Traction Bar
Hey H/T i wanted to get some information on traction bars like what is the point of them why do i need one and if you guys recomended for a daily driver. Thanks for the help
Well i have 1994 dc4 this is my suspension setup
D2 36 way adjustable coilovers
ASR 24mm sway bar and subframe
Blox lower control arms
Buddy Club Camber kits
Benen b pillar
Jays racing c pillar
megan racing trunk strut bar
Mugen front strut bar
Megan H brace
When it comes to performance i have
ferera flat bottom valves. And the rest off the valve train is Supertech with dc 4 to 1 headers and injen cold air intake aem power pulleys T1r 63mm exsaust with T1r test pipe thats my set up
D2 36 way adjustable coilovers
ASR 24mm sway bar and subframe
Blox lower control arms
Buddy Club Camber kits
Benen b pillar
Jays racing c pillar
megan racing trunk strut bar
Mugen front strut bar
Megan H brace
When it comes to performance i have
ferera flat bottom valves. And the rest off the valve train is Supertech with dc 4 to 1 headers and injen cold air intake aem power pulleys T1r 63mm exsaust with T1r test pipe thats my set up
Traction bars help you with your launches by preventing wheel hop.You don't need a traction bar.Your not making enough power to need one since the only engine mod you have is the valvetrain.
Well i have 1994 dc4 this is my suspension setup
D2 36 way adjustable coilovers
ASR 24mm sway bar and subframe
Blox lower control arms
Buddy Club Camber kits
Benen b pillar
Jays racing c pillar
megan racing trunk strut bar
Mugen front strut bar
Megan H brace
When it comes to performance i have
ferera flat bottom valves. And the rest off the valve train is Supertech with dc 4 to 1 headers and injen cold air intake aem power pulleys T1r 63mm exsaust with T1r test pipe thats my set up
D2 36 way adjustable coilovers
ASR 24mm sway bar and subframe
Blox lower control arms
Buddy Club Camber kits
Benen b pillar
Jays racing c pillar
megan racing trunk strut bar
Mugen front strut bar
Megan H brace
When it comes to performance i have
ferera flat bottom valves. And the rest off the valve train is Supertech with dc 4 to 1 headers and injen cold air intake aem power pulleys T1r 63mm exsaust with T1r test pipe thats my set up
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I got all theese parts At http://www.speedstar-racing.com/store/catalog/ or 408-306-8383 wayne he will hook you up
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I have heard that traction bars can help the car feel more stable in all driving conditions, even on the street, like during lane changes and such.
Just whatever you do, make sure you do research and get bars that are designed with the correct geometry to prevent the traction bars from binding as the suspension moves up and down. That means that the point where the traction bar mounts to the cross bar much be directly inline with both inner bolts of the lower control arm. If it is not properly aligned, the traction bars can bind, and/or they can alter your caster as the suspension moves up and down, which should NEVER happen.
Just whatever you do, make sure you do research and get bars that are designed with the correct geometry to prevent the traction bars from binding as the suspension moves up and down. That means that the point where the traction bar mounts to the cross bar much be directly inline with both inner bolts of the lower control arm. If it is not properly aligned, the traction bars can bind, and/or they can alter your caster as the suspension moves up and down, which should NEVER happen.
Are you just trying too add every bar possible onto your car? Kinda seems that way...
You should get that do-luck brace that goes on the floor behind the front seats, and a bolt in cage too while your at it.
I would look into engery suspension bushings for your torque mounts first. I noticed a huge improved in start up, wheel hop, and engine movement in replacing the two front ones alone. The rear one shook the car too much, and I took it out later....something to look into...
You should get that do-luck brace that goes on the floor behind the front seats, and a bolt in cage too while your at it.
I would look into engery suspension bushings for your torque mounts first. I noticed a huge improved in start up, wheel hop, and engine movement in replacing the two front ones alone. The rear one shook the car too much, and I took it out later....something to look into...
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 29,969
Likes: 59
From: Nowhere and Everywhere
I had only the front 2 torque mount ES inserts and the whole car vibrates like CRAZY at idle. Just a heads up if you plan on looking into that.
I took them out and now have brand new OEM rubber torque mounts and rear mount (all 3 original ones were torn when I had the ES inserts in the torque mounts).
I took them out and now have brand new OEM rubber torque mounts and rear mount (all 3 original ones were torn when I had the ES inserts in the torque mounts).
Its always a good idea to make sure all suspension related bushings are in good working condition, and nothing is worn out. I have heard mixed reviews on the energy motor mount inserts. Some say they vibrate too much, others say they are awesome, it sounds like it just boils down to a matter of opinion. I would do as much research as you can before you buy a traction bar, but have heard a lot of good things about them, as long as you buy one that has good engineering built into it.
I had only the front 2 torque mount ES inserts and the whole car vibrates like CRAZY at idle. Just a heads up if you plan on looking into that.
I took them out and now have brand new OEM rubber torque mounts and rear mount (all 3 original ones were torn when I had the ES inserts in the torque mounts).
I took them out and now have brand new OEM rubber torque mounts and rear mount (all 3 original ones were torn when I had the ES inserts in the torque mounts).
I'd say you there is no need for you to run a traction bar as you have a stock motor.
Essentially a traction bar makes the front end more rigid and corrects wheel hop when drag racing. Traction bars also provide more points of adjustment over stock suspension and cross member.
I'd say go with Full-Race on this one, you don't want to run a cheap knock off as this is a critical piece to your front suspension.
Essentially a traction bar makes the front end more rigid and corrects wheel hop when drag racing. Traction bars also provide more points of adjustment over stock suspension and cross member.
I'd say go with Full-Race on this one, you don't want to run a cheap knock off as this is a critical piece to your front suspension.
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