ok recently swaped in a b20b in my 96 civic w/ a rhd conversion and JDM vtec harness, i was planin on b20vtec but 1st i got to get my car running right, everything in the car is plug in right got the jump harness to obd2a-obd1 so heres my story


cars starts perfect but it dies down, only way to keep it on is by steppin on the gas until it warms up then it will idle but real low like it is about to die down.. i tried to drive it then if i step on the gas slowly it will go for a little bit then sputters then bogs down and also if i quickly step on the gas it bogs down...

i need help im running out of option. im bout to towe it to honda but its going to cost me a whole lot of money!!! i dont need that for christmas.

could it be a bad fuel reg? i already change the dizzy 3 times, spark plugs twice, wires and im running out of option. its a dead end for me.

someone help me i would really apprciate it..

 

today i found out this huming noise and it was coming from my freakin IACV when i unplugged it off it stopped and plug back in it does it again.. but no sign of bad IACV could that be a reason.. something electrical??

 

any help?

 

ttt

 

troubleshoot the prob
start by cleaning the IACV and testing it, if its within specs move onto other snesors.

 

i did a b20 swap into my 93 civic and had this exact problem. i looked at everything over and over until i was pulling my hair out. turned out to be a loose ground bolt for the TPS and MAP. that bolt is located on top of the thermostat housing on the left side of the engine under the distributor.

my IACV was always loud just like yours. i tried switching it out with others but they did the same thing... good luck man.

 

what ecu are you running? is there any vacuum leaks?

 

my car did thes same thing for my b20 96 swap it stoped after i put new tps and map

 

switch your map and tps plug you may have it backwards

 

x2 and it wont throw a CEL even if they are in backwards

 

i swaped them both tried that already and it didnt worked.. i even tried my friends map and new tps and even put the right voltage on the TPS..

one of my friend who is a tech and another dude thinks it got some to do with my gas cuz when i unplug the FPR it runs better but of course spytters when i tried driving it, i even change the FPR and still the same..

today i change the Fuel firlter again, Fuel pump and injectors.. and still the same.. when it gets warm it idles fine but i can tell it miss fire, i already double chaeck the timing so i got this SAFC to read my Air fuel ratio and a adjustable FPR if i am running lean..

 

and btw no vaccum leak and im running a obd2 p75, and if it is the wiring i doubt it cuz i even try to use the USDM harness i have just extended some wires but that didnt change a thing... im leaning towards the gas issue since b20 tend to run lean but i dont get how its running that lean if everythiong on the motor is stock... and oh i also check that ground by the thermostat and its good..

 

what ecu is the obd2 p75? you need to run a chipped ecu with a 2.0 basemap. not running the right liter ecu will mess up your fuel system...

 

Umm have you checked your fuel pressure?

 

i was bout to get it base map but i need to check my fuel pressure but i cant find any guage that will bolt right up into my factory fuel filter(EK)... i noticed that the car will only idle when i clamp the fuel return line wich kinda made me think that when they converted the car to RHD they might have pinched a fuel line underneath the car so ill check on that too.. or it could also be my FPR uness the first FPR i tried could also be messed up.. my main thing is where to get the FPressure guage?

 

Put you an ad in the WTB section. You can get one for your filter or one that fits on your fuel rail. I have both on mine.

 

you still need a 2.o basemap for your b20....

 

im going to pick up the fuel pressure guage today here at the local performance shop.. and soon i get the car running im goin to get the base map or i might even get it tuned.

 

guys guys i think i found the problem it is some to do with the fuel system!!! ok today i put in FP Gauge and when i first prime it the gauge indicates 40 psi and then i prime it again it went down slowly to 20 psi so i replaced the Fuel Pressure Regulator and it didnt do anything so what could it be? the pulse at the end of the fuel rail or blockage in the system?

 

Did you ever find what was your problem? I have the same exact trouble with my B20b EK. Runnning great only if I crimp the fuel return line.

 

i know this is an old thread but it seems to be the exact same problem im having. im wondering if any1 ever figured it out. it seems to be kinda often that this problem arises.

 

Ok, waking up this thread again. My wife's car is a 93 EG with a B20 swap, LS cams and a P75 ECU. I drove this car home 450 miles with zero issues. Started having distributor issues a few months later,keeps throwing a code 9 with the CEL constantly on. Idles around 1500 no matter what. Runs very rich, bogs under acceleration, etc. Got a friend coming over Sunday to gimme a hand and some fresh thoughts. Hopefully we can locate the problem(s) and put an end to this nightmare. To all the previous posters, thanks for the info.