best tires for negative camber?????
I bought some Nitto neo gens a while ago because I heard they are the some of the best tires for the price. I spent $360. Haven't heard anything else about these tire anyone know any thing??
extremely popular tire in my area for people who only own one set of wheels. the reason being: they do alright in light snow, good in rain, good in dry, wear is pretty good. overall they do everything fairly well. not as good in the dry as a BFG KD or falken 615, not as good in the wet as the goodyear F1-D3 and not as good in the snow as a real snow tire. overall they are a VERY solid choice for someone who rolls one wheel year round.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
Negative camber doesn't wear tires very much (if alignment has been done). Toe-out will cause bad wear that most people will mistake for negative camber wear if the car is lowered and has not been aligned.
I usually get 30K-40K miles on a set of 205/45-16 Yok ES100 tires with anywhere from -1.5 to -2.8 camber.
I usually get 30K-40K miles on a set of 205/45-16 Yok ES100 tires with anywhere from -1.5 to -2.8 camber.
good reminder on the toe. that without a doubt will destroy tires far faster than camber. the only flip side is that toe out in the front makes the car turn in faster. moderate toe out settings like .05 out don't seem to hammer on the tires nearly as much as the .15 or so you often get by dropping a car and not having the alignment fixed. IMO the factory toe settings are made to maximize tire life, not performance. keep this in mind before you align to factory toe specs. if you want the car to turn in quick and feel easier to drive into a corner, just a little toe out is really helpful.
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I'm rolling with those tires because I was told that they are inexpensive and a good daily driven tire. My car was aligned after I put the tires on. Since any car that is dropped creates negative camber I bought them.
actually the Nitto Neo Gens advertise such a tire...
"The Neo Gen is an all-season ultra high-performance radial specifically engineered for lowered vehicles. Because the inner shoulder is one continuous block, the tread maintains stability on lowered vehicles with higher degree of negative camber. This stability reduces tread flex and allows the tire to wear evenly. The result is a tire that prolongs performance on lowered vehicles."
I haven't used them so... no opinion here.
"The Neo Gen is an all-season ultra high-performance radial specifically engineered for lowered vehicles. Because the inner shoulder is one continuous block, the tread maintains stability on lowered vehicles with higher degree of negative camber. This stability reduces tread flex and allows the tire to wear evenly. The result is a tire that prolongs performance on lowered vehicles."
I haven't used them so... no opinion here.
One of these days, people like Patrick and me will simply stop posting this factual information, and you lemmings will be left to waste money on parts that do nothing except kill your suspension travel. (No offense to any non-lemmings that just happen to be in this thread.)
Patrick, no one believes us, because their salesman (er, mechanic) has told them that they need a camber kit.
Got 20k on my Toyo Proxes 4 so far, with 6/32" of tread left (half worn), and I run -4* of front camber on my Integra.
One of these days, people like Patrick and me will simply stop posting this factual information, and you lemmings will be left to waste money on parts that do nothing except kill your suspension travel. (No offense to any non-lemmings that just happen to be in this thread.)
Got 20k on my Toyo Proxes 4 so far, with 6/32" of tread left (half worn), and I run -4* of front camber on my Integra.
One of these days, people like Patrick and me will simply stop posting this factual information, and you lemmings will be left to waste money on parts that do nothing except kill your suspension travel. (No offense to any non-lemmings that just happen to be in this thread.)
Werd, I just had this argument on another forum. I'm tired of reiterating myself, and I'm sure you are as well.
Get an alignment every time you adjust your suspension, rotate your tires OFTEN (in the proper sequence), and skip the camber kits unless your looking for a specific camber setting. All they do is reduce your suspension travel.
Maintain your car properly and your tires will last just as long, regardless of the camber setting.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
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From: Nowhere and Everywhere
The ironic thing is that adjustable camber kits will end up costing you MORE money in the long run!!
Alignments will probably run well over $100 with adjustable camber kits, vs. about $60 to adjust toe only with stock parts. Then there's the cost of the camber kits themselves.
Get the car aligned, don't worry about camber kits, rotate tires often (3K-5K miles), and enjoy the better handling from having some negative camber. Tires WILL be fine if the tech did a good job on the alignment.
Alignments will probably run well over $100 with adjustable camber kits, vs. about $60 to adjust toe only with stock parts. Then there's the cost of the camber kits themselves.
Get the car aligned, don't worry about camber kits, rotate tires often (3K-5K miles), and enjoy the better handling from having some negative camber. Tires WILL be fine if the tech did a good job on the alignment.
The first question to ask yourself is whether you need summer tires, all-season tires, or winter tires. Keep in mind that these differ in terms of optimal temperature range as well as snow traction. Summer tires perform far better than the other kinds in moderate to warm temperatures (on dry pavement as well as in rain), but suck on snow and in frigid cold. Winter tires perform far better than the other kinds on snow and in frigid cold, but generally have a mushy ride when temperatures warm up. All-season tires are designed to handle a wider range of temperatures than either of those; they are a compromise, for people who want a better ride than winter tires in moderate to warm temperatures, but can handle an occasional snowstorm or cold spell. (Some people mistakenly think they need all-season tires to deal with rain, but in moderate to warm temperatures, good summer tires are better in rain than all-seasons.)
Depending on where you live, you may be able to live with the compromise of all-season tires, or to use summer tires all year round. If you live in an area with severe winters, you may be better off getting a spare set of wheels (even used wheels or steelies) so that you can enjoy the performance of winter tires (or all-seasons) in winter, and the performance of summer tires the rest of the year.
If you live in California and you never drive in snow or extreme cold, summer tires give you better performance than all-season tires.
If you need recommendations for winter tires or all-season tires, see this post. Otherwise, read on for recommendations for summer tires.
The big variables among summer tires (other than whether any particular tire is available in the size you need for your car) are performance on dry pavement, performance on wet pavement, price, and treadlife (how many miles the tires last). How much you care about each of these factors determines which tire best meets your needs.
If you ONLY care about the maximum performance on dry pavement, then get "extreme performance summer tires". These include:
Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec - 195/55-15
Toyo R1R - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16
Kumho XS - 205/50-15, 215/45-16
Bridgestone Potenza RE01R - 205/45-16
Falken Azenis RT-615 - 195/60-14, 205/50-15, 215/45-16, 205/40-17
On dry pavement, these are the stickiest street tires you can get. Downsides include so-so performance on wet pavement, somewhat high price, and very short treadlife (10-12K miles is typical for the Azenis). This is a particularly good choice if you sometimes take your car to the track or autocross.
If you want a balance of dry pavement performance, wet performance, and value (low purchase price and long treadlife, 25-40K miles), get an "ultra high performance summer tire". The best of these include:
Yokohama ES100 - 195/60-14
Yokohama S.drive - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16, 205/40-17
Kumho SPT (limited availability) - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16, 205/40-17
Fuzion ZRi - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16, 205/40-17
These offer very good dry performance, excellent performance in rain, and a bargain price ($60-70/tire for all of the above).
In moderate to warm temperatures, any of these summer tires will give you MUCH better performance than all-season tires like the Nitto Neogen or the Toyo Proxes 4. But if you have to use the same tires in snowy winter conditions as in warmer weather, then you need to get all-season tires (in which case the Kumho ASX is a better recommendation for 15" and larger wheels, and the Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS for 14").
Depending on where you live, you may be able to live with the compromise of all-season tires, or to use summer tires all year round. If you live in an area with severe winters, you may be better off getting a spare set of wheels (even used wheels or steelies) so that you can enjoy the performance of winter tires (or all-seasons) in winter, and the performance of summer tires the rest of the year.
If you live in California and you never drive in snow or extreme cold, summer tires give you better performance than all-season tires.
If you need recommendations for winter tires or all-season tires, see this post. Otherwise, read on for recommendations for summer tires.
The big variables among summer tires (other than whether any particular tire is available in the size you need for your car) are performance on dry pavement, performance on wet pavement, price, and treadlife (how many miles the tires last). How much you care about each of these factors determines which tire best meets your needs.
If you ONLY care about the maximum performance on dry pavement, then get "extreme performance summer tires". These include:
Dunlop Direzza Sport Z1 Star Spec - 195/55-15
Toyo R1R - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16
Kumho XS - 205/50-15, 215/45-16
Bridgestone Potenza RE01R - 205/45-16
Falken Azenis RT-615 - 195/60-14, 205/50-15, 215/45-16, 205/40-17
On dry pavement, these are the stickiest street tires you can get. Downsides include so-so performance on wet pavement, somewhat high price, and very short treadlife (10-12K miles is typical for the Azenis). This is a particularly good choice if you sometimes take your car to the track or autocross.
If you want a balance of dry pavement performance, wet performance, and value (low purchase price and long treadlife, 25-40K miles), get an "ultra high performance summer tire". The best of these include:
Yokohama ES100 - 195/60-14
Yokohama S.drive - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16, 205/40-17
Kumho SPT (limited availability) - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16, 205/40-17
Fuzion ZRi - 195/55-15, 205/50-15, 205/45-16, 205/40-17
These offer very good dry performance, excellent performance in rain, and a bargain price ($60-70/tire for all of the above).
In moderate to warm temperatures, any of these summer tires will give you MUCH better performance than all-season tires like the Nitto Neogen or the Toyo Proxes 4. But if you have to use the same tires in snowy winter conditions as in warmer weather, then you need to get all-season tires (in which case the Kumho ASX is a better recommendation for 15" and larger wheels, and the Bridgestone Potenza RE960AS for 14").
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
hahaha my dad thinks a 40K mile treadlife on a tire is short as hell and can't understand someone spending over $100/tire on something that only lasts that long. He expects 75K-100K miles on a set of tires costing $250
Regarding treadlife, though, in general all-season tires last a lot longer than summer tires. If you're willing to sacrifice some performance (both wet and dry) for longer treadlife, you might be better off getting all-season tires instead of summer tires, even if you never drive in snow.
Tires have a treadwear rating that isn't always accurate, especially when comparing tires between brands. But summer tires typically have a treadwear rating of anywhere from 140 to 300, whereas all-season tires typically have a treadwear rating from 350 to 500 or more. Theoretically, a tire with a treadwear rating of 400 will last twice as many miles as a tire with a treadwear rating of 200. As a practical matter, there are variations; for example, certain tires (*cough* Azenis *cough*) have a treadwear rating of 200 but, compared with other tires, have a treadlife that makes it seem that the rating really ought to be 100.
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
haha I know all that man, it's just funny how my dad and I think differently about tires.
He doesn't understand the concept of "performance" tires, and doesn't understand me putting "performance" tires on my car.
He doesn't understand the concept of "performance" tires, and doesn't understand me putting "performance" tires on my car.
That's why tire companies make different tires with different characteristics. Some tires are cheap to buy, some tires last a long time, some tires grip like mad on dry pavement, some tires grip well in rain, some tires grip well in snow, some tires are quiet, some tires are comfortable, etc. No tire does every single thing well; if there were such a tire, everyone would be buying the same tire.
Regarding treadlife, though, in general all-season tires last a lot longer than summer tires. If you're willing to sacrifice some performance (both wet and dry) for longer treadlife, you might be better off getting all-season tires instead of summer tires, even if you never drive in snow.
Tires have a treadwear rating that isn't always accurate, especially when comparing tires between brands. But summer tires typically have a treadwear rating of anywhere from 140 to 300, whereas all-season tires typically have a treadwear rating from 350 to 500 or more. Theoretically, a tire with a treadwear rating of 400 will last twice as many miles as a tire with a treadwear rating of 200. As a practical matter, there are variations; for example, certain tires (*cough* Azenis *cough*) have a treadwear rating of 200 but, compared with other tires, have a treadlife that makes it seem that the rating really ought to be 100.
Regarding treadlife, though, in general all-season tires last a lot longer than summer tires. If you're willing to sacrifice some performance (both wet and dry) for longer treadlife, you might be better off getting all-season tires instead of summer tires, even if you never drive in snow.
Tires have a treadwear rating that isn't always accurate, especially when comparing tires between brands. But summer tires typically have a treadwear rating of anywhere from 140 to 300, whereas all-season tires typically have a treadwear rating from 350 to 500 or more. Theoretically, a tire with a treadwear rating of 400 will last twice as many miles as a tire with a treadwear rating of 200. As a practical matter, there are variations; for example, certain tires (*cough* Azenis *cough*) have a treadwear rating of 200 but, compared with other tires, have a treadlife that makes it seem that the rating really ought to be 100.







