Spark Plugs
Originally Posted by dpdawson
sweet. are those irridium plugs? can anybody explain what makes irridium (sp?) plugs different from a regular plug?
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From: Auburn Hills, MI, United States
I would also be really interested to see if they get too hot for the civic.
What i am thinking is that if they explode so large and violent then maybe then the heating and cooling would cause them to break off when trying to remove them.
I'm not an expert on this stuff, I have just heard about spark plugs running too hot.
What i am thinking is that if they explode so large and violent then maybe then the heating and cooling would cause them to break off when trying to remove them.
I'm not an expert on this stuff, I have just heard about spark plugs running too hot.
Ive used the pulse. idle and accleration were much more crisp and smoother fule eco was up by at least 4mpgs. i used to drive 700+ miles every month so ive tracked my mpgs for almost 3 years. stock air box with no ducting and no muffler+pluse plugs+89+cruise at 55=43.2mpgs thats 604miles to the tank. there was a noticeable difference. but my engine did end up spitting out a connecting rod at 180k but i dont think that was related.
Ive used the pulse. idle and accleration were much more crisp and smoother fule eco was up by at least 4mpgs. i used to drive 700+ miles every month so ive tracked my mpgs for almost 3 years. stock air box with no ducting and no muffler+pluse plugs+89+cruise at 55=43.2mpgs thats 604miles to the tank. there was a noticeable difference. but my engine did end up spitting out a connecting rod at 180k but i dont think that was related.
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Auburn Hills, MI, United States
Ive used the pulse. idle and accleration were much more crisp and smoother fule eco was up by at least 4mpgs. i used to drive 700+ miles every month so ive tracked my mpgs for almost 3 years. stock air box with no ducting and no muffler+pluse plugs+89+cruise at 55=43.2mpgs thats 604miles to the tank. there was a noticeable difference. but my engine did end up spitting out a connecting rod at 180k but i dont think that was related.
If the components weren't meant to take such a beating they could very well bust because of this.
i dunno man...that could very well be related dont you think? i mean ive heard that the spark off of those plugs can be pretty violent, thus creating the better fuel economy.
If the components weren't meant to take such a beating they could very well bust because of this.
If the components weren't meant to take such a beating they could very well bust because of this.
i was at 147k and i had stock air box no plumbing and no muffler just resantor.
Rod knock started and went out pretty fast this is after like 30 some k of highway driving.
Rod knock started and went out pretty fast this is after like 30 some k of highway driving.
Voltage for the spark is created by the coil(s). A spark plug by itself can not create more spark. It can however do a better job of providing a jumping off point and ground point for the spark. Dirty worn plugs don't 'fire' as well as new ones. The correct type of plug that is specified for your stock engine that is properly gapped will work fine. Multiple ground electrodes won't increase the spark intensity. They may provide multiple discharge points, but the spark would have to divide itself between them. Exotic discharge point materials like platinum or iridium mainly affect plug service life. But regardless, a spark plug can not cause an engine failure because the spark is "pretty violent". A plug with the incorrect heat range can however melt/disintegrate and cause a major headache.
To the OP IMHO there is no "best" spark plug. It depends on your budget, how often you want to change them, and other factors. If you don't want to weigh the pros and cons of what's out there then a stock replacement will suit you just fine. I personally use vpowers with a cut back ground strap.
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