i currently have 24.5x8x14'' slicks. i run them at pretty low pressure, so i get "full" tire contact.

is having 2.5 degrees (or so) of camber really going to be hurting me that much?

i am debating what to do with the suspension for next year.......

car can (and has , with my crap driving) cut a few 1.7 60 fts...and does 1.8s all day....

runs 11.5/11.6's all day long , at 126 MPH. with weight reduction and driver training, i want it to run 10s all day.

 

anybody have any before-after results or opinions?

the main reason i'm curious is i also auto-x the car/road course the car, and i'd like to run at the same setup if people think its a moot point

 

camber is real important in both types of racing, second you can break axles with bad camber lunches.

 

It all depends on how your car reacts, it is really tough to say without knowing more about the chassis setup.

 

camber doesnt mean anything to this guy!! haha



in all seriousness....ive seen pretty substantial gains by doing a good alignment.

 

my alignment is perfect at 0

struts are koni yellows, set at full stiff

spring will be 450lb front, 600 lb rear

car weights about 2500 with driver in it

 

Didnt you just say you had 2.5 degrees? Or is that what you want so you can go back and forth?

Also remember the car lifts the front end, changing things around a bit. That is if you wanted to get really picky lol

I can help ya with suspension and such if you'd like, that spring in the rear isn't going to do much for ya. I'd set that stuff for auto-x and get the cheaper off the shelf drag Progress and switch it out.

 

i hate when people have civics with camber like that with stupid offset wheels LOL, that Lexus looks like it wants to cry.

 

Joe, where did you see me? thats my new car.. lol

 

camber is part of your alignment too
do you raise your front when mounting your slicks?
camber/toe adjustments are easy to do at the strip (10 min)

for good contact patch, video your launch, look at how much your frontend raises. make sure it's at 0 degr camber there. camber when standing still is much less important...

 

311whp GSR with bad alignment, 22" slicks, and soft suspension landed me with 1.79-1.85's
I switched things up a bit and dialed my alignment in for drag, 23" slicks, and drag suspension has netted me consistant 1.69-1.71 60's. I do think it helps a ton.

 

In my experience, drag slicks are EXTREMELY sensitive to camber. I've seen gains changing from 0.25deg camber to 0deg camber. That was back on 26" slicks, but shorter slicks will probably be even more sensitive.

Kevin

 

I think the negative camber is hurting more than you think. I was playing around with ride height and when i got to the point of coming closer to 0 camber, my 60fts when from high 1.8's to low 1.6's with 22 inch slicks on a 2500lbs w/o driver 4dr...

 

I cut 2 tenths off my time by getting a camber kit and just eyeballing it before I went to the track. But this was running at night, rather than the day so that might be part of it too.

 

The more negative camber, your car will be much more "twitchy", thats tuns of fun on a road course where you have a dynamic contact patch.

BUT remember if you do a alignment, ideally you really should measure how much travel you have in the front under a full launch and do the alignment with the car raised to the maximum amount of front lift (simulating a launch). Although this requires pretty awesome datalogging and ride height sensors and stuff.

If you dont have this, just try and make an educated guess about how much lift your car will have under a launch and do the camber set up there.