96 EX 2.2l Accord.

Here is the run down of the parts that have been replaced...

Radiator,
radiator cap,
thermostat,
upper+ lower radiator hoses,
Coolant Temperature sensor,
Coolant Temperature fan switch sensor (nearest the thermostat)
New coolant.

Removed air from cooling system

After about 20-30 minutes of driving the car will rise in temp when the vehicle slows for traffic.

One way to reduce the temps is by revving the motor.
also i noticed that the radiator fan still doesn't come on by itself....one way to get it to start moving is to turn on the AC.

But even with both fans running...the car will get hot....not nearly as fast, but still hot.

I bought the car used and I know it has a lot of miles (around 200K)

Could i have a FLOW problem? maybe there was use of a radiator stop leak and its causing the flow of coolant to slow down when the water pump isn't spinning fast?

I'm getting really tired of having to pull over to let the car cool.

 

If both fans don't move, have you considered the fan relays?

Last time water pump was replaced?

etc

 

When this happens, turn on the A/C and if the temp starts dropping down to normal then it could be your fan relay. Have you checked to see if your fans work at all? Try turning on your a/c and checking under the hood. Both fans should turn on if the temp is above I think it was 32 degrees outside.

Sounds like your radiator fan is not coming on causing you to overheat while not moving or moving slowly because there is no airflow cooling off the radiator.

 

maybe waterpump.....?

 

You have both relays and fuses that control the fans. The first thing I would do is check the fuses, then exchange a relay with the horn and see if the horn still works with the fan relay in its place. MAKE SURE THE RELAY"S ARE THE SAME PART NUMBER BEFORE YOU DO THIS. only use the same relay.
The only part of the cooling system you didn't mention replacing is the water pump. I have seen the water pumps turning on the outside but when you take it off of the side of the motor the inside that you can't see when on the motor either doesn't exist anymore due to rusting off over time or is broken and not turning on the inside moving the coolant/water in the inside of the motor.

Another thing you can do if you need to drive it and not overheat is to turn on your heater while you drive. That will help the water/coolant flow through the system so you can still drive it.

Have you checked your radiator cap? how is the seal?

 

yep, driving with the heat on FTW

 

these cars also have what is called a fan timer besides the two relays very common to go bad at the dealership.

If someone had changed the original one with an aftermarket or reman unit. I have seen the propeller come off the pump so no coolant flow.

 

get a new car

 

In this chart there is a test of grounding the green wire with the key on.
Here's a link for better viewing ;
http://img231.imageshack.us/img231/2...lmodulehr4.gif

 

i have a sneaking suspicion that it might be the waterpump.

I dont know when the water pump was last replaced as i just bought the car back in june.

Is there any way i can test for a bad waterpump?

 

No one mentioned the temp sensors that tell the relays to come on. No one mentioned to drill a hole in the thermostat to assist with air bleeding out of the block in case the thermostat is not opening (air locked).

 

yeah

hook up a flow-rate meter to the upper radiator hose and teh rad itself, run it like normal... then compare yo dataz to what a well-behaved car does


thats how i would do it

but yaaa, as far as i know noone has such dataz to compare yours to, and i dont really know of any meters you can hook up either



maybe get like a 5gallon bucket, or something huge like that and put the lower radiator hose in it and make it chug all da water, see how long it takes and have someone else shut it off before it gets to the air, air bubbles in coolant=bad



again, same problem who the hell knows what kinda numbers you are supposed to be getting!!!

but, umm yeah good luck if you decide to replace water pump too, its a bitch aint it

 

ans arent comeing on, could be fuses relays and or the actual fan motors. if you give the fan motor a nice tap with an extension it may come on. are you losing coolant at all? is there alot of air coming out of the radiator when cycling and revving? have you pressure tested the system at all? are your heater core hoses leaking? also there are tests you can do to check your sensors and your thermostat. i Know you said you replaced the thermostat but they can be bad from the manufacturer, ive seen it before. there are still alot of things you can check.

 

i have been noticing a gurgling sound coming from the dash. I'm assuming its the heater core.

No fluids seem to be leaking from the heater core.

I have also attempted to remove the from the cooling system a couple of times.

about a month ago i had the cooling system checked, and the head gasket checked to see if it was leaking. Both came back ok. The mechanic said he couldn't guarantee that the head gasket was ok...possiblity of a small leak, but the test they ran seem to indicate it was ok.

 

Check the fan timer it is a very common problem on these cars. also check the thermo switch in the thermostat housing.

 

2 things I would do

1) just hard wire the fans on all the time and see if the car still over heats. If it does then the fans are most likely fine.

2) If I bought a Honda with 200k and I didn't know when the water pump and timing belt had been changed - ie the previous owner provided me with a receipt from a repair shop - I would do that work immediately. Based on the problems you are having, I would say that a $25 water pump and an afternoon of your time makes it a worthwhile investment.

 

*update

I havent been able to work my my car because of work.
I havent had much time to do a whole waterpump..plus i feel i havent deducted all the other problems there might be besides a bad waterpump.

SO today i checked the Fan Control relay (under the hood, near the passenger firewall)..i swapped it for the power window relay which is the same as the fan control relay.

The windows work fine..and the radiator fan still fails to come on.

Only thing i still have to check/replace is the "Engine Coolant Temperature Switch B" , the fan timer, and the fan control module.

I replaced "Engine Coolant Temperature Switch A" with a part from a local parts store, but they didnt have one for the front switch (A).

I ordered one up from Honda ($64)

I really dont have the time and the space to do the waterpump...nor the money....but i also hate throwing parts at the car.

 

You have both a fan timer control and a fan control module? Anyways, the temp switch "B" is for when the engine gets really hot and it is wired directly to the Control Module. Temp switch "A" turns on the radiator fan, temp switch "B" turns on both fans.

Hondadude has the pic above for that.