I just about two days finished a engine swap. I put a DOHC, black top, 1991, ZC engine into a 1988 Honda Civic DX. I did the DPFI to MPFI conversion, and obtained a 1988-89 acura integra distributor for the zc. I also got a PM6 ECU.

Now, I got everything hooked up, except for the CPS (EDIT: I just got done hooking up the CPS sensor, still not starting) and a few plugs, that I cannot find a spot for on the ZC engine. I know the car should start without the CPS. So I don't believe that is the problem. I checked the spark, and all 4 spark plugs are firing. I checked all my fuses nothing is blown. The battery is new, the spark plugs are new, and so are the spark plug wires. There are two vaccum hoses on the firewall, that I can't seem to connect anywhere, but it doesn't sound like its a compression issue. I know I'm getting fuel to the fuel rail. I can't figure out any other reason why it wouldn't start. The ECU is only throwing out one code, and that is for the CPS. Its code 9. (EDIT: With the CPS connected, the ECU is not throwing out a single code. The check engine light does not even stay on after the car goes from the on position.)

Any suggestions or ideas would be very helpful, I really need to get my car up and running, its my only mode of transportation, and I haven't been out of my apartment in over a month, since my stock DX motor took a crap on me. I live in Washington State, so it gets really cold here...but I don't think it would have anything to do with that, or maybe it does.

Also, any ideas on what you can use in place of starter fluid? WD-40? Gas? I don't have any way to buy any, and I'm thinking maybe it just needs an extra umph to start. EDIT: I just tried starter fluid that I got from my neighbor and to no avail it still wouldn't start.



EDIT: I did a compression test today and my results are not very good. 9note: this is on a cold engine because The car will not start)

Dry Test

#1 Cylinder: 91 psi
#2 Cylinder: Could not get a reading
#3 CYlinder: 91 PSI
#4 Cylinder: 90 psi

Wet Test

#1 cylinder: 100 psi
#2 cylinder: 105 psi
#3 cylinder: 110 psi
#4 cylinder: 105 psi


After I did the wet test, i tried starting the engine once more, and it actually almost fired up. Um, I noticed that since I have been trying to start the engine, there is a very small oil leak coming out of the bottom left side of the head from the front.

Any ideas where to go next?

Headgasket?
Pistons?
Valves?
Piston Seals?

EDIT: Changed the headgasket, cleaned the valves, piston rings look good. and there are no signs of cranks on the block or head. Still not starting. And still getting the same compression numbers


After letting it set over night, I went out, today while it warmer, and did another compression test, dry

Cylinder #1 100 psi
#2 120 psi
#3 120 psi
#4 100 psi

 

Did you check the timing? You might also have to flip that spinny thing on the dizzy over and try it the other way.

 

The timing is perfect, its at TDC and I did that before I put the engine into the car.

I also just got done trying starting fluid, and that wouldn't work either.

 

check your grounds, i've heard of ppl not being able to start thier car because of the grounds. also check if your getting fuel. fuel and spark are two main things a car won't start. you've checked spark so your good there but check the fuel. good luck i hope you get it started soon!

 

Your absolutely 100% sure that the CYP (Cylinder Position) sensor that you have yet to hook up is not necessary to run your engine...... That controls the sequential fuel injection to each cylinder.... I would imagine that the fuel being delivered in proper order would be an integral part of the PGMFI system. But I have never done a swap like this one so I'm just going buy trouble shooting the PGMFI system. and a code 9 is usually a cause for a no start situation.

Even then after you saying that you tried starter fluid and you still have no go...... with just a little bit of spark that stuff usually gives at least a kick or two. How did you check for spark? Did you check it at the plug?

 

Well I've confirmed through several sources, including jlicrx, and my buddy who has his own import shop and has been working on hondas and acuras for 11 years, that I do not need the CPS to start the car. The car would be extremely sluggish untill it warmed up, but it should be able to be started.

I checked the spark, first by using a screwdriver in Wire #1. Then by using a old a spark plug. And I even took all four wires out, and put spark plugs into each and had my girlfriend crank it over and they all sparked.

 

OK then if it's not the CYP and according to you, you have fuel going into the combustion chamber, spark @ the plugs and the timing is bang on..... The only two things left are grounds & compression....have to checked your vehicles wiring diagram to ensure that all required grounds have been connected? After you make sure that all of the grounds are connected try a compression test. Did you get any compression numbers from the place you bought the engine?

 

Well, no I didn't I've been looking for the compression numbers but haven't been successful in finding them. I don't have any way to check the compression, at least not today, unless someone knows a homegrown way to test it. My neighbor seems to think its not the compression, because its making that sound like its trying to start, that da cha da cha da cha da cha I'm going to check my spark plugs and see if they smell like gas...

Do you know any other ways I can test the fuel injectors?

I also just had my girlfriend (computer nerd and electrial wiz) check all the wiring for me again, she said it all seemed to be fine, but she suggested that if the compression test comes back ok, to let her redo all the wiring.

Question: If there is gas on the spark plugs, then that means that fuel injectors are working, so it wouldn't have anything to do with the DPFI-MPFi wiring changes would it?

 

Hooked up the CPS still the same thing no start, im checking compression tomorrow. I'm thinking one of the pistons may be fried,

 

bump

 

Your wet compression test numbers seem consistent. They should be between 192-135psi with the engine warm. I'm not 100% if running the test on a cold engine would cause that much of a difference or not. Have to let someone else chime in....

If you want to check your injectors try this. When your cranking the engine use your multimeter to probe the two wires of the Fuel injectors to see if they are getting power. Or you could hold the tip of a long shaft screwdriver up against the metal barrel of the injector. Then place your ear to the handle and listed for a click/knock. If you here a click/knock then your injectors are operating.

Only way to tell if they are getting fuel is via fuel pressure gauge or, with the engine off, unhook the fuel line going to the fuel rail. If there is pressurized fuel in there then they are getting fuel.

How did you wire the injectors..... one wire should be a constant 12v power source from the PGMFI (main relay) and the ground wires go to the ECU?

 

I changed the head gasket, valves looked good, pistons looked good. wasn't any signs of cracks.

The motor has not been started in months, and it has been between 17-28 degrees here all month, so maybe it has to do with the cold, for the low compression.

Any ideas... I'm stumped and frustrated.

I really want to get her running.

I'm going to sell this car if anyone is interested, I don't have any transportation.

 

After letting it set over night, I went out while it warmer today, and did another compression test.

#1 100 psi
#2 120 psi
#3 120 psi
#4 100 psi