im new to honda tech but hell il give it a shot i have an 89 civic dx with a d15b7 swap an i replaced the brake booster an bled the brakes all four of the an still dont have any peddle(it goes to the floor!)the car stops very slowly its my DD an need it fixed my mine is boggled any tips tricks or fixes would be highly apreaciated i have kids an its not safe to drive like this

 

In what order did you bleed the brakes (which wheel was 1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th)?
Did you replace the master cylinder AND did you bench bleed it?

 

1dr,f 2pas,r 3dr,r 4 pas,r yes i used a 93 gsr master cyl and wth is bench bleeding i bled the rotors and drum cylinders would it fix the prob if i put6 my 4 wheel disks on an prop valve?

 

Should be starting with the wheel furthest from the master cylinder.
Next is the opposite wheel.

1 - pass rear
2 - driver front
3 - driver rear
4 - pass front

 

well ive tried alot of things im gonna try it your way orput my disk set up on it its just odd ive nevr had this problem B4 an its hard to take two kids with you in a delslo lol

 

Bench bleeding -
You take the master cylinder and secure it in a table mounted vice with the 'front' (the end that does not mount to the booster) NOT tilted upwards.
MC in the car is tilted up and will not bleed properly! You will be left with an air bubble in the MC.
Fill the reservoir with fluid and manually actuate the master cylinder to pump fluid through it.
If you buy a master cyclinder from the store it typically comes with short clear hoses that screw on to the posts and recycle the fluid back into the MC.
You pump until all the bubbles stop appearing in the tubes.
The idea is to get all the air out of the MC - any air in the system will compress when you press the brakes. Brake fluid doesn't compress so my guess is that you have lots of air in your lines.

No... I don't think swapping to the rear to disc is going to solve this.

 

Link to a guide
http://www.superchevy.com/technical/...nch/index.html

 

thanx i appreaciate the info ill try this in the morning i ask the same Q? on tamparacing an got called a dumb *** that my lines have holes in it wich i kno isnt true cause im not losing fluid

 

ok i bench bled them an no luck i bleed them again no luck ?im starting to worrie about it

 

this is probably no help, but my brakes were shitty on both my ef's (you could push the pedal to the floor, and they stopped like poo) I just changed the front calipers, rotors and pads and the pedal is super firm and only depresses as much as any other car I've driven. I thought ef's just had crap brakes to start with!!! GL man

 

ive owned nothin but efs this is my 6th one ive had since i was 16 im 20 now never had this problem its got new rotors an pads il change the calipers an see if it makes a difference the car has been parked now due to the fact the rear motor mount bolts came out as i was driven i was getten in to it i belive second to third the motor swung forward and the passanger side cv axle hit the lca an broke the cv axle

 

Sorry to hack in your thread here but I was wondering. I just swapped over my front caliburs...would I need to still bleed my rears? Or me just doing the front would work?

 

just the fronts

 

ok.. silly question, but was this the reason why you replaced the booster in the first place or did this start happening after you replaced the booster?

i say this cuz i had a 96 civic and i did the slotted rotors in the front. and when i went to push the brakes it went to the floor. come to find out the the disk thickness of the new rotors were not to oem spec. put some oem ones on and worked like new. just a thought if u need new rotors and pads.. may sound silly but just letting u know from one of my expeirences

 

i found the problem it was the gasket between the vac booster an the fire wall i forgot to put it on since then the pedals super hard