My build is almost complete!!!
I had no choice but to start the build I was supposed to start next year. I hydrolocked my car six months after having my H23 overhauled, head shaved .030mm and used usdm H22 pistons to bump compression a little. Here's what I'm building:
H23vtec:
My build consists of:
H22 Crower stage 2 cams
H22 Crower dual valve springs and retainers
H22 Ferrea valve seals
H22 Ferrea valve guides
H22 head port and polished with a 3 angle valve job
H23 re-honed block
H22 Type s pistons
H22 ARP head bolts
H23 Probe Industries connecting rods
H23 micropolished and balanced crankshaft
H23 OEM main and rod bearings
That's basically the complete motor build and everything will be balanced in order to be able to rev up to H22's specs.
An aftermarket oil cooler with filter relocator will also be added.
Now with the air flow:
Skunk 2 70mm TB
H22 OEM Intake Manifold, ported and polished and match ported to 70mm, I also bought a separate piece for the TB with had something removed, forgot what it was, but it's welded on both sides.
KMS EGR blocking plate
Custom made race header, here's a pic:
http://s523.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture193.jpg
I don't know how loud it will be, but it's an side exit header, that's it, not cat or pipes, just the header.
I will be using a BPI flowstack instead of a cold air intake.
Fuel system upgrades:
AEM fuel rail
Aftermarket, I forgot the brand, Fuel Pressure Regulator
I'm also installing:
Findanza cam gears
Greddy racing timing belt and balancer belt
MSD 6al box, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD spark plug wires, MSD distributor cap, Nology Silver spark plugs.
Gates racing 160 degrees thermostat.
Transmission:
Clutchmasters Stage 2 clutch
Clutchmasters 8lb flywheel
Weapon R short shifter adapter.
ECU will be a P28 mapped for H22 and already socketed for tuning, I sitll don't know who's gonna tune it, but the car will be ready in about 2 or three weeks.
A/C system will be completely removed
P/S system will be removed as well.
Any feedback or comments are welcome!
Here's a pic of the port and polish job that is being done to the head:
http://s523.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture318.jpg
Everything's cheaper here so P&P and three angle valve job is going to be less than $400 bucks.
H23vtec:
My build consists of:
H22 Crower stage 2 cams
H22 Crower dual valve springs and retainers
H22 Ferrea valve seals
H22 Ferrea valve guides
H22 head port and polished with a 3 angle valve job
H23 re-honed block
H22 Type s pistons
H22 ARP head bolts
H23 Probe Industries connecting rods
H23 micropolished and balanced crankshaft
H23 OEM main and rod bearings
That's basically the complete motor build and everything will be balanced in order to be able to rev up to H22's specs.
An aftermarket oil cooler with filter relocator will also be added.
Now with the air flow:
Skunk 2 70mm TB
H22 OEM Intake Manifold, ported and polished and match ported to 70mm, I also bought a separate piece for the TB with had something removed, forgot what it was, but it's welded on both sides.
KMS EGR blocking plate
Custom made race header, here's a pic:
http://s523.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture193.jpg
I don't know how loud it will be, but it's an side exit header, that's it, not cat or pipes, just the header.
I will be using a BPI flowstack instead of a cold air intake.
Fuel system upgrades:
AEM fuel rail
Aftermarket, I forgot the brand, Fuel Pressure Regulator
I'm also installing:
Findanza cam gears
Greddy racing timing belt and balancer belt
MSD 6al box, MSD Blaster 2 coil, MSD spark plug wires, MSD distributor cap, Nology Silver spark plugs.
Gates racing 160 degrees thermostat.
Transmission:
Clutchmasters Stage 2 clutch
Clutchmasters 8lb flywheel
Weapon R short shifter adapter.
ECU will be a P28 mapped for H22 and already socketed for tuning, I sitll don't know who's gonna tune it, but the car will be ready in about 2 or three weeks.
A/C system will be completely removed
P/S system will be removed as well.
Any feedback or comments are welcome!
Here's a pic of the port and polish job that is being done to the head:
http://s523.photobucket.com/albums/w...Picture318.jpg
Everything's cheaper here so P&P and three angle valve job is going to be less than $400 bucks.
Great, just in time for winter hehehe? Have you flowed your head? I ported mine when i was at wyotech and really didnt get to much for inprovment (+5%) Then again it was my first port and polish and i didnt want to pierce the water jacket
I don't think if I'll wrap it or not, one thing I know, the header is gonna be very loud, since it ends by the crank area, there's no pipe after that, pure header. It's not heavy at all, I'll weight it tomorrow.
Would the stock injectors be ok for this build?
Would the stock injectors be ok for this build?
If this is for race only what kind of racing will it be for? It looks like a pretty good build. Good luck and use some oil additive that has some zinc dithiophosphates to prevent rocker wear.
It's gonna be my weekend beater, not strickly for the track.
What oil is that you're talking about? I'm planning on using 10w30 for the break in and then changing to full synthetic valvoline.
What oil is that you're talking about? I'm planning on using 10w30 for the break in and then changing to full synthetic valvoline.
Trending Topics
So my engine is already here, the mechanic is gonna start to work on it tomorrow, he was telling me that my 6al msd box won't be good enough, I got msd blaster 2 coil, msd wires msd distributor cap and rotor. Apparently he wants me to buy something else but he didn't finish telling me what it was. My CR will be about 11:5.1, crower stage 2 cams. The engine specs are on top of this thread, so if any of you have any knowledge or can give me some advise I'd appreciate it because I kind of doubt what the mechanic told me.
Your mechanic doesnt have a clue, stock ignition it good enough for almost any all motor build. I am running a close build to yours(mahle pistons skunk pro2's and an h22 crank) and still use an f22 coil and ngk wires to this day.
Ditch all that msd crap its not going to do any good.
Also i have never heard of a thermostat that low try something more conventional
Ditch all that msd crap its not going to do any good.
Also i have never heard of a thermostat that low try something more conventional
Pistons are nippon oem size type s, 11:1.1 I believe.
I already have all this msd stuff so I don't know what I'm gonna do with it. The mechanic want's to make it a reliable all motor build he said and all the msd stuff might be hard to sell.
I already have all this msd stuff so I don't know what I'm gonna do with it. The mechanic want's to make it a reliable all motor build he said and all the msd stuff might be hard to sell.
Regarding the MSD parts:
http://forum.ectune.com/viewtopic.ph...ote=viewresult
It seems to be a toss-up. Never used the stuff personally, but I've seen all kinds of problems posted here about messing with the stock ignition. I don't think I've ever seen someone post an actual dyno gain by switching to aftermarket ignition components (unless their stock stuff was worn out in the first place, or they were switching to CoP or something crazy like that). Of all the parts in the stock ignition, the plugs and wires seem to matter the most.
http://forum.ectune.com/viewtopic.ph...ote=viewresult
It seems to be a toss-up. Never used the stuff personally, but I've seen all kinds of problems posted here about messing with the stock ignition. I don't think I've ever seen someone post an actual dyno gain by switching to aftermarket ignition components (unless their stock stuff was worn out in the first place, or they were switching to CoP or something crazy like that). Of all the parts in the stock ignition, the plugs and wires seem to matter the most.
Thanks a lot, I'll probably just start selling the msd 6al box and all the other stuff, I'll just keep the wires and get some nology silver spark plugs, thanks!!
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post




