Headstuds
Ive been using a set of ARP headstuds for about 2 years only about 5k on the motor. Would it be ok to reuse them on another setup ? Or are they junk after i tear it down ?
Bolts lose strenght every time you tighten them. If you have a reason for running ARP studs, I would replace them. I.E. forced induction or high compression. Just my opinion, but losing strenght is a fact. That's why when you build an engine, good engine builders don't torque the bolts to spec, which is the material yield point, until the fasterner will be permanent and not removed again for the reason of inspecting bearing clearance and what not.
You don't need to torque the bolt to yeild point. 65% of reccomended torque is what I use. Trust me, it won't affect your measurement. I want to say the bolt loses 20% of it's strenght after it's been torqued to spec the first time, it's in my engineering book, I'm too lazy to look it up to be 100% sure.
Torque your rods to 65% of rated for your fasteners and measure the ID with a bore gauge. Then torque the bolts to spec and if you won't have 1um difference which won't effect your tolerance. Other than that, check rod bolts using a strech gauge if you have one.
Torque your rods to 65% of rated for your fasteners and measure the ID with a bore gauge. Then torque the bolts to spec and if you won't have 1um difference which won't effect your tolerance. Other than that, check rod bolts using a strech gauge if you have one.
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I blew my HG a little while ago and am about to pull my head and get some work done. The Helm's doesn't say anything about replacing the head studs, but is this recommended? Motor has about 150k on it. If replacing, are ARP's worth it on a mild NA build (stock compression)?
Ah, my mistake. ARP warns in general of clearance issues installing the head in car when using studs (hence the use of bolts in many cases). Has anyone run into this before? Assuming no clearance issues, studs would be a better alternative to bolts, correct?
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