Advance Motorsport 2009 Project Car #1:
2001 AP1 S2000
Goal: Street/Track
Estimated Power: 400-450whp

Engine setup:
F22C OEM short block, cylinder bored out 0.25 os
Spoon 2.2L Stroker kit with balanced 0.25 OS piston (11.8CR), crankshaft, connecting rods:
Ceramic coated piston top
Teflon coated Piston Skirts, Crankshaft, and Connecting Rods
Rebuilt F20C head:
Supertech Stainless Steel OEM size valves
Supertech Double Valve springs
All new F22C retainers, valve guides, seals, gaskets
Spoon Head Gasket
ARP headstuds
Hondata Intake Manifold Gasket
F22C valve covers with 2006+ sensors (For Hondata Kpro)
NRG Engine Torque Damper with PuddyDad Mount
DME Radiator Cooling Plate
Krankvents
Skunk2 Magnetic Engine Oil Drain Plug
ENEOS 0W50 Engine Oil

Engine Breathing:
Megan Racing Header – Ceramic Coated
Invidia 70mm Testpipe with O2 Fix
Greddy TiC 70mm Turbo Exhaust
Custom Remote Exhaust Volume Controller

Forced Induction, Fuel System, and Engine Tuning:
Kraftwerks Supercharger YouTune System with Rotrex C30 Supercharger
Synapse Synchronic Blow Off Valve
RC Engineering 750CC Saturated Fuel Injectors
Walbro 255lh High Flow Fuel Pump
Hondata K-pro Standalone ECU
Snow Performance Meth/Water injection cooling kit

Engine Cooling:
Samco coolant hose
Mugen Fan switch
Mugen Thermostat

Transmission / Clutch:
PuddyMod Stage2 Differential Rebuild with 4.56 FD Gear
ACT Heavy Duty Pressure Plate
OEM AP1 Transmission
OEM AP1 Flywheel
OEM AP1 Clutch Disc
Skunk2 Magnetic Transmission Oil Drain Plug

Foot Work:
KW Variant 3 Coilover Suspenion
Cusco Front Sway Bar
Cusco Front lower member tie bar
Cusco Rear lower member tie bar
Cusco Chassis Ladder bar
OEM AP1 Rear Sway Bar
J’s Racing Front Roll Center Adjuster + camber kit
J’s Racing Rear Roll Center Adjuster
AP2 Rear Subframe
Megan Racing rear toe arm (Rear Bump Steer Kit)
Megan Racing front tie bar endlinks (Front Bump Steer Kit)
T1R Half Shaft Spacers

Wheel/Tires/Brakes:
Enkei RPF1 F:17x9 +45mm, R:17x9 +35mm
Bridgestone RE01R F:225/40-17, R:255/35-17
Carbotech XP10 brakepads (front)
Carbotech XP8 brakepads (rear)
Carbotech rotors
Motul 5.1 Brake fluid

Electronics:
Clarion Headunit
Braille Carbon Battery (11lb)
Racelogic Traction Control system with Launch Control

Exterior / Aerodynamics:
J's Racing TypeS V1 Aero Kit (Front, Rear bumper)
J's Racing TypeS Carbon Canards
J’s Racing Carbon 3D Type1 GT Wing
T1R Carbon Side Diffuser
ASM rear over fender (molded) (15mm wider)
Seibon carbon front wide fender (10mm wider)
Custom OEM Vented Hood
Custom Lamboghini White paintjob
LED DRL

Interior:
Custom wrapped Black Leather / Alcantara steering wheel
Custom Alcantara Shift Boot
Bride Brix II seats with Bride MO seat rails
Defi Boost Gauge
Defi EGT Gauge
Defi Fuel Pressure Gauge
AEM UEGO Wideband Gauge
Autometer Nitrous Gauge
Modifry Shift Beeper
Skunk2 Titanium Shift ****
Black Leather Center Console Cover


We are building this project car with balance in mind. We are aiming for a good overall balance with very reliable streetability. This is not a drag machine and we are not looking to get extreme peak power from the engine which is why we chose the supercharger over the turbo. We want a high revving engine with good engine response and thus we decided to experiment with the slightly higher compression along with a mild boost setup (8 – 10psi). We will be dynoing the car one step at a time, from all NA, to boosted, to more engine and headwork. This should be a fun and interesting project. This project has just started so it will probably take a while to complete. Stay tuned for more updates as we will be taking lots of pictures along the way.

Thanks!
Happy Holidays!


Here are some pics of the car at its current stage!!



Stripped interior in the trunk and sprayed with plastic Coat:


Defi Gauges:


Seibon Fenders:


The game plan, for all the wirings:


Traction Control:


KW Coilovers:


Old Engine is out:


New F22C short block still in the box:


Rebuilt F20C head:


Thanks it for now guys!

 

not to be a jack *** but I dont under stand why you would use the following parts...

Spoon 2.2L Stroker kit with balanced 0.25 OS piston (11.8CR), crankshaft, connecting rods < high compression pistons on a boosted motor?

Spoon Head Gasket < lowers compression over the OEM head gasket... why not a metal 2mm?

Mugen Fan switch

Mugen Thermostat

RC Engineering 750CC Saturated Fuel Injectors < go with 1000CC

OEM AP1 Transmission < BOOM!

OEM AP1 Clutch Disc < spending all this money to build the motor and your leaving the clutch stock?

PuddyMod Stage2 Differential Rebuild with 4.56 FD Gear < ???

 

No worries, any discuss is always good. Afterall, I am just a noob... lol

First about the higher compression and boost:

This is the part that we are experimenting
We did some math to calculate the effective compression ratio and thought the slightly higher compression might work with a mild boost setup. (8 to 10psi)

There are lots of people running their supercharger up to 12psi to 14psi of boost with stock compression ratio (11.1CR) reliably daily.

Following the formula of : ECR = ((boost psi/14.7) + 1) X engine compression ratio

12psi with 11.1CR = Effective Compression Ratio of 20.16

In our case with 11.8CR and 8psi of boost, the ECR will be 18.22. With 10psi of boost the ECR will be 19.83.

We figured an engine with a higher compression/lower boost will yield more mid range power which will be good for road track. This is especially true in the case of centrifugal charger where max boost is reached only at redline.

Obviously we will need very good tuning to make sure we are not detonating and blowing up the engine. We are also ceramic coating the piston top, as well as adding meth/water injection to lower the chance of detonating.

If in case the static compression ratio is really too high, then we will always have the option to use a thicker head gasket to lower the CR, but we will leave that to the last resort.

Spoon Head Gasket:

This is the head gasket that comes with the stroker kit. I have confirmed that this is not a thinner head gasket and will not further increase the compression. I am not sure what's different on the spoon head gasket, it is probably just a repackaged OEM head gasket.

Mugen Fan switch
Mugen Thermostat

Are there anything better? Or are we just wasting our money here.

RC Engineering 750CC Saturated Fuel Injectors < go with 1000CC:

I guess bigger is always better, but for the goals we have in mind, 750cc should be more then enough to do the job.

OEM AP1 Transmission < BOOM!:

I am not sure what you mean by this. Do you have any suggestions as to how we could improve this part? From what we know, many s2ks are running 400+ whp with no problem with the transmission, AP1 or AP2. The diffs on the other hand is a different story.

OEM AP1 Clutch Disc:

Yes, the clutch and flywheel is stock. Just for the record, the ACT clutch disc is just a repackaged OEM clutch disc. The pressure plate however is a heavy duty one from ACT. I guess these parts really depend on personal preference. However we have done our research and it seems many boosted s2k owners are very happy with this combo. They have claimed that this setup is able to hold the torque with no slippage and still remain very street friendly. I guess we won't know until we actually try it out. As for the flywheel, the AP1 flywheel is around 14lb while the AP2 flywheel is 21lb. There are lighter flywheels out there around 8lb. We have decided that for our application the 14lb AP1 flywheel is more suitable.

PuddyMod Stage2 Differential Rebuild with 4.56 FD Gear:

S2KPUDDYDAD is a sponsor on s2ki.com and he is well known for rebuilding differentials for s2k. The stage 2 upgrade is rebuilt from the housing in starting with every part being cryogenically thermo cycled, then new pinion bearings and seals are used to assemble. There is a one piece PuddyMod solid steel sleeve used instead of an OEM crush collar. The solid sleeve is made of 10/20 mandrel steel, it is seamless and will not compress under heavy stress like the OEM can. Solid sleeves are used in high performance drag racing rear ends because they work. The PM sleeve is a custom made part to fit the rear, it is a one piece steel sleeve. The stock bearing caps screws are replaced with a set with new 10.9 flange head screws. Backlash is set at 3 to 3.5 thousands giving a tighter gear to gear fit. This also includes a polished final drive gear available in 4.1, 4.3, 4.44, 4.56, 4.57, and 4.77.

 

why a megan header?

 

your mugen stat and fan switch is fine and will compliment the hondata IMG well. the motors compression is kinda high for my blood but i see you're using meth so that should help out even though i dont like using meth personally. your 750cc injectors should be more than enough for your setup, 1000cc will be overkill. im using 1000ccs and im going for 600+whp. OEM ap1 tranny should be fine for the power levels you want. your clutch setup is fine but i would rather use the same manufacture PP with the disc. again its personal preference... plus i hate ACT

 

my caution would be the stock disc with the ACT pressure plate, several guys on S2KI did that only to find it doesn't hold that much more torque over stock. I personally don't like ACT purely on personal experience. usually you end up with a heavy pedal pressure and a jittery engagement compared to ClutchMasters. on my buddy's SOT supercharged S2000 we put in the ClutchMasters FX300, their strongest clutch that still uses a street disc, that thing is awesome! literally the pedal pressure and smoothness of engagement feel identical to stock and it's good for up to about 400trq which is plenty for any of the supercharger kits out there now.

did you purchase the KW kit yet? if not take a look on S2KI, there's a little controversy about KW announcing they won't be releasing larger boost kits/pullies down the road. at this point guys are able to make more power with the Vortech kits since they can raise the boost to higher levels than the KW kit. if you really want the centrifugal style blower then it's worth looking into some more. otherwise if you haven't gotten a kit yet the eaton style Stage One Tuning kit is definately worth looking at, especially for road racing.

 

i personally dont like act also cause of personal experiences. ever since ive been running clutchmasters from my hatch to my s2000.

 

Megan Header, because we just had one lying around and decided to try it out. There are some positive feedbacks from others but I am sure it won't be as good as the J's racing one which cost many times more.

As for the clutch setup, I will definitely keep suggestions from you guys in mind and look more into it!

As for the supercharger, yes we have compared the kraftwerks and vortech closely. The Vortech definitely has more potential then the kraftwerks and are also quite a bit cheaper. The reason why we picked the kraftwerks is because we are not looking for too much boost with the compression we are running. We had a chat with kraftwerks, and they told us that their 2.2L engine with oem header, oem cat, and skunk2 exhaust, running with the 90mm pulley, dynoed at 406whp at 8psi. This is close to the power goals we have in mind.

I have also looked at the SOT charger and that is definitely another nice kit out there with the MP62 charger. I still remember the sound of the whine from my supercharged TL with the same charger. However the one thing that we didnt like about the SOT is that it made the engine bay look rather messy.

 

I STRONGLY suggest you check out the Kraftwerks threads on S2KI. NOBODY has hit 400whp on their 9.5psi kit with mods let alone being that close to stock and only 8psi. lots of guys on S2KI are pissed at what the real world / dynojet results are vs Kraftwerks magic advertised numbers. not to flat out call them liars, but just look through the threads to see for yourself.

Kraftwerks updated their dyno's on their site, probably because of the upset customers, they're now saying the 10psi kit is 364whp on their goofy superflow dyno, who knows how that translates to a dynojet. already that doesn't line up with what they told you on the phone

http://www.kraftwerksusa.com/kw-dyno.php?productId=8

http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php?showforum=142

 

I am well aware of all the dyno charts from kraftwerks as well as all the discussions on the forums.

First regarding the dyno charts as posted on the kraftwerk's website. The dyno is done on a stock 2006 S2000 with one of their DBW pretuned high boost kit. Since this is a pretuned kit, I would not be too surprised if the numbers are lower as it is probably not tuned as aggressively.

I do agree with you that the numbers do seem a bit low on that dyno chart with the high boost kit.

When I was talking to Kraftwerks and going over the setup, I have found that their project car is a AP1 with a 2.2L engine, which is not the same one used in the dyno. They are not running their pretuned kit as they are using E-manage to tune it. He mentioned 406whp at around 8psi with a redline of 8k with the smallest pulley. The only other mod is a skunk2 exhaust with both header and cat stock.



http://www.s2ki.com/forums/index.php...ic=644509&st=0

If you follow the above thread you will find another s2ki member with the kraftwerks youtune kit. He is tuning it with the F-CON and dynoed at 395 whp, and 282 wtq on a mustang dyno. If you look at his dyno chart, he reached max boost of 8.4psi at aroudn 7800rpm.

 

I have a few of the parts your thinking about getting.

Mugen Fan Switch and Thermostat: From my AEM EMS datalogger, the idle temps dropped 5 degrees at idle, 8-12 degrees depending on speed. Combined with my Mushimoto radiator, it dropped even more to 10 degrees lower at idle, 15-20 degrees depending on speed. My turbo setup will raise these temps though, such a large turbo (GT35R) will increase heat in the engine bay. So I'm glad I got these when I did.

ACT Clutch/OEM Disc combo: I'm planning on running this same setup, from my research, there are some that have had no problems for over 2-3 years, others that say it was the cause of their motor blowing up (due to crank walk). I think it should be fine, even with guys running over 500whp. I plan on making 500whp and I don't foresee it causing any problems. ALL NEW: ACT HD Pressure Plate, OEM Honda disc, OEM Pilot bearing, OEM Release bearing. I'm going with all new since their not too expensive.

AP1 Transmission: To be honest, I wish I went with a AP2 tranny. The guys at my shop recently installed a AP2 motor and tranny into a AP1, and found the driveshaft bolts are larger, and the AP2 also features Carbon-Coated synchros. It also features shorter gearing 1-5, with a longer 6th gear. Transmission will really just depend on how your drive the car.

PuddyMod Diff: I've had my PuddyMod diff for over 2 years now, I have had this diff longer than anyone else (I have his very FIRST diff that he ever built), and have had no problems at all. Ben is very very good at what he does, and you cant go wrong with him. He takes his time (but isn't slow), and does quality work. My gears (4.56) make almost NO noise compared to other diffs that are built by different people. His polishing and cryo-treating make a huge difference. His diffs handle incredible amounts of power. Someone in Europe is currently running 600+ whp in their car, and run his diff with no problems!


I do have a question, and is the same as Black S2K, why the Megan header? There is a HUGE weight difference (the megan weights almost 30 lbs less), but has near stock primaries. You may want to buy a Rick's 6+ or similar header. I've seen a lot of S/C guys run the Rick's with good results.

 

Thank you for the great feedback!

It's great to know I am not the only one thinking about this clutch combo. As for the tranny, I have heard good things of a AP1 tranny with F22C combo. It is however true that the AP2 tranny might hold up to the power a bit better.

Yes I do agree ben is a very great guy. Can't wait to get my diff from him!

For the megan header, it's basically still undecided. We just happened to have one lying around in the shop. Maybe I should take a look at the Rick's header.

Thanks!

 

what will your redline be?
what size pulley will the rotrex blower be using?


there are serious things to consider, such as the overspinning of the blower.
did OJR tell you that? unlikely, he likes to leave that out.

90mm, at 8200rpm is overspinning the output shaft by 7% and the input by even more. 11221 and 102228rpm, respectively.
the blowers slip more at this speed (the internals, not the belt) and that causes the failure.
failure means an exploding blower, sending **** flying everywhere.

i'm bulding a rotrex kit for the s2k, i know the blowers very well, and the capabilities of them.
we're still in R&D though.

 

I believe the pulley size is 90mm. With that pulley the redline needs to be set to 8k in order not to overspin the charger.

I am not 100% sure on this though.

 

yeah, that's wrong. 90mm overspins the blower at 8.
redline needs to be set to 7600rpm to avoid the overspin.

actually, the high boost kit (100mm) overspins it by like 1%, but thats only while pegging redline.

 

I will open up the package on Monday and double check the size of the pulley that is included with the kit.

Will report back on monday.

 

that's one of the issues they were talking about on s2ki, on the lowest boost you're overspinning before even hitting redline on an AP2. it's because they're using such a small charger, probably to try and get the most they can in the midrange.

another issue is that guys are having their idle pulley assemblies break, one guy's broke after 16,000 miles.

 

you can feel free to give me a call pretty much any time. (keep in mind the time difference)
i have lots of charts/xcel spreadsheets with the numbers you might be interested in.

basically, 90mm requires a 7600 redline, but it delivers boost faster than the 100mm, and thus gives 25 more torque across the entire power band. (as well as the increased hp)

i pm'ed you my cell.

 

Thanks! I will contact you in the near future to discuss about the blower. Thanks in advance for the info!

 

Okay more pics coming.

Getting the crank ready to ship out for Teflon coatings.


Took the stock F22C rods and piston out, and sent the block out to bore the cylinder.


Bling Bling, it's SPOON!!

 

nice to see progress

 

Who on s2ki had problems?

I'm running twice stock torque and the ACT pressure plate + factory disk is working fine.
At 20,000 miles I changed out the factory disk since it was thin. I have 6+ years on this pressure plate. Never any slip, not a heavy pedal and no jittery engagement.

 

how much power are you running and what dyno? you changed the disc and that probably saved you from having problems, or you just got lucky.

my point is just that if you're going to do all the labor to drop the tranny and play with the clutch, you might as well put in something that will hold a lot more power. the CM stage 3 will do that without giving you a lot of pedal pressure or a harsh engagement.

 

I believe sideways are running 450+ whp. He is the king of supercharged S2K on s2ki.com !!!

 

nice you guys are building that proper