Need brakes soon on my DA, what to do?
I need new brakes soon on my DA. It's got 152k on it, and is mostly a DD. Right now I've got OEM rotors on it (they could likely use replacement, there's a pretty decent lip) and Axxis Ultimate pads. I've been quite happy with the current setup, but was wondering if there was anything comparable to try out. I mostly DD it, some backroad and AutoX too though.
I was thinking of maybe trying Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads, how would that compare to my current setup?
thanks
I was thinking of maybe trying Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS pads, how would that compare to my current setup?
thanks
Depends how serious you are into autox or circuit racing.
IF you haven't done it much I recommend some good pads, rotors and flush the brake fluid and use a better fluid.
IF you haven't done it much I recommend some good pads, rotors and flush the brake fluid and use a better fluid.
Not very serious. It needs to stay an acceptable DD.
I already flush the fluid at a minimum annually and usually every few months with Super Blue or ATE Gold (switch back and forth) and have braided lines. I'm just not sure what pads I should go with.
I already flush the fluid at a minimum annually and usually every few months with Super Blue or ATE Gold (switch back and forth) and have braided lines. I'm just not sure what pads I should go with.
check out some sites. i bought a set of front and rear cross-drilled/slotted rotors, pbr pads and ss brake lines for about $350 less than a year ago and the brake pedal has a much better feel and the rotors don't wear down as fast as oem rotors and don't warp as easily. flushed the brake fluid after install it stopped a whole lot better than it ever did before.
Absolutely NOT true.
The alleged reason for not using cross-drilled rotors is that they crack. But my experience has shown that that's BS.
I've tried cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars, and all three types lasted about the same number of track miles before ALL types eventually cracked. The cracks form in a radial direction. Yes, the cracks on cross-drilled rotors tended to form through the drill holes, but they didn't form any faster than on solid-faced rotors.
OTOH the cross-drilled and slotted didn't last any longer, either, so you may as well get the solid-face rotors, which are usually cheaper.
The one type of rotor that lasted longer with track use is two-piece rotors with flexible connecting hardware, which allow the outer "ring" of the rotor to expand with heat away from the inner "hat". But two-piece rotors are usually very expensive, and the extra lifespan is not enough to offset the extra cost.
The alleged reason for not using cross-drilled rotors is that they crack. But my experience has shown that that's BS.
I've tried cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars, and all three types lasted about the same number of track miles before ALL types eventually cracked. The cracks form in a radial direction. Yes, the cracks on cross-drilled rotors tended to form through the drill holes, but they didn't form any faster than on solid-faced rotors.
OTOH the cross-drilled and slotted didn't last any longer, either, so you may as well get the solid-face rotors, which are usually cheaper.
The one type of rotor that lasted longer with track use is two-piece rotors with flexible connecting hardware, which allow the outer "ring" of the rotor to expand with heat away from the inner "hat". But two-piece rotors are usually very expensive, and the extra lifespan is not enough to offset the extra cost.
Trending Topics
Absolutely NOT true.
The alleged reason for not using cross-drilled rotors is that they crack. But my experience has shown that that's BS.
I've tried cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars, and all three types lasted about the same number of track miles before ALL types eventually cracked. The cracks form in a radial direction. Yes, the cracks on cross-drilled rotors tended to form through the drill holes, but they didn't form any faster than on solid-faced rotors.
OTOH the cross-drilled and slotted didn't last any longer, either, so you may as well get the solid-face rotors, which are usually cheaper.
The one type of rotor that lasted longer with track use is two-piece rotors with flexible connecting hardware, which allow the outer "ring" of the rotor to expand with heat away from the inner "hat". But two-piece rotors are usually very expensive, and the extra lifespan is not enough to offset the extra cost.
The alleged reason for not using cross-drilled rotors is that they crack. But my experience has shown that that's BS.
I've tried cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars, and all three types lasted about the same number of track miles before ALL types eventually cracked. The cracks form in a radial direction. Yes, the cracks on cross-drilled rotors tended to form through the drill holes, but they didn't form any faster than on solid-faced rotors.
OTOH the cross-drilled and slotted didn't last any longer, either, so you may as well get the solid-face rotors, which are usually cheaper.
The one type of rotor that lasted longer with track use is two-piece rotors with flexible connecting hardware, which allow the outer "ring" of the rotor to expand with heat away from the inner "hat". But two-piece rotors are usually very expensive, and the extra lifespan is not enough to offset the extra cost.
Most stuff I've read had recommended against drilled rotors.
Absolutely NOT true.
The alleged reason for not using cross-drilled rotors is that they crack. But my experience has shown that that's BS.
I've tried cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars, and all three types lasted about the same number of track miles before ALL types eventually cracked. The cracks form in a radial direction. Yes, the cracks on cross-drilled rotors tended to form through the drill holes, but they didn't form any faster than on solid-faced rotors.
OTOH the cross-drilled and slotted didn't last any longer, either, so you may as well get the solid-face rotors, which are usually cheaper.
The one type of rotor that lasted longer with track use is two-piece rotors with flexible connecting hardware, which allow the outer "ring" of the rotor to expand with heat away from the inner "hat". But two-piece rotors are usually very expensive, and the extra lifespan is not enough to offset the extra cost.
The alleged reason for not using cross-drilled rotors is that they crack. But my experience has shown that that's BS.
I've tried cross-drilled rotors, slotted rotors, and solid-faced rotors on my heavily-tracked cars, and all three types lasted about the same number of track miles before ALL types eventually cracked. The cracks form in a radial direction. Yes, the cracks on cross-drilled rotors tended to form through the drill holes, but they didn't form any faster than on solid-faced rotors.
OTOH the cross-drilled and slotted didn't last any longer, either, so you may as well get the solid-face rotors, which are usually cheaper.
The one type of rotor that lasted longer with track use is two-piece rotors with flexible connecting hardware, which allow the outer "ring" of the rotor to expand with heat away from the inner "hat". But two-piece rotors are usually very expensive, and the extra lifespan is not enough to offset the extra cost.
I guess I'll go Brembo blanks and Hawk HPS this time, just to see what I think of them vs the Ultimates.
the hps are good also, i've driven on both and just buy whichever i can find cheaper when i need brakes. as far as rotors go, they are a throw away item. something cheap and true would be my vote.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
junkyard racer
Road Racing / Autocross & Time Attack
7
Sep 28, 2005 04:29 PM



