ok guys so here is my problem. I swapped in an ls motor into my 4 door ex... Plug and play right? Motor was running fine for quite a while on an automatic ecu which at one point threw a code 1 o2 sensor a code 12 egr which is only on autos and a code 43. The car ran fine with no problems.

Now I know why it was throwing a code 1 the o2 is not connected and the code 12 because it's not a motor from an automatic car. Now Im unsure of why I was throwing a code 43.

Now I reset the ecu and I only threw a code 12. No o2 code and no fuel system code. I then began experiencing a whole new problem. The car would bog and stutter under throttle. If I gave a oil throttle I would be cool the problem happens under more of a throttle load.

Also my tach began acting weird as in jump around an when I say jump I'm talking about jumping like below and above around 2000 rpms from the true rpms.

I checked my grounds and added more grounds still the same problem. I changed my fuel relay from my homies db1 same problem. I then changed to his obd0 manual tranny ecu same problem but no more code 12. It throws a code 1 after a lil driving. Also no code 43.

It has me stumped because it was driving fine and pulled hard and it just began all of a sudden.

Thanks for any help!

 

wow, nobody!?? Well I changed the dizzy, map sensor, fuel relay, and the ecu to a manual tranny pr4, from my homies 4 door teg and the bogging pretty much stopped as did my tachometer jumping around so I know my dizzy is bad for sure. Now it only bogs at high rpm, heavy throttle like 80%+ and around 5000 rpms or under WOT sometimes under any condition but at times it will be fine...

Not sure what the problem is, as it was running perfectly fine as it was and then all of a sudden this...

 

rpm all over the place could be a bad ignitor.

which pr4 are you using... obd0 or obd1? also, which injectors are you using? resistor box?

 

I was running an obd0 auto pr4 now it's a manual with obd0 injectors and resistor box.

 

Definitely get yourself a new distributor and manual ecu. As for the bogging at WOT; it drives fine at partial throttle, but as soon as you hit WOT it bogs? Does this happen throughout the rpm range? Honestly it sounds like the TPS has its signal crossed, reading WOT at throttle closed and closed at WOT. Try swapping the outer two wires on the TPS and see what it does. Sounds like theres a good chance that that is the issue.

 

Hmm but it wasn't doing it before but as soon as I get home I will check those wires. I got an ecu and I'm going to swap the parts from my single cam dizzy to the dual cam since internally they are the same distributors. The only thing that changes is the mounts, and the single cam dizzy is a freSh remanufactured unit.

 

I know that you don't have to swap those wires until you go OBDI, i just wanted to rule it out.

After replacing the ecu and distributor check those wires and see how it runs. If the bogging doesn't go away, hook up a fuel pressure gauge and watch the fuel pressure when it bogs, obviously if it drops, you have a fuel system issue. Didn't you originally get a code 43? That's a code for the fuel system. The code normally doesn't get set off, it's probably still the root of your issue. Do you have a 88-91 service manual that you can use to help troubleshoot the code?

 

wow... this problem is drving me nutz!

The other day I replaced the dizzy, ecu, fuel relay, and map, and it ran pretty cool, but I had to give the relay and ecu back to my homie because they were from his DB1.

Today I replace them with my own, and no matter what ECU goes in, I get a check engine light at all times, and my fuel relay clicks everytime it bogs out.

I'm thinkning that there is something wrong with the wiring inside the car. Luckily I have another interior harness that if necessary I can replace it with. But I have no clue what is causing the relay to click and make the motor bog out. I also have a faint smell of gas inside of the car.

I'm for sure losing fuel pressure but that would be due to the relay losing power, but now the question is what can be causing the relay to do that?

I'm uploading a video to show what I am talking about. Hopefully it is up soon...

 

x mas eve bump, because I need an answer asap!

here are the vids!...

 

You didn't say whether or not that you had access to a factory service manual. So here's a link to several. Download the ef manual and follow the troubleshooting guide for the fuel system within the fuel and emission section.

http://hondatech.info/downloads/Auto/Manuals/Civic

 

will do, thanks.

 

ok so I started troubleshooting at the main relay since that is what I believe is giving me problems.

According to the FSM, when I hook up a multi meter to pin 4 blu/wht and pin 2 blk, I should show positive 12 volts when I turn the ignition to the START position.

It doesn't show voltage, but the other wires as it states to test in the FSM show voltage.

I also checked for fuel flow. The pump does turn on, but does not put out enough fuel out as it states in the FSM which is 7.8oz, and it barely put out maybe around 2 oz or so.

I believe the motor is being starved of fuel which is why it cuts out at higher RPMs.

According to the manual, it could be a clogged fuel filter (the filter is BRAND NEW, just put it on after the swap) a clogged fuel line, or a pressure regulator failure. Now I didn't have this problem with the swap in my other EF2, so I'm guessing it might be a fuel line clog.

How should I go about tackling this problem?

Is it possible the fuel pump/strainer itself is clogged and I should replace it?

 

Check the fuel flow before the filter and see if there is any difference, and/or check it coming right out of the tank. If it's no good at the tank I would suspect that the pump is pooched.