Well, my ZC swap is just about finished. I started the car for the first time today since I got the new motor in, and I'm getting a code 5 (MAP sensor), and a code 14 (IACV). Now I'm kind of stuck. I know what the codes are, but have no idea how to correct the problem, or even really what to look for. If anyone can help, I'd appreciate it.

 

Anyone?

 

Not being there it's hard to help ya out, especially after a swap. Wires could be crossed, connectors could be dirty, smashed, etc. So I got these trouble trees from AllData for ya. Hope you can figure it out with these.

Code 14



Code 5


Let us know what you find. Good luck!

 

Thanks. I did find one of my problems. I was using the wrong connector at the EACV. Now when I start the car though, I'm getting a code 7 for TPS and the car immediately jumps to redline. I did switch the wires at the TPS before I put the motor in, so I don't think that's the issue. I even switched them back to see if that made any difference, and it still jumped to redline, so I switched them back AGAIN. Oh well. Time for beer and more troubleshooting.

 

Amen to that. Beer is needed over here too.
When does it jump to redline? Right when the car is fired up?

 

Yeah, right away. It's at redline within 2-3 seconds of starting. It did the same thing when I completely disconnected the TPS as well. I'm starting to wonder if it's maybe just a bad TPS altogether. It's the one that was shipped to me with the motor, so the condition is unknown. The car started as a DX. Can I use the TPS that was on the DX motor and swap the wires back to their original spots?

 

No I'm pretty sure the DX tps is oriented differently and that's the reason for swapping the wires in the first place. They're not interchangeable.
I had an issue like this when i swapped my old DX hatch to mpfi. But mine would idle ok and drive ok, but once I got into the throttle enough it would bog hard. I couldn't figure it out myself so I had to take it to my mechanic. He ended up swapping two wires on the driver's side shock tower harnes plug. I'm sorry I can't remember what they were, but it's a thought. I remember them being blue wires.
If you disconnect your tps and it still does the same thing then it's not the sensor itself but it's in the wiring.

Here's a trouble tree for the TPS, code 7



My thought is you have a shorted wire between the signal wire and your power wire. That'll make the ecu think you're at WOT and it'll cram fuel in there to make her rev for all she's got. Good luck.

 

I've gone through the first few steps on the tps trouble tree, and so far everything looks good. Now I'm a little bit stuck though. The instructions are talking about a pgm-fi test harness...Is this something that's built onto the car as a diagnostic tester, or is it something I have to make or buy? I've never heard of one of these before. I also don't have a vacuum pump, which may make any further testing for this problem somewhat difficult based on the diagrams.

 

The PGM fi test harness is a harness that goes between the ecu and the plug for the ecu. It just makes it easy to probe the wires and test their voltages. Some people will say don't probe through the wires' insulation and this is true, on some wires you won't want to do that because of the risk that you can make a short occur. But with the voltages that most of the wires run at the ecu there isn't a big concern there. Just get a couple T pins and use those to probe into the wires that you need to test and hook your volt meter to the T pins. The pins are sharper and pointer than the test leads on the volt meters so you won't make as big of an opening in the wiring. I would recommend putting electrical tape over the points where you probe the wires just to be safe. Doing this makes it so you don't need the PGM fi test harness. That's an expensive 'special tool' that the dealerships have. Kinda gay if you ask me. You'll be fine testing things this way.

 

Well, turns out the pgm-fi test harness runs about 150-200, so that's pretty much out of the question. guess I'll have to find another way to make this work.

 

THe vacuum pump/gauge is a pretty inexpensive tool. If you can barrow one, but if not, go ahead and buy one.
Good luck man.

 

Well, I was having some trouble following those diagrams, so I reran the wires from the TPS straight to the main harness. So far I've only rerun the yellow/white and red/blue. Now the car runs the way it's supposed to (mostly...the idle is still a bit high, around 13-1500rpm), but I'm still getting a code 7, so I'm guessing it's something to do with the green/white wire. Also now out of nowhere I'm getting a code 6 for the water temp sensor. Well, back to work.

 

You probably have a short in your harness somewhere. Your sensors get there power from a common source so if there is a short between one it can affect others. Do you have a volt meter to test your wiring?

 

Yeah, I do have a volt meter. I'm thinking I may actually have a bad TPS though. I ran brand new wires from the TPS straight through the firewall bypassing the main harness entirely, to their corresponding locations on the ECU, and I still got a code 7. So I'm thinking bad TPS. The code 6 turned out to be a broken wire at the harness for the water temp sensor.