White smoke above 4500rpm. Recording events and procedures taking place for people with smimiliar problems.

Since the OP was made I have taken the car in for a new turbo timer(buddy club is worthless) and had my local shop look at the smoke I refer too. Shop manager thinks it is an engine problem even on a newly built block. Every measure is being taken to fix the problem and pinpoint the problem over an extended period of time with me driving like a grandpa and updating this thread in the solutions performed in order to fix a smoking engine. Oil ring seals, bad job at putting the engine together, gasket problems? We will see...

 

 

I wish it were that easy. that would cost 1/20 of how much it's going to cost to get my head looked at and replacing the headgasket

 

cometic HG's are garbage, go oem

 

yeah as soon as i saw cometic i was skeptical. I would stick with an Oem 3 layer and what are you using for head studs/bolts? If they are oem bolts have you been replacing them or reusing them? Also have you checked straightness of the block deck?

 

Amen

 

is this going to work properly with 9:1 low comp pistons?

 

How do you figure? I can name multiple people that have held a cometic gasket for more than a season with 800+ whp. Maybe before you try to pin point a headgasket, why don't you double check your super amazing machinist? Thanks.

 

I don't know why nobody caught onto that... Smoke during shifting is a definate sign that the exhaust-side seal on the turbocharger is fried, or oil feed backpressure is too high (or both)

 

either way something is leaking. lol

but i wouldnt say cometic is trash. I hadnt ever had a problem with them. ran one for a very long time, hassle free.

And are you loosing water/coolant too?

 

i always run cometic gasket and i never have any problems. And yes turbo honda's are a pain in the ***

 

not that I've noticed and if I have it's a very small amount for me not to notice.

 

How can I test this?

 

lets recap

You are PUSHING the car boosted when it hasnt been tuned yet, mistake numero uno (thats number 1)

You probably havent retorqued the ARP headstuds after heat cycling them, Mistake numero dos

Make sure your drain line and feed line isnt kinked.

You wanted a safe daily driver but you have neglected to tune the car, go figure.

swap the headgasket for an OEM HONDA headgasket, tq it down. Let the car heat cycle a few times, retorque headstuds, TUNE, do NOT PUSH THE CAR ON A BASEMAP

 

1.oil return (kinked or ran to were oil can backup )
2.ballbearing turbo? if so do u have the proper jeted oil supply fitting
3.valve seals or rings test by a compression test and leak down
4.seals in turbo (oil sometimes will seap out from between the cartridge and housing)
5. head gasket is possaible but no likely
6. tune that thing beatin on a basemap is not a good idea to rich can wash rings to lean can burn up a piston.which both will cause it to smoke.
Good luck , please no returned comments on this post

 

Thanks. Well I don't have Hondata yet can I still tune the car at my local performance shop? They are known for good efficient daily driving tuning. I actually want to switch to the OEM head gasket as well.

 

didnt mean to be harsh just you need to realize that you need to tune it or it will blow up. Personally i would get keep it under 3000rpms until you ge the money to tune it. Or get Hondata.

Or you can buy a Crome PRO ecu for $180 an go tune it next week

 

No that's cool I can take constructive criticism. Yea you're right I guess I've been lucky not causing any dmg I can see yet by popping the hood. I'll keep it under 3k. But can I tune it before I buy an EMS or do I have to buy one first? I already called my local shop that works with Hondata, chrome, and AEM and they told me I can bring it in now to get tuned. The only thing I have on the car is the apex V-AFC. I made an appointment for next week. I just hope I don't run out of "extra" money before we figure out the exact problem but income tax and my rent being cut in half for january and february will help along with a small winter bonus I should be getting in february.

 

need to know about your setup,

What injectors are you running, what map sensor?

you CAN tune with a VAFC but not fully. If you have bigger injectors youll need to run the hack. Missing link, etc.

If you are running the hack you can get a decent tune to make you last till you get hondata.

Personally id sell the VAFC for $100 an PM me i can sell you a CROME PRO ecu ready to go thta you can get tuned asap, you can still use that ECU later on to run Hondata S200 if you so desire, but for what you are trying to do Crome Pro is fine

 

lol, i was thinking the same thing.

 

im probably just goingto run hondata coupled with the V-AFC since I know nothing about wiring and it would be more of a hassle than help TBH. I'll look at the prices of the Hondata s200 and work with my shop to see what we can work out. is chrome pro more aimed for daily driving use? dont answer that if you don't want to I can find out for myself when im not being lazy

 

you are way off lol

Ok there is 2 types of Hondata. There is S200 and S300.

Now, S200 is no longer made but you can pick one up used easily for around $200 with boost option. You will still need a chipped ECU to work with the Hondata S200. Expect another $150-160 for a chipped ECU in addition to the Hondata S200 box.

S300 is a complete board that you solder into your existing OBD1 ECU, S300 is MSRP $595, then you need an OBD1 ECU to put it in, and prob pay someone to put it in thats around another $80.

Now both of those are still without TUNING.

or you can buy a Chipped OBD1 ECU for $160 with Crome Pro already loaded on it, and drive to your tuner an tune it, done.


Crome Pro is fine, its capable of supporting 500whp, ive done it on 1000 different cars. Hondata S300 is a great system, and i reccomend it for the higher hp cars, but for what you are doing, the Crome System suits your needs much better, it does everything S200 and 99% of what S300 does. and its far cheaper.

youll want to ditch the VAFC no matter what as it is rendered useless with the other tuning systems

 

roger. because the moving of the vtec with the apex v-afc will totally go against the mapping of the chrome tuned comp am i correct?

 

well you will be using Crome or Hondata to tune the system which means individual cells and VTEC crossover as well as low an high cam tuning.

The AFC pretty much just becomes an RPM display, thats it. Its pretty useless at that point

 

preform a clt=cylinder leakdown test..