Long story short track ***** ITR, blown motor, rebuilding the car for DD use.

The timing belt skipped a gear and all hell broke loose. Bottom end is not taken apart yet but piston #2 ended up hitting the head multiple times, bad bad news.


My question: while I have to replace most of the bottom end, I assume, Should I go oem, big bore, or stroker?

Would a big bore/ stroker be much more money when I am replacing the bottom end anywho?

Would a big bore/ stroker really make much more power or hurt the quick revs?

at this point some crazy JUN stroker kit for 6Gs is def out of the question.

thanks for the help in advance.

 

i believe crower makes a stroker for b18's

are you gonna keep the head? iknow you said its messed up shoot me a price as is k

 

the cyl #2 on the head has a nice stamped insignia from the piston hitting it. I suppose it is fixable.

 

Go K-series.

 

DD use=oem is always the best.

 

if you go k series then your gonna spend 10k to 12k on the swap unless you know how to doit your self.. you can build a b18c for less that 5k and boost it to get you like 600whp maybe even more..now will a built boosted b18c beat a k20a yes if the k20a is stock, but i have also heard that the k20a are really good with bolt ons..

 

Did you miss the track ***** part? 600whp doesn't play in with that very well.

Just do an LS crank, .5 overbore, some good rods/pistons, and have the head repaired.

 

How different is an ls crank from an itr one? and how big would a .5 overbore make it?

I dont think the cylinder walls are damaged at all. im game for boring it out unless its only going to give me 10 hp or something minor. the couple of hundred to do it doesn't seem worth that much hp.

 

just put the numbers/factors in a compression calculator... the LS crank will allow for more travel... greater compression. just run the numbers.

 

That's some good advice. For rods and pistons, I would suggest Carillo pro As and supertech pistons.

 

how would a setup like that last? as good as the oem motor?

 

Overbore isn't for power, its for ring seal. Put perfectly round pistons in a bore that isn't perfectly round and the rings aren't going to seal as well as they should.

LS crank is 89mm versus ITR 87.2mm

Longevity all depends on the clearances you use and how its assembled.

 

well harlys have big bore kits for more power they go from an 88inch ~1.4L to a 103 ~1.6L. I guess my point is how much displacement will be gained from an overbore.

I built a 351 for my 68 mustang but Im not to well versed in how to gain displacement with honda motors. And Im not to sure the cylinders even need more than honing.

Point being is if a harly can gain power from doing a bigbore kit to ~1.6L will a honda motor gain much going from an 1.8L to _._?

 

use this compression calculator... it's great as you can just change one thing at a time and see what it does or change whatever you want: http://www.zealautowerks.com/

 

Take the motor apart, examine what can be re-used. If your sleeves are scared passed the point of 81.25-82mm I would suggest considering what you want to do...

I.e. sleeving to 84mm & building a 2.0L all motor or turbo application etc...

 

that little thing is bad ***. so going to an 85mm will give me a 2.0L. any idea if that with higher compression would pass smog? ~11.2:1

 

for all motor, sleeved 84mm with 89mm stroke would be nice, around 1974cc
if u don't mind spending more money, get the briancrower 92mm stroke kit, 84x92 would be around 2040cc or 85x92 would be around 2089cc
i heard it is pretty nice stroke kit