i right now have a boomslang obd2b to obd1 harness in my ek, and after some time the pins broke off from the ecu side. is there anyone out there that makes a better quality harness?

 

Your harness was probably a cheap china made harness. We sell hand made harnesses using oem honda spec parts :-)

 

Like I told him many years ago when he first started copying my harnesses, the pins need to be cut down from the plug....not just bent straight and left there. The pins are too long and create a moment arm for premature failure.

With the pins cut down shorter, you remove the area that has been bent straight and have a smaller moment arm for failure. If you need one, go to rywire.com and get one of theirs (My old ones).

 

rywire.com gets my vote

 

ok so they retail the same but whats the quality difference between rywire and phearable ... im assuming that with the overpriced skunk2 harness your paying $75 for the harness and $82.20 for the skunk2 name?

rywire-$75.00
phearable-$75.00
skunk2-$157.20

 

pretty much.

I've seen a lot of hacked up conversion harensses out there. I know the local shop around here sells ones with like a quarter of an inch of the pin sticking out (from the end of the connector) which makes for a very easy to break connection. I've fixed a bunch of these (prolly cheaply made) harnesses. I like to leave like 3/4" of the pin sticking out to solder the wire to. I've been making these harnesses for like 4+ years now and have only had a problem with 2-3 now.

I've never heard anyone complain about the rywire or phearable.net harnesses.

 

Look at them all closely. You will figure something out really quickly.

 

Looks like they all use the same manufacturer and just threw different colour wires in for each company? At least they all look the same to me. I would never pay $157 for a conversion harness, $75 is steep enough for $20 in parts and $5 labor...lol j/k

I'm sure yours are of higher quality and that you pay the guys who hand craft them more than the guy in china who hand crafts the "cheap" ones.

 

I still am blown away that Skunk still charges this price...and they still sell them. The phearable pictures are ones from boomslang, but to my knowledge, I believe he is selling Rywire harnesses now. Some say $75 bucks is too expensive....it goes further than you think. For the harnesses that I used to make and still promote, they have to lease the machines that crimp all the pins, the machines that strip all the wire ends precisely and hand bend/cut the pins on the female ecu plug. Sure the parts may only cost about $20 dollars or so to get, but you have to buy in huge amounts with overhead. But factor in the price of the machines and break it down....the profit is really small. Now factor in all these people trying to undercut everyone else and you get a really crappy market for these.

I have hand built more harnesses than anyone on this board easily and since selling my business, I call it how I see it. You will not go wrong with the Rywire stuff. Its all my designs and have been proven in thousands of cars. I still am running one of my original ones from 6 years ago.

 

Yeah I know what your saying about the parts and equipment... I just like to stir up the pot a bit. People could actually do this stuff for so much less on there own if they took some time. It always seems that no one has the time or the money. They spend less and expect to get the best from it. If saving money is all they are concerned about there going to get crap. And if it's a quality harness your looking for your going to pay. or you could put the quality into your own hands, that way you would only have yourself to bad mouth on the internet if something breaks.

I agree that $75 is a good price from what I have seen of these harnesses. I have seen them well abused.... The Rywire harnesses stand up well to being pulled at and constantly switched around.

 

i agree 75 is a fair price ... hmm the only difference i could see from the pictures are as said by ghostaccord ... different color wires lol

 

Can we just de-pin the obd2 conectors and just pin them into the obd1 connectors so we wont have to deal with the jump harness? Reason i ask this is im in the start of wire tuck and just de-pin all my connectors to the ecu.

 

No... I just finished converting all my OBD2 pins to OBD1. The OBD1 and OBD2 ECU pins do not have the same pin lock configuration and they are different sizes. Trust me I checked. If it were that simple I would have done it that way and saved quite a bit of time......

 

So how did you end up doing it then? new pins?

 

Nope I did it the long hard way. I couldn't find anyone to supply me with the pins or the tools to crimp them...So I had to adapt and overcome.

I had bought a cheap OBD1 conversion harness 2 years ago for $20. I cut it up and left 1/4" of stripped wire on the OBD1 connector pins. Then I cut, stripped and soldered all of my OBD2 wires to the ends of the OBD1 clips. Making sure that I swapped all the proper OBD2 to OBD1 pins of course. I tested every single one of them with my voltmeter and I know that they are all 100% good to go!

I also removed any unnecessary wires for sensors that I'm no longer using and added any wires for the things that I am going to be using.... VTEC, and IAB pins.

In the middle of the soldering & OBD1 to OBD2 pining process.........



as you may or may not be able to tell. I have time to kill!

And the finished product, OBD1 ECU with OBD2 wire harness.



No you will not see any posts from me..... "Just finished a wire tuck and my car won't start". Because if it doesn't work I have no one to blame but myself and I know exactly what to do. Burn it and pay someone else to do it right...

Cheers

 

Very Nice!!!

Now i know i going to get a smart answer for this but how do you test to make sure you have the right wire in the right slot? I was just going to use my obd jump harness and trace the wires to fine where they went.

 

Thank you,

By testing the wires I meant that I did a resistance test on every soldered wire before I put the shrink wrap to it and plugged it into the ECU connector. I didn't physically test if they were in the proper pin locations.

I am trusting my OBD1 & OBD2 Mitchells electrical wiring diagrams. Them and the fact that I have done my own conversion harness before. I have 4 pages of notes and drawings from that experiance, that worked great.

In the top image above you can just see the bottom of my clip board with a few of my sheets clipped on it. And my trusty laptop with my Mitchell's diagrams ready to go with the click of a mouse button.

 

So what would a guy like me do to get the resistance spec if i dont have access a Mitchell?

 

The resistance for a wire from end to end should always be 000. You don't want any resistance in your wires.

The mitchell's electrical diagrams are just that. They are line drawings that show the wire colours, pin locations and how the wire is routed from the ECU to the corresponding sensor or solenoid.

 

thanks man you been alot of help. Now im just looking for the connectors let me know if you come across some.

 

Go to your local junk yard find yourself a OBD1 Civic, Integra, Accord and cut the harness 3" from the ECU... That is if they'll let you. It's not like there aren't enough of them around.

 

My Rywire harness is great and has no issues.