Ok. So, I'm a car guy. I love to work on cars (fun work) and I'm pretty good with tools.

I've been and still am predominately a Ford guy, but I've recently (2 days ago) picked up a 98 Accord EX for a daily commuter. (not my first Honda either (previously had a 97 Accord LX 2 door back when it was new and an 89 CRX HF)

Overall in good shape, 141000 miles, already had the timing belt, water pump and cam seals replaced at 110k. Got it at a local Honda dealer and got a 12 month warranty with it.

Got a pretty good deal on it mainly because the clearcoat is peeling in spots on the hood and roof. (Car is black) Interior is probably a 9 out 10. Really clean.

So, I've had it two days and I'll be damned if the driver's door actuator didn't go out. Or at least I think.

Yes, I've searched and read through several posts today, but I just want to confirm my findings.

Ok, here it goes:

Key: Locks and unlocks both doors, no problem.
Keyless remote: Only locks and unlocks the passenger door.
Driver and Passenger side door switches both unlock and lock the pass. door only. Neither will lock or unlock the driver's door.

Actuator, correct? Or could it be a disconnected rod or something electrical?

Also at the same time of discovering this, the remote no longer pops the trunk. The remote was in pretty bad shape and had two unlock buttons instead of one and a trunk one. It was pretty chewed up.

Just talked to the salesman and he scored me a newer used one that's in good shape. Free. I'll just have to get it programmed. (Already looked up how to do that)

I've already done some searching on replacing the actuator and I hate the idea of pulling the door panel off plus actually removing the whole assembly, but what are you gonna do?

Thanks for your time.

 

Actuator, YES.

The microswitch portion is still viable, but the electromagnet portion is shot. My wife's Civic is my next project for just the same thing. The remote may have to be reprogrammed. If that doesn't take care of it, have a look at the trunk actuator - it may be mis-adjusted

P

 

+1 on the actuator. I usually sell the entire door lock assembly, otherwise its a PITA to install.

 

Thanks guys. Just sucks that I'll have to replace it.

The trunk has some kind of electrical connection and a little black box looking thing right on the latch on the lid. I noticed a screw was loose that holds that plastic thing to the metal latch assembly. There's a wire connection with an eyelet that's on that screw. I'm wondering if it's a loose ground. The trunk pop was working via the remote when I bought it but not now.

The interior lever works with no problem, though I believe that's cable operated.

 

Well, now I'm not so sure. What worked this morning (key) now doesn't work.

Just now, went to lunch and the key no longer works the driver's side door. It fits in easily and the action turning either direction is smooth, but it will not lock or unlock the driver's door.

Passenger door works fine. Still the actuator?

 

Sounds like somewhere in the vehicle's past, someone tryed an illegal entry thru the front door.
It sounds like the link rod between
the lock cylinder and the Lock Mechanism has come adrift. It may be a simple matter of reattaching it.
The Actuator is still on the hit list

P

 

I was afraid the actuator was still messed up.

I'm just hoping the plastic piece on the lock mechanism where the rod attaches isn't broken. That's happened on my girlfriend's 91' Accord. Driver's side. Ugh.