im an eg forum freak and new to this room so this question prolly been brought up **** loads times but anyways where would be the best to tap a kill switch?

 

there was a thread a little while ago. most ppl say either the ignition or the fuel pump.

 

The best place I've seen was inside the dash.
Or the place right under the gauge cover, there is a thin slot.
Only a really thin card can activate the kill switch.
Installing kill switch is really limited to your imagination.
Think of a place where thiefs won't go there.
I was thinking of whether you can install 2 kill switches. Meaning one must be activated first, then the "real" one can be activated. Then that would be a great kill switch. Frustrating those f@cking thiefs are the most entertaining thing...

 

Give me your address, vin number, license number and i'll tell you. Naw j/k man. Use your imagination and find a place to hide it.

 

what????

 

Get an installer that does killer work, have him/her put in an alarm with a back up batt, and back up siren. but make sure the installer is good and wont just stick the alarm brain in plain view... Also be sure that all the wires are solder, tapped, and wrapped to make it discrete using split loom or tape (whatever is consistant under your dash). Not the yellow split loom either (to make it look like ABS wire), that trick is old and useless.

Denny

 

basicaly the whole thing. im new to working with electric stuff.

 

basicaly can you just explain your post from above in "retard" terms. and do we really have to do all that for a kill switch? or is that the most reliable and fail safe way of doing it. thanks alot

 

teken is the man.

 

hell yea he is ..thanks alot, i think im understanding it. im gonna read it over again, whered you learn all this stuff?

 

Here's a useful thread:
https://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=228303&page=1

Here's a useful link to purchase BOSCH relays/wiring harnesses:
http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/showp...ectGroup_ID=31

I still have growing respect for Teken, this post shows true colors:

 

i have a question for you guys. i have made up a generic schematic and would like some opinions as to what route i should go.

here is the schematic:


first, i would like to kill the starter. from my understanding the starter circuit is closed only when starting the car (3rd key postion). after that it is open. is that correct?

second, i think Option B might be the safer route since the starter circuit is high current. i am not sure exactly how high current the starter circuit is, though. does anyone know the starter circuit current?

third, will option B even work right?

ok, that's all for now. i look forward to your feedback.

thanks.


[Modified by breaka_1_9, 1:06 PM 8/7/2002]

 

cant see your image....

 

I think you have the connections confused:

30 feeds either 87 or 87A (depending on if current is/is not flowing through 86 + 85.

86 and 85 are used to actuate 30->87 (or disengage 30->87A).

LASTLY if you have a manual transmission, anyone can still push-start your car.
So utilize "layers" to diable injectors, fuel pump, etc.

If there is any clean-up needed in my post, let me know (Teken). I will be happy to correct any mistakes.

 

Just to cover all of the bases. . . .

If you have two devices tha need an (EITHER) configuration, you can use 87 and 87A to ground through 30, instead of using 30 as the (+) supply. Same functionality either way, just a different approach.




[Modified by WOTTEG, 4:16 PM 8/7/2002]

 

option b in his image wouldnt work right? he would want to use the push button switch on the wire coming out of 85 correct? im just trying to see if i understand switches/relays.


[Modified by illusion, 9:22 PM 8/7/2002]

 

teken, the one thing i don't understand is why you hook up pin 85 of relay1 and pin 87 of relay 2 to pin 85 of relay 2.

i would think when you turn on the ignition, relay 1 would be turned on, then the remote device of choice would power up relay 2.

why you have the remote device wired to powe relays is confusing me.

thanks.

 

illusion, i think you are right. i would want to kill the power wire going to the relay, not the input/output signal from the relay.

 

bump

 

<-- passed out, got numbers flowing in my head, 85, 87, 30.....
new to HT and amazed by everybody's skill!!

 

Check this out for more info :

http://www.geocities.com/ginofultano/killswitch

 

good info

 

This is gonna sound really stupid. but in order for the fuel pump to turn on, doesnt the key have to be in the ignition??
cause u cant push start a car if the key isn't in there, unless u hot wire it.
so whats really the point of this switch? just to stop the fuel pump from kicking in if someone tries to hot-wire your car??

 

what did you think it was for?

 

now that i read my post, i dont have a clue what I was talking about. lol.
At the time i was writting the post, i was thinking that the switch would be to disable the fuel pump if someone tried push, starting your car. but then I started thinking that you can't push start the car without keys without hot-wiring.
so now I have no idea what I was trying to say, the switch will stop the fuel pump even if the car is hot wired.
it all makes sense to me know, just at 11:00 this morning, i was really confused