Hey all,

I have a 2000 ITR with 147k miles on it. I have to make some decisions soon, and am hoping that I can get some inputs from you folks. I can either fix the issues that I have, or sell it and get some other car. Normally, I'd just fix it but here are the things that needs to be done.

- Rebuild engine
- Dist base needs to be replaced
- Front and rear Oxygen Sensors

Fixing all of these at Acura or some shop will probably cost $5k or so I guess (does anyone have a better estimate?). So I can fix these, and use my car for a while longer, but I suppose other things will break over time (transmission, clutch, tho both fixed/rebuilt at 90k). I can't decide if it's better to sell this car to an enthusiast who can fix this on his own (or get it fixed) for a good price (can't tell what a good price is either because after looking at the FS thread, it varies quite a bit), or to fix it, and to worry about selling it a bit later when I don't need to rush.

Assuming those aren't fix, how much can at ITR go for at the minimum if almost everything is stock? If they are fixed, the price that I can sell it for probably won't go as much as the cost to fix them all right?

Thank you very much!
Koichi

 

it's a 2000 ITR. ok so it has some high mileage, but it's still a type r. if the body, suspension, and interior are in good shape i'd say fix it and keep or sell it and sell it for what it's worth. you're looking at a complete gasket set that will run you about $200, bearings about $100, rings $50. could probably pick up a distributor for less than $200. o2 sensors aren't too pricey last time i checked. so you're looking at most $1000 in parts and if you can find someone to do the work on the side you're looking probably around $1000 in labor at the most. i doubt you will able to sell it for as much as it's worth with these problems present. where are you located?

 

i would build it and keep her a few more years

 

I'm located in the Seattle area. The thing with respect to fixing this is that I want to have some sort of guarantee on the work as well as official paper work that will keep the future buyer satisfied with the work as well. So fixing it, even from a very reliable source, may not give the same confidence as if I get it fixed at a more well-known place (the dealer, a shop that is known around here, etc.). That's why I'll prob end up paying more than what you mention above...cause I'll pay some premium for the "guarantee."

Since my dealer knows about my car, I'm thinking of taking it there to get an estimate of how much they would buy it for, or trade it in for. I'm thinking of switching to something like Acura RDX or Audi Q5 (possible Nissan Murano?), so maybe if I go with Acura RDX, they'll give me a decent discount. They know the problems and they can fix it, so maybe they won't mind too much about the issues.

At least by doing this exercise, I'll have an idea what the minimum price should be if I'm to sell it to someone. I assume the private owner will have to pay more than what the dealership is going to pay for it.

This is a very fun car to drive, but it's very hard to sell, I'm realizing. It's hard to sell cause the price on this varies quite a bit.

 

if you trade it into acura, they most likely wont keep it and it will got to wholesale auctions, depends on the dealer

 

Okay, these are just educated guesses on my part.

If you get it fixed by the dealer, it will cost $4-5K to fix. If you get it fixed by a good independent mechanic, it will cost $2000-3500 to fix. Either one should give you a warranty on the work.

I would say you could probably sell the car for $5-7K in its current condition, or $10-12K if you get it fixed.

So even if you are going to sell it, it probably makes sense to fix it first.

Anyone who disagrees with my guesses is free to make his own guesses.

Of course, if you want to get a different car anyway, and the dealer offers you $8K or more on a trade-in as is, grab it!

 

I was thinking about the same.

 

This is awesome info guys. Thanks a lot

Btw, to add a small twist, here's what my car has as an extra added bonus:
- JDM Recaro Seats (do not have the original)
- JDM ITR Rims (have the original ones as well with snow tires)
- ITR Strut Tower Bar

How much effect would these have for the bottom line?

Once again, thanks so much for the ballpark! This helps a lot with my decision as to sell it or not (to the dealer or not as well). I guess I should somehow try to get a hold of ITR enthusiasts in the Seattle area to see how much they'd want to buy it for as well. Or I suppose I can add my car to the FS thread and see who's interested in it, given these issues.

 

no effect on your add ons, there is a reason why they are called stealership.



now... wanna part the Recaro Seats?

 

I was curious about what a private party may pay for those parts separately I suppose. I guess I can always sell those separately, and even swap the Recaro with regular seats with someone who wants them.

More things to decide!!

Thanks again all, very helpful.

 

Yup, no effect. Sell 'em separately.

 

You said the engine needs a rebuild but never mentioned why? Is the car running? It would make a huge difference in what the car would sell for. I mean, is it a blown engine or just that it burns oil?

 

Fixxx iiiiiitt.

 

It burns oil. I need to put in a bottle of oil almost every gas fill up (about 300 miles or so). I can go on like this for a while longer, but to pass my emissions that needs to happen before Feb (my registration expires in Jan), I at the min need to fix the O2 sensors (front and back). But unless I fix my burning oil problem, the dealer mentioned that it'll decrease the life expectancy of the O2 sensors. So, I was wondering what to do before I do anything that involves fixing my car.

 

hey ichikoo, i sent you a pm

 

definitely worth it when you're finished!

 

my stock itr motor was burning oil crazy like that before rebuilt...
it was caused by the piston ring(cylinder 3 or 1...can't remember) and a very thin scratch in the cylinder 4
if you can take the motor out by yourself, it will save lots of money on rebuilt
the rebuilt on my stock itr motor was around 2500cdn
- parts were reuse in rebuilt:
stock pistons, rods, crank, cams, valve springs/retainer, intake valves, stock 120k km oil pump, 10k km water pump, 10k timing belt
-new parts in rebuilt:
spoon head gasket, new exhaust valves, new valve guide, new valve seals, new piston rings, new bearings, all gaskets/bearings replaced.

after the rebuilt, the engine felt soooo much better than before! (even tho it is not in my itr...lol) it is worth to rebuild

 

My engine was burning about twice as much oil as you're describing, about two quarts every tank of gas. I had it rebuilt for a great deal by a local Acura/Honda mechanic for $1,600 OTD (Parts and labor, included break-in oil changes too).

The car does great now, even at track events I only burn a half a quart in an entire weekend. Not too bad.

I'd recommend having it rebuilt.

 

x 2. nsxtacy's estimates were about right. all your parts, if you shop wisely for OEM parts will get you to about $1000. if you can find a a knowledgeable friend or mechanic you trust to do it, you're set to go. you could consider "lurking" around an acura or honda dealership and make friends with a mechanic there that can do it "on the side." i think it's worth a shot. if you're in the seattle area, contact member clayton bigsby. he can probably point you in the right direction, at least as he has for me in the past.

jo

 

I was in the same boat as you at 140k, I rebuilt it and I regret it - I should have just sold it.

 

^ Why's that?

If it's money, realize it's a car, and it's a money pit when you start modifying them (I'm sure you realize this, I'm just stating for those reading).

The amount of money that I've poured into this car, and the amount I'm about to pour into it, is going to far exceed the value of the car to others, but not me. This is the car I would like to hang onto for life, so I see no problem putting the amount of money into it, that I am.

In 30 years: "Dad, why do you STILL have that yellow car in the garage? You never drive it, just send it to the junk yard already."

 

Some updates for the curious....

Two of the items may have been a false alarm.
- Distributor base, and O2 sensors.

The check engine light has not come on for the past 1000 miles of driving, so it looks like it's ok for now. There may be something wrong with them, but since it's not coming back on for now, I figured that the urgency is not there.

With the Exhaust B-pipe, it won't really affect my emission, so I'm going to wait on fixing that (tho I should cause it's bad for the environment).

For the burning oil, I'm going to try putting 10W-30 oil for now, and see how that slows things down. If it slows things down enough, then I'm going to wait on rebuilding the engine. It looks like Acura will do that for an estimate of 25 hours of labor + parts.

I went to one of the Acuras for a quick estimate for my car, and they claimed some price around 4-6k. It seems like they are pretty much basing it off of a GSR or something. If it's that cheap, I am more likely to fix it, and keep it for several more years. If I do rebuild the engine, since I drive a lot more tame now, it's likely to last 150k+ miles (not sure about the other parts, but at least the engine will).

I have some questions however.
I've had to replace/rebuild these in the past
- Clutch
- Transmission
- Oil pan (? I think that's what it was...)
- Water pump, timing belt, and one more item associated with this area.
- Break pads
- Tires (of course)
- Battery

I think that's it (I can't recall if I've had other things done to my car), and I'm guessing those are all typical wear of a car (esp since it's at 147k). I'm wondering what are some other things that you think will break in the near future that's very typical. I realize that I may have to do my clutch, and timing belt prob in the next 30-40k, hopefully longer. Transmission will prob last decently longer now that I drive like a grandma too.

Anything else that will be costly that I'll have to watch out for? I want to get an idea of how much it'll cost to own this car assuming I decide to go with the engine rebuild.

Thanks for all the help guys! It's been a great learning experience.

And yah, I was driving my parents automatic car over the holiday...and when I came back, I realize how much I love driving a manual, and I've come to realize how much I'll miss it if I decide to sell it

Koichi

 

In todays economy, fix it. Do you want a $400 to $700 car payment for 66 months? Yes that means buying 20k$ to 35k$ car. If you keep the new car long enough to pay the 66th payment, you will be looking for, still, another car.

I think that the repairs necessary, will not allow you to use stock pistons/rings, so do not take it to the Dealership. Find a local speed shop that takes a credit card. Plan on sending the monthly payments (that you would have been paying for a new car) to the credit card company for 1/3 of the time (22 months).

You are starting with a good transmission, new clutch, and a naturally aspirated engine that produces 100 hp per liter. So, either 22 months x $400 = $8,800 or 22 months x $700 = $15,400 for your engine build.