No valvetrain noise or anything.
Trans has no grinds EVER. Shifts perfect.


Car drives very nice. Steering is tight and just like new. Brakes are nice and quiet. NO SMOKE in VTEC or ever. This car is mechanically as solid as they come. This car will be ready to drive for the next 80,000 miles with no more maintenance required except for changing the oil.

Here are current pics. After I am done playing with the alignment of the panels, I'll take more pics to post how it looks. Asking $4500. Like I said, the body is NOT perfect but the car drives VERY nice. On to pics:









Will come with these wheels that will need tires VERY soon:






A few pics of the interior:






pics of engine compartment:

 

Up for the day. I am driving the car so miles will slowly go up.

 

How much for the camaro :p

 

That's one of the wife's other cars. She refuses to let loose of it; had it for about 7 years now and built it up from a rolling chassis...

 

TAKE OUT THE SYNCROMESH!!!...You have a perfectly good transmission, why would you place a product in it that is in essance acidic and is a bandage for poor transmissions? It's also made for transmissions that use normal/thick gear lube (around 90 weight) vs. what is basically motor oil in our transmissions (you can use Mobil 1 10w-30). It's more expensive than OEM MTF anyway ($5/qt vs. $3/qt)...

I'm telling you this because 500 miles after placing it in a d-series transmission in my Del Sol back in the day, it started whining HORRIBLY in every gear. I don't want that to happen to anybody else's car.

I've heard stories of people being ok with using the stuff, and other horror stories...Bottom line, if there's nothing wrong with your transmission, DON'T use syncromesh of any sorts.

This isn't to rag on you, but to help out...I'm just speaking from personal experience.

GL on the sale, nice car.

 

I've had Pennzoil synchromesh in transmissions for over 100,000 miles with no issues. Honda dealer is too far away for me to just got get some MTF plus I had heard that Honda changed their formula and many people had not liked it. I put a lot of B series transmissions together and have not had any issues with anyone running SM.

As for viscosity, they are both about identical. Pour one out of a bottle then pour the other out and the flow about the same. Seems that trans fluid viscosity is different than motor oil viscosity. Also, regular motor oil CAN be used but it breaks down much more quickly than Honda MTF (due to the sulphur content of the MTF) and other fluids designed for transmission use.

I don't call SM a band aid, more of an insurance policy....

 

any trades???